New build - need help with CV40 carb set up please

[Don D]

What, if any mods were done to the carb before the build? I think you may have a big air leak and the only way to keep it running is with the enrichener out full. The plugs look stinking rich and that is not a way to break in a new motor. Check the spark and if cranking with the one plugs body grounded, both out, produces a fat red spark move on to the carb for troubleshooting. What intake seals were used? What intake flanges were used?

[02fxst]

  Did you use the the new style intake flanges 26993-06 for the 2009 heads on your 2002?

[Adam76]

What, if any mods were done to the carb before the build?

Thanks for the reply,
when I rebuilt the carb, the bike was running ok with no carb issues. I replace the  keihin pilot 45 and main 190 with 46 and 195. I replaced the stock needle with the CV Performance needle. No other mods were noted the slide was not drilled. 

I think you may have a big air leak and the only way to keep it running is with the enrichener out full. The plugs look stinking rich and that is not a way to break in a new motor.

100% agree with you.

Check the spark and if cranking with the one plugs body grounded, both out, produces a fat red spark move on to the carb for troubleshooting.

Yes, this is what I will do next

What intake seals were used?
What intake flanges were used?

The grass were of an '09 Heritage  - so I used the '09 intake flanges and the rubber seals that they use. I also used a new intake to carb seal. I can't imagine where the big leak is - unless it is the carb diaphragm not seated properly inside the carb.

[Adam76]

  Did you use the the new style intake flanges 26993-06 for the 2009 heads on your 2002?

Yep used the later model flanges. 👍

[Adam76]

I took the carb off and opened it up again and i think I've found my problem ....

I had the needle (6) installed on top of the plastic spring seat (5) instead of below it. This effectively means my needle was way up and causing a super rich condition.

I'm going to put it back together and see what happens.

Cheers

[Adam76]

GOT IT !!

Such a small rookie error.

Thanks to all who gave me advice and put up with my novice understanding.

 

[Don D]

Makes sense, glad to hear you got it fixed.

[Hossamania]

5/5 on the ignition is the stock setting, it may cause detonation as you go forward. It should work fine for break in as you are not putting a hard load on the motor. Mine is running 1/2 now.

[Adam76]

Makes sense, glad to hear you got it fixed.

Thanks 👍

I took it out for a 50 mile break in run. It seemed smooth and strong, but about half way through I noticed a bit a white smoke coming out the pipes.

So I pulled the plugs when I got home -- Front was very light,  and the rear was still a little too dark.

My DTT was set at multi spark and 5 / 5 on the dials.

I'm assuming the front cylinder is too lean, but how did you fix that if
the rear is running already too rich??

Should I go up a size in my pilot jet to 48?

Thanks again

[Adam76]

5/5 on the ignition is the stock setting, it may cause detonation as you go forward. It should work fine for break in as you are not putting a hard load on the motor. Mine is running 1/2 now.

Thanks Hoss, I started on 5 / 5 for the 50 mile break in run, I didn't exactly baby it is you know what I mean... but I couldn't hear or feel any detonation. Then again I suppose you don't always hear it, and my motor is not stock? So I'm looking for a better setting. Maybe 2 / 5 ?
Cheers

[Hossamania]

Tough call on the settings without putting some stress on the motor, but 2/2 or 2/3 would probably work fine. 2/5 brings the timing in a little quick, may be a little too much on your modified motor, but hard to say without a dyno, or at least some hard riding. If you didn't hear obvious pinging, it's probably fine though.
As far as the plugs, make sure your plug wires are good and tight at the plugs and coil, and not touching anything that could short them.
With 50 miles on it, it is pretty much broken in, Hopefully you occasionally ran up and down in gear to put "reverse" pressure on the rings to help seat them.
Change oil, change plugs, and head back out. Pull the plugs after a short ride and read them again. If that rear one keeps getting exceptionally dark, it may need a compression test as long as all electrical elements are ruled out. Front one looked ok, rear was fuzzy picture.
How did it run? Feel strong, smoothe?

