124" Project Storm Breaker

[Ohio HD]

I checked the fit of the R&R Cycles roller rockers with the Vulcan Engineering billet rocker support plates. They fit great, and have next to no felt end play. There has to be some, but it can't be more than a few thousandths of an inch.

These plates also have the setscrews to lock the rocker shafts in place. No rattling will be heard here. I also am using the Vulcan Engineering breather assemblies. They're precision fit from billet aluminum, and there will be no escaped venting from these.


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I have been curious about the breathers from Vulcan. Seems the later stamped ones from Harley get a strong thumbs up, but I have always suspected the ability of a stamped piece of sheet metal to properly seal. I am paying attention to this.

That's my same line of thinking. I'm using the later style OEM in two of my bikes, but I have no idea if they seal internally as they should.

Internally the guts in these Vulcan units are the same as the new style OEM. But these components will no doubt seal completely.

[Ohio HD]

I guess I should show the breathers. They remarkably look like the last generation that HD used, the cast aluminum housings. So I guess what is new is really what is old.

The only real difference besides the billet housings is the blue flapper valve. It feels softer than the red ones, more pliable. The foam on the back is glued in place, and looks to be more dense than HD's. But that's just what I see.

Also MENTAL NOTE! Check the bolt lengths before spinning them home into the heads. You never know. I still check them when I reassemble with the same parts.




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[Jonny Cash]

I removed the flappers in my new 135" B2 engine. Jim Libo drilled and tapped in the box with a fitting and In run S&S external breathers and 3/8" hoses to the catch can. Breathes great. I have a 3 bar sensor in the left case to data log crankcase pressure, pretty interesting things going on there.

[Ohio HD]

I've been thinking along a similar route, less the pressure sensor and logging. I may send my heads back in to have them tapped for hose barbs. I don't know yet of I'll use these or just the external in line valves. Probably will try these first.

This is set that he recently changed to direct access to the venting system.

[Ohio HD]

following 

   

It's going to be slow going for awhile. Randy doesn't expect the piston until near the end of the year. Then I can order a crank from Darkhorse. Hopefully they have Carrillo rods in stock at that time. And I don't know how busy DH will be. Luckily I'm not rushed.

Oh...           

[hrdtail78]

Will that rear vent placement work w/ a TBW?  I know it is tight in there.  The pressure data was for my own purpose.  I have heard and read a lot of theory about crank case venting and if you will ever have a vacuum.  Well worth the time and effort and Kelly's bike was perfect for the test.  Gleamed some great knowledge.

[Ohio HD]

I have to verify the module side of the TB yet Agree it'll be tight if it fits.

[Ohio HD]

Plenty of room. This an HPI setup on my other 124".

I guess someone didn't wash this thing after they rode it last weekend.....    guess I better clean it this weekend.



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[turboprop]

I removed the flappers in my new 135" B2 engine. Jim Libo drilled and tapped in the box with a fitting and In run S&S external breathers and 3/8" hoses to the catch can. Breathes great. I have a 3 bar sensor in the left case to data log crankcase pressure, pretty interesting things going on there.

I have often thought about using external one-way valves instead of the oem style internal breathers because of the ability to easily test and replace them. The external configuration would also eliminate any internal leaks associated with the breathers.

Also very interested in knowing more about that pressure sensor and data logger. Have you shared any of the data collected from it on this page?

[Jonny Cash]

I removed the flappers in my new 135" B2 engine. Jim Libo drilled and tapped in the box with a fitting and In run S&S external breathers and 3/8" hoses to the catch can. Breathes great. I have a 3 bar sensor in the left case to data log crankcase pressure, pretty interesting things going on there.

I have often thought about using external one-way valves instead of the oem style internal breathers because of the ability to easily test and replace them. The external configuration would also eliminate any internal leaks associated with the breathers.

Also very interested in knowing more about that pressure sensor and data logger. Have you shared any of the data collected from it on this page?

