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124" Project Storm Breaker

Started by Ohio HD, November 02, 2021, 05:00:30 PM

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kd

Yes, I measured mine without the gasket for accuracy too.  I also ended up with +.0035 actual on my 120.  I layered a .020 SLS with a .0035 linen (cotton fiber) special document paper using aviation cement film.  It compressed exactly .0000.  No Cents did the same.  I went to a stationary store with my micrometer.  :teeth:   It has held a bone dry seal.  I didn't want a carbon ring forming at the top of the piston and inhibiting ring seal.
KD

Ohio HD

You really think 0.0035" will cause a problem? Very unlikely. It's all dependent on how far the top ring is from the crown of the piston. Some are deeper than others.

OEM 110 pistons, the top ring is 0.175" from the crown. CP Bullet series pistons that I'm using, the top ring is 0.200" from the piston crown. Further from heat, and further from indirect carbon build at the top of the cylinder. The additional depth also allows for slight fitting adjustments.   

kd

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 21, 2022, 11:37:35 AMYou really think 0.0035" will cause a problem? Very unlikely. It's all dependent on how far the top ring is from the crown of the piston. Some are deeper than others.

OEM 110 pistons, the top ring is 0.175" from the crown. CP Bullet series pistons that I'm using, the top ring is 0.200" from the piston crown. Further from heat, and further from indirect carbon build at the top of the cylinder. The additional depth also allows for slight fitting adjustments.   


Oh yeah.  I spell it O-C-D.  :hyst:  I see you are trying to deal with the same amount.  :teeth:

I was mostly thinking about preventing a carbon ring forming around the top crown edge of the piston and reducing the gas pressure behind the rings.  Like you say, the carbon tends to pack into the edge of the cylinders. As it turns out, after checking the cylinders with an endoscope after thousands of miles, "for some reason" the pistons are still shiny clean.  :SM:  You can read the numbers etched in the tops like they were new.  Go figure.  :hyst:  Well at least I know what I have.
KD

Ohio HD

I understand. Knowing what you have is important when looking into some issue.

If I were really concerned with carbon, etc. I'd set the squish tighter than 0.030" and let the motor warm up to operating temperature before riding it. Street motors are a compromise to total performance and motor life. We get there close, but racing tolerances can be quite a bit different.

jsachs1

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 21, 2022, 11:37:35 AMYou really think 0.0035" will cause a problem? Very unlikely. It's all dependent on how far the top ring is from the crown of the piston. Some are deeper than others.

OEM 110 pistons, the top ring is 0.175" from the crown. CP Bullet series pistons that I'm using, the top ring is 0.200" from the piston crown. Further from heat, and further from indirect carbon build at the top of the cylinder. The additional depth also allows for slight fitting adjustments. 
You also need to look at the intake valve pocket re: Top ring land.
John

Ohio HD

I decided I may need a stronger chain than what I have. EK Chain has a new series of chain that's stronger and lighter than their previous 530 series chains. This one has 11,400 PSI tensile strength. The tire should go up in smoke before this chain would break, but one never knows.


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Ohio HD

Another tool is always wanted. I bought a heavier duty chain breaker - riveter. Bikemaster is supposed to be one of the better chain tools out there. It is really heavy duty. Works on 420, 530 and 630 chains.


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Coyote

Got to have one.

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Ohio HD

I have a couple lighter duty breakers. But they don't rivet all that well. I needed a good one.

Coyote

I bought that one for my wife's 650gs but have done a few sport bikes with it. Seemed to work well.  I have a shaft drive on my bike so a different animal for maintenance.  Lol

Coyote

I will add I've never used the chain breaker.  The cut off grinder works for that.

FXDBI

May 21, 2022, 08:34:22 PM #236 Last Edit: May 21, 2022, 08:35:38 PM by Ohio HD
Quote from: Ohio HD on May 21, 2022, 07:23:08 PMAnother tool is always wanted. I bought a heavier duty chain breaker - riveter. Bikemaster is supposed to be one of the better chain tools out there. It is really heavy duty. Works on 420, 530 and 630 chain

At least you didnt blame no one else for this tool purchase but yourself!    :hyst:    Bob

Ohio HD

Quote from: FXDBI on May 21, 2022, 08:34:22 PM
Quote from: Ohio HD on May 21, 2022, 07:23:08 PMAnother tool is always wanted. I bought a heavier duty chain breaker - riveter. Bikemaster is supposed to be one of the better chain tools out there. It is really heavy duty. Works on 420, 530 and 630 chain

