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Lucas grease for wheel bearings.. anyone using it?

Started by 1340evo, October 22, 2021, 10:23:32 AM

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1340evo

So, new bearings inserted, new tube cut to give .004" clearance, so now I have to grease it...
I have Lucas X-tra heavy duty or the Lucas Red N Tacky... anyone used this on HD wheel bearings at all... Reading the reports it sounds better that just Lithium grease.. Any thoughts

kd

I use the Red n Tacky with excellent results.  The stringing quality keeps the rollers well lubed.  FWIW, for 50 years I have always loaded the hub (on autos, trucks and motorcycles) to a depth that centrifugal force keeps a constant feed at the inner face of the bearing.  Otherwise the bearing can get depleted of lube over time.  The grease seal is plenty robust to retain the lube and it prevents ingress of water at the seal surface due to the Red N Tacky surface tension.
KD

1340evo

Quote from: kd on October 22, 2021, 02:11:31 PM
I use the Red n Tacky with excellent results.  The stringing quality keeps the rollers well lubed.  FWIW, for 50 years I have always loaded the hub (on autos, trucks and motorcycles) to a depth that centrifugal force keeps a constant feed at the inner face of the bearing.  Otherwise the bearing can get depleted of lube over time.  The grease seal is plenty robust to retain the lube and it prevents ingress of water at the seal surface due to the Red N Tacky surface tension.

Just been reading this... it supports Red N Tacky as you go through, but then concludes the other is the best.. so still not 100%. Reading this would you still go the same way?

https://carcarelab.com/lucas-xtra-heavy-duty-grease-vs-red-n-tacky/

motorhogman

Quote from: 1340evo on October 22, 2021, 03:17:02 PM
Quote from: kd on October 22, 2021, 02:11:31 PM
I use the Red n Tacky with excellent results.  The stringing quality keeps the rollers well lubed.  FWIW, for 50 years I have always loaded the hub (on autos, trucks and motorcycles) to a depth that centrifugal force keeps a constant feed at the inner face of the bearing.  Otherwise the bearing can get depleted of lube over time.  The grease seal is plenty robust to retain the lube and it prevents ingress of water at the seal surface due to the Red N Tacky surface tension.

Just been reading this... it supports Red N Tacky as you go through, but then concludes the other is the best.. so still not 100%. Reading this would you still go the same way?

https://carcarelab.com/lucas-xtra-heavy-duty-grease-vs-red-n-tacky/

If you pack the hubs and repack the bearings on a schedule it just about doesn't matter what you use as long as it's quality.  Sometimes we over think these things.  I know I sure do. I had about 250,000 mi on my 73 Superglide when I sold it  :banghead: and used every brand of bearing grease imaginable.  Never had a wheel bearing go bad in 28 years.
where's the points and condenser ?<br />Tom / aka motor

1340evo

So are you fully filling the hub and bearing?.. I thought you had to leave some space for expansion and so it don't cavitate in there... Thinking back I kind of remember 80% fill ??

Deye76

motorhogman,
My Man, dang near like a oil thread. You're right on, doesn't matter the brand. Heck I still have a tub of Wolf's Head (collectors item by now) I use on the tapered bearings in my FXR. Think I bought it in 1975, never had a wheel bearing go bad until the so called sealed bearings came out. Every tire change the tapered bearings get serviced. Oh and using the same hand wheel bearing packer since then too.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

1340evo

Quote from: Deye76 on October 22, 2021, 05:36:35 PM
motorhogman,
My Man, dang near like a oil thread. You're right on, doesn't matter the brand. Heck I still have a tub of Wolf's Head (collectors item by now) I use on the tapered bearings in my FXR. Think I bought it in 1975, never had a wheel bearing go bad until the so called sealed bearings came out. Every tire change the tapered bearings get serviced. Oh and using the same hand wheel bearing packer since then too.

Not quite, grease can melt out if you get it too hot, also can form solids... Oil's just oil  :wink:

motorhogman

Quote from: 1340evo on October 22, 2021, 04:00:14 PM
So are you fully filling the hub and bearing?.. I thought you had to leave some space for expansion and so it don't cavitate in there... Thinking back I kind of remember 80% fill ??