[Adam76]

Tough call on the settings without putting some stress on the motor, but 2/2 or 2/3 would probably work fine. 2/5 brings the timing in a little quick, may be a little too much on your modified motor, but hard to say without a dyno, or at least some hard riding. If you didn't hear obvious pinging, it's probably fine though.
As far as the plugs, make sure your plug wires are good and tight at the plugs and coil, and not touching anything that could short them.
With 50 miles on it, it is pretty much broken in, Hopefully you occasionally ran up and down in gear to put "reverse" pressure on the rings to help seat them.
Change oil, change plugs, and head back out. Pull the plugs after a short ride and read them again. If that rear one keeps getting exceptionally dark, it may need a compression test as long as all electrical elements are ruled out. Front one looked ok, rear was fuzzy picture.
How did it run? Feel strong, smoothe?

Thanks Hoss, plug wires are new and yes it ran smooth and strong which is why I was really surprised at the smoke. I was also surprised by the dark / fouled rear plug and the almost too lean front plug.

I'll try a new set of plugs and 2 / 3 settings for ignition and go for another ride.

Could it be an intake leak?

Cheers

[Hossamania]

You can spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals while idling, listen for a change in idle indicating a leak. Doesnt take a lot of spray. Don't be fooled by spray being sucked into the carb rather than the seals.
If no leak, or no conclusion from overthinking, change oil, change plugs, ride.

[Adam76]

You can spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals while idling, listen for a change in idle indicating a leak. Doesnt take a lot of spray. Don't be fooled by spray being sucked into the carb rather than the seals.
If no leak, or no conclusion from overthinking, change oil, change plugs, ride.

👍 thanks

[Adam76]

You can spray some carb cleaner around the intake seals while idling, listen for a change in idle indicating a leak. Doesnt take a lot of spray. Don't be fooled by spray being sucked into the carb rather than the seals.
If no leak, or no conclusion from overthinking, change oil, change plugs, ride.

Thanks Hoss, I changed the plugs and oil and put another 20 miles on it... spark plugs are still giving me problems -- Front is lean and rear is fouling??

Ignition on 2 / 3 and this is baffling because it runs smooth and strong, no hiccups, no spluttering?

Here are the new plugs after 20 miles.

[FSG]

what plugs ?

[Adam76]

Hey FSG, what do you mean?  I can see then a attachments on my screen. 

[FSG]

I see your pix, but type and number .....  NGKxxxxx ?

[Adam76]

Sorry!  NGK 3932 DCPR7E I was told they are the ones for the TC88.

[Ohio HD]

That plug is correct. Any below will work as well.


ACCEL - Y2418P
Autolite - 4164
Autolite Iridiuim - XS4164
Autolite Platinum - AP4164DP2
Bosch / Platinum - YR6LDE
Champion - RA8HC
Denso Iridium - IXU22
H-D Gold - 6R12G
H-D Platinum - 6R12PP
H-D Standard - 6R12
NGK - DCPR7E
NGK Iridium - DCPR7EIX
NGK Platinum - DCPR7E
Screamin' Eagle - EX12S
Splitfire - SF416D

[FSG]

 

[Adam76]

That plug is correct. Any below will work as well.


ACCEL - Y2418P
Autolite - 4164
Autolite Iridiuim - XS4164
Autolite Platinum - AP4164DP2
Bosch / Platinum - YR6LDE
Champion - RA8HC
Denso Iridium - IXU22
H-D Gold - 6R12G
H-D Platinum - 6R12PP
H-D Standard - 6R12
NGK - DCPR7E
NGK Iridium - DCPR7EIX
NGK Platinum - DCPR7E
Screamin' Eagle - EX12S
Splitfire - SF416D

Thanks Ohio, it's not the plug itself that I'm concerned about is the difference between they way they are burning.
Cheers

[Hossamania]

Might be time for a compression test.
Also, test the spark of each plug (new) for equal flame between front and rear.

[Adam76]

Might be time for a compression test.

Now I'm starting to worry.   

[Adam76]

Might be time for a compression test.
Also, test the spark of each plug (new) for equal flame between front and rear.

So what exactly would a compression test tell me about why the plug is fouling?

Is it likely to be valve related or piston ring related? 

The thing that's bugging me is that is runs really well....