Dyna rear wheel alignment

[Propflux01]

I have been having trouble getting an answer to this, so here goes.   I have a question about aligning the rear wheel. I changed the rear tire on the dyna switchback today. I built the alignment tool in accordance with the directions in the official manual. But when I use it, the axle sticks out further on one side than the other (because of the axle nut), this forces me to either guess an imaginary line between the tool and the axle, or lean the tool in. I leaned the tool in figuring it would be more accurate then guessing the air space in between the tool and the shorter part of the axle. I seem to have guessed wrong, as the tire was warmer than normal, and the brake disc is not aligned to the caliper and is dragging, when I test rode it. I chicken-scratched a pic to kind of show what I did. You'll notice the left side, which sticks out further, the tool is perfect 90* On the right, I had to lean the tool in to match up the holes on the axle. I did use axle pins, as well. I cant use just the axle hole, as finding center without pins is a guess at best, and using the side of the hole wont work because the hollow part of the axle ends are two different sizes on either end. Can anyone shed some light on what I am doing wrong here?

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[rigidthumper]

Caliper alignment is fixed by the bracket, so drag maybe be coming from the pads? I bend the short side angle of the tool long enough I can hold it parallel to the swingarm, and use a fat zip tie, tip cut to a centered point, and can usually get within 1/32" fairly easily.

[Propflux01]

I think I may have cured my own issue. I did it like the picture shows, but on both sides. Measured to within less than 1mm.

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[Rusticwater]

On my 2010 FXDC here's the approach I use. First, the hollow axle holes on each side are different sizes so instead of buying special measuring plugs, I went through my 1/4" drive socket collection and picked 2 sockets whose size pretty much matched the size of the axle holes. In my situation using old Craftsman sockets this worked out to be an 11mm socket for the right side and a 5/16" socket for the left side.

Then I insert the sockets into the matching axle hole, with the 1/4" drive side out, until the socket base is flush with the hole, so none of the socket protrudes outside of the axle.

Then I use my measuring tool (I use the Motion Pro tool) to eyeball to the center of the 1/4" square drive hole while turning the axle adjusters. Once it looks dead on for each side I move to the next step which is to check how the drive belt is tracking and also set drive belt tension.

To fine tune the alignment I spin the rear wheel, check if the drive belt is tracking to one side or the other of the drive pulley, and make 1/4 turn adjustments on the axle adjusters while also using the belt tension gauge to check belt tension. Once the belt seems to be tracking in the pulley okay, and at the proper tension, tighten the axle nut, double check again, and done.

[04 SE Deuce]

I do it kind of unorthodox.  I use the "inner" measuring tips of the digital caliper and measure from the far edge of the alignment hole back to the edge of the washer on the nut side and the edge of the flange/made-on washer on the axle head side.  I then have to adjust the measurement for the difference between the washer diameter and the axle flange diameter...washer slop on the axle is tapped toward the front on the bike to get accurate read.

Wheel alignment is important on a Dyna,  you can "string" the bike and get a good idea as to wheel alignment.  Both wheels on my 2005 are centered so it is easy to wrap a string/thread around the lower part of the rear wheel (just low enough to clear the frame etc. of the bike) to a pair of jack stands in front of the front wheel.  You'll know when you have both stands adjusted accurately as the string width out in front of the bike will be close to the rear tire width.  Then point the front wheel straight ahead in relation to the strings by measuring into front and rear edge of the front tire from each string equalizing the measurement to assure the front wheel is pointed straight.  The difference from left and right side measurements will tell you which way the rear wheel is mis-aligned, if it is.  I do this with both wheels off the ground and bike vertical on a jack so that moving the steering doesn't move the bike and effect the string adjustment. Luckily my J&S is not in the way of the strings. Rotate rear tire 180º and do again to get a second measurement/check in case of rear tire run-out.