I just pack the bearings and fill the hub to the point where it's at the axle diameter. Been doing it that way for ever. Just did the seals and packed the tapered bearings on my utility trailer the same way. 
where's the points and condenser ?<br />Tom / aka motor

Deye76

#8
Not quite, grease can melt out if you get it too hot, also can form solids... Oil's just oil  :wink:
What are you talking about? I'm referring to Wolf's Head for wheel bearings, Definitely  not oil. The only way the bearings get that hot is without lube.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

1340evo

Quote from: Deye76 on October 23, 2021, 09:15:48 AM
Not quite, grease can melt out if you get it too hot, also can form solids... Oil's just oil  :wink:
What are you talking about? I'm referring to Wolf's Head for wheel bearings, Definitely  not oil. The only way the bearings get that hot is without lube.

My Man, dang near like a oil thread   :oil: :oil: :oil:

Deye76

East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

kd

Quote from: 1340evo on October 22, 2021, 03:17:02 PM
Quote from: kd on October 22, 2021, 02:11:31 PM
I use the Red n Tacky with excellent results.  The stringing quality keeps the rollers well lubed.  FWIW, for 50 years I have always loaded the hub (on autos, trucks and motorcycles) to a depth that centrifugal force keeps a constant feed at the inner face of the bearing.  Otherwise the bearing can get depleted of lube over time.  The grease seal is plenty robust to retain the lube and it prevents ingress of water at the seal surface due to the Red N Tacky surface tension.

Just been reading this... it supports Red N Tacky as you go through, but then concludes the other is the best.. so still not 100%. Reading this would you still go the same way?

https://carcarelab.com/lucas-xtra-heavy-duty-grease-vs-red-n-tacky/

Quote from: 1340evo on October 22, 2021, 04:00:14 PM
So are you fully filling the hub and bearing?.. I thought you had to leave some space for expansion and so it don't cavitate in there... Thinking back I kind of remember 80% fill ??

To be clear, I have used many different greases but prefer one that when a dollop is placed between my fingers will string out when the fingers are slowly pulled apart.  I do not use the light moly type because I want it to stay in place when hot.  I like the fact a stringy grease will "pull" a serving away from the supply.  I have just recently started to use the Red N Tacky because I like the adhesion but would not shun any lube with similar qualities..

Having said all that, I do not fully pack the hub.  I clean the cavity meticulously, scoop out a supply in my hand and push it evenly around the inside of the hub to a level equal to where the bearing cup height is.  My reasons are simple. A hub that is empty makes a large cavity.  It is like a lung. When it is warmed up and the air gets warm it expands and exhausts air as the wheel rotates and the bearing play momentarily loosens the seal contact. Then as it is cooled the air shrinks and pulls in external air that can be and often is moist. (this is the same way your fuel tank pulls in damp air as it cools in the evening)  The moisture can form on the rollers (those black stains when stored) and or in the hub walls and cause corrosion.  Have you ever cleaned a hub and found scale?  If the hub has a layer of lube, as it warms up and gets softer the centrifugal force of the spinning wheel evenly layers the hub to a depth of the bearing cup and cone contact area.  It seals and protects the hub.  The lube will move up and into the bearing surface keeping fresh lube available at the bearing face.  This is what "Bearing Buddies" do.  I have used this method for over 50 years (well before Bearing Buddies) on every thing from highway tractors and trailers (before oil fed hubs), equipment and many other vehicles.  I still use it on me 2 personal 98 touring bikes..
KD

Ohio HD


kd

Quote from: Ohio HD on October 23, 2021, 08:02:05 PM
I think these guys know bearings and grease.        :scoot:


WE KNOW GREASE

Interesting information.  It targets the real problems.  I think I'll get a tube to check it out.