At least you didnt blame no one else for this tool purchase but yourself!    :hyst:    Bob


Heck, I put two kids through collage at Purdue University buying from my Snap-On guy.....    :emoGroan: 

Wookie3011

Great chain! It's the one I used also. I also bought bike master kit and love it. I did have to crank down pretty hard on it to get a good rivet set. I also did a little deburring  on mine. It came a little rough where they tapped it for the threads on the inside of the tool. It would interfere with the bolt threads going into the tool. Good tool though. Not a whole lot of good tools offered for this job.  I definitely can't wait to see the end result. It's going to be insane for sure.

Ohio HD

You may have gotten one that was at the end of their tapping tool's life span when they made it. I checked the threads first thing, these are all smooth. I may have gotten a Tuesday or Wednesday built tool.    :idunno: 

Ohio HD

A box full of black parts arrived. Complete set including transmission, except the outer primary. It's in a different box.

Outside looks good. The insides are terrible. I'll have to deburr the inside of every part. I can flick pieces of aluminum off by hand. So they assemble parts like this on a motor at the factory. Sad.


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Buglet

  The sad part all those parts are made in the good old USA, by union workers.  You would think they would have a little pride in there work.

Ohio HD

Well, I have to give Carrillo a few points for responding right away. This guy would know, he's their Rod Sales Manager. I suspect that the eight weeks is probably not real however. Art at R&R said he had waited almost a year for some rods from Carrillo.



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Buglet

  I wonder if there that busy or they can't get enough good workers to keep up with the demand. I hear this all over.

SB107

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 20, 2022, 12:37:47 PMWell, I'm tired of waiting on Carrillo rods, especially since they didn't ship last week as they were supposed to. And are now giving no ship date. Hell of a way to run a railroad.

I spoke with Andrew regarding their DH competition rods. I have a set in my other 124". In the past no one would tell me what the difference was in them, other than I knew they're 0.010" longer, and they're imported. Andrew said he's worked with Trask as well as Gary Williams making motors over the 200 horsepower mark, and no issues with the DH competition rods. So I told him go ahead and use them. I can't keep waiting when there's no date as to when the Carrillo rods will ever arrive.

Next Cometic will tell me their 0.031" base gaskets are on back order.....   I need thicker base gaskets now for the longer rods.     :doh:   

I have their competition rods in mine at 160hp, no issues whatsoever.
Mutant Motors 124"
161/148 STD, 158/145 SAE

hrdtail78

I have stacked .010 and a .020 to get .030.  I have stacked .010's on each side of a stroker plate all with no problems.  I use a light coating of case sealer.  This coming after recommendations in doing so from several builder that I consider some of the best in the industry.
Semper Fi

Ohio HD

Quote from: hrdtail78 on May 26, 2022, 11:29:50 AMI have stacked .010 and a .020 to get .030.  I have stacked .010's on each side of a stroker plate all with no problems.  I use a light coating of case sealer.  This coming after recommendations in doing so from several builder that I consider some of the best in the industry.

I wondered about stacking the Cometic SLS gaskets.

You just used the typical grey case sealer on them? I never thought to use that on a gasket, but it makes perfect sense. 

hrdtail78

Yes, ThreeBond 1184. 
Semper Fi

kd

I experimented stacking base gaskets using Permatex Aviation form A non hardening gasket cement in a thin film just enough to put a shine on the surface.  When the barrels are torqued down any access will form a barely noticeable bead around the perimeter of the base.  It is easily removed with a pointy stick and cleans up with solvent. I measured the stack components and that was exactly the dimension that showed up on the deck height change. Even with a linen paper stacked as a shim 4 years later still bone dry.   Now I better not have jinxed myself to share this with you.  :crook: 
KD

Ohio HD

I have to give Andrew at DH a good word. I spoke to him on Monday, and by Tuesday they started on my crankshaft. Today, Thursday they finished, and will ship it tomorrow.

This should be the last of any major expenses, except tuning the bike. It'll cost me as much in fuel to haul my bike to the tuner and back as it'll be to tune it.....   but that's maybe September the way timewise things stand now.

Good thing, I'm getting light headed from selling blood every few days to fund this project.