FWIW I used to service the highway weigh scales (before load cell platforms) and the grease I used in the bearing sockets that kept the platform live and non binding was white lithium inclusive grease that dissolved or emulsified the water into the grease so it wouldn't pool and cause corrosion. This grease would thin out in the dissolved water / grease mixture but still remain serviceable as a lube.  It appears most lithium now contained greases are repellant to prevent water from pooling and corroding bearing surfaces.
KD

98fxstc

#14
some interesting reading here, results of testing at post#23

'Wheel Bearing Grease' from HDForums

1340evo

Quote from: Deye76 on October 23, 2021, 02:07:33 PM
A bit thin skinned eh?

Not at all, its an interesting subject and something you're best getting right if you want to keep the scoots rolling. I've worked in Aerospace and they spend huge amounts on testing grease for the correct aplication. Ignorance is bliss I agree, but with people like KD on here who's obviously been there and done it, why would you not want to discuss on the forum?

Many thanks KD for your in deth reply. It's red N sticky all the way and done as you say above. When I re-made my bearing spacer in the wheel to the correct length, I put grommets on the outside to centralise in the hub. These actualy seal against the hub ID so the amount of grease required will be a lot less anyway although I may still fill it  :up:

capn

Just like everything else good grease can be hard to find.Lucas seems OK.Tractor Supply has red n tacky type but I suspect its foreign made.

Hossamania

My small tub of bearing grease must be at least 40 years old, some type of blue/green. Somehow I also inherited a small tub of red years ago. I don't pack a lot of bearings, though the boat and utility trailers are probably due. But it's still nice enough to go for a ride, so maybe next year.....
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Buglet

  Being using B G  SS2000 grease for the last 25 yrs. Bearings are service every 40 k, the grease is just as clean as when it goes in. This is on a Hack so the bearing do get a workout.     

Deye76

"I've worked in Aerospace and they spend huge amounts on testing grease for the correct aplication. "
Then you should know "what's the best".
All of this "science" on bearing grease and hubs is of no consequence with sealed bearings. Up until Harley started using sealed bearings, thousands of riders packed bearings with no failures. As I stated earlier, I never had a bearing failure, ever. Not on my bikes or cars before sealed bearings. Some in excess of 100,000 miles. Dating back to the 1960's when grease science didn't exist. I'm not trying to prevent your discussion, it was a tongue in cheek comment that many others post in one form or another, in every "what's the best" thread in the entire forum. I like your passion, but doubt if done at adequate intervals, that you will have a failure based on they type of bearing grease. Peace.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

1340evo

Quote from: Deye76 on October 24, 2021, 09:41:14 AM
"I've worked in Aerospace and they spend huge amounts on testing grease for the correct aplication. "
Then you should know "what's the best".
All of this "science" on bearing grease and hubs is of no consequence with sealed bearings. Up until Harley started using sealed bearings, thousands of riders packed bearings with no failures. As I stated earlier, I never had a bearing failure, ever. Not on my bikes or cars before sealed bearings. Some in excess of 100,000 miles. Dating back to the 1960's when grease science didn't exist. I'm not trying to prevent your discussion, it was a tongue in cheek comment that many others post in one form or another, in every "what's the best" thread in the entire forum. I like your passion, but doubt if done at adequate intervals, that you will have a failure based on they type of bearing grease. Peace.

I didn't work in the test labs, but know they tested all kinds of grease for best application. Wing flap and undercarage actuation does require something special. think I still have a tube here but will be a bit out of date now.
Lucas red n sticky will do the job I'm sure....

JW113

This thread smells a bit like solving a non-problem to me. But, that said...

I've been using Sta-Lube waterproof wheel bearing grease for, um, years. Why? I figure grease that's designed for 4x4s and boat trailers that the axles get submerged in water, and still lubricates must be good. Proof it's great for motorcycle wheels? Nope. Never had one fail, for what that's worth, and nothing I even remotely worry about.

cheers,
JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Hillside Motorcycle

Use a good quality grease, pack them correctly, set the load as per, and move on to something like mowing the lawn...not rocket surgery.
Carry on.
Otto Knowbetter sez, "Even a fish wouldn't get caught if he kept his mouth shut"