I haven't, I've been gone for awhile. I started over different life, different wife in Iowa. I'm doing engine control now with a Maxxecu, hrdtail78 did the install and tune. Ive gotten pretty proficient with it. We wanted to see actual data, instead of all the fakebook myth with breather setups. There is a pulse that happens in the crankcase with a frequency that is kind of backwards of what i figured. The pulse has a lower frequency at 7500 rpm, slows down tremendously.I do know Jim Libo built and Jason broke it in great, ring seal is tremendous. Be glad to discuss the data, just cannot share the downloads, with Maxx the tunefile is embedded in the datalog.

[turboprop]

I removed the flappers in my new 135" B2 engine. Jim Libo drilled and tapped in the box with a fitting and In run S&S external breathers and 3/8" hoses to the catch can. Breathes great. I have a 3 bar sensor in the left case to data log crankcase pressure, pretty interesting things going on there.

I have often thought about using external one-way valves instead of the oem style internal breathers because of the ability to easily test and replace them. The external configuration would also eliminate any internal leaks associated with the breathers.

Also very interested in knowing more about that pressure sensor and data logger. Have you shared any of the data collected from it on this page?

I haven't, I've been gone for awhile. I started over different life, different wife in Iowa. I'm doing engine control now with a Maxxecu, hrdtail78 did the install and tune. Ive gotten pretty proficient with it. We wanted to see actual data, instead of all the fakebook myth with breather setups. There is a pulse that happens in the crankcase with a frequency that is kind of backwards of what i figured. The pulse has a lower frequency at 7500 rpm, slows down tremendously.I do know Jim Libo built and Jason broke it in great, ring seal is tremendous. Be glad to discuss the data, just cannot share the downloads, with Maxx the tunefile is embedded in the datalog.

What was your previous screen name?

[Jonny Cash]

It was the same, I just havent been active on here for a couple years. I met you a few years ago in Fayetteville at the drags

[Ohio HD]

I chose the HPI V2 air breather for this motor. It should be able to keep from restricting the motor. I wanted to use their head breather kit, but would like to up the hose sizes to 0.375". I don't think running smaller is detrimental to the motor, but I'd rather have the larger hose as I plan to open their fitting a little bit where the motor is vented. I can't open it much, but every little bit might help.

I looked at the breather kit from HPI, and I think the easiest way to add 0.375" hose is to make the standoffs universal, in that they can be used for 0.250" or 0.375". If you look at the image below, this is how HPI supplies the standoffs. The 0.250" hose fitting is pressed into the standoff. You can see (red arrow) where there is a grove machined for the o-ring shown. What the o-ring does is seal off the other side of the standoff when the breather screw is inserted.

So my plan will be to add the machined groove (blue arrow) to the other side. Then the standoff can be flipped. I'll add a 0.375" pressed in hose fitting on the other side. No matter what side you use, the internal o-ring will seal off the other side. So it's just a matter of flipping it after you machine the grove and drill for a pressed in fitting.   

When I finish the second assembly with the changes I'll post it as well.



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[Ohio HD]

This is the actual parts HPI supplies.


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[Ohio HD]

So this is the way that I see setting these standoffs up. As you can see in these three views that the internal o-ring will sperate the two sides when the breather bolt is inserted. It's a super tight fit, so I'm confident that this can't leak from one side to another. It uses a standard -206 o-ring so they're easily sourced. Then just put a vacuum cap on the hose fitting you don't use just for aesthetics.




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[turboprop]

I have the exact same air cleaner and stand-offs from HPI on the TC124 that is in my blue/white FXR. I was very concerned about case breathing. Turned out my concerns were unfounded. I still might do what you have in your drawings, but only to allow the the lines from the stands-offs to be easily attached to the 5/16" barb on a catch can.

[Ohio HD]

The good thing as well is where they placed the o-ring, it gives more real-estate on the other side to work with to place another hose nipple.

You also may want to use new screws that have a larger surface to give more support on the end of the standoff where the o-ring cut was made. These are wider than the screws HPI supplied.


https://www.mcmaster.com/90909A535/

[FXDBI]

No thoughts of drilling the heads and tapping for barbs while the heads are off be a lot simpler?  Bob
ADDED:
Sorry read back and forgot you were considering barbs. So you have decided not to and use the supplied ones with the air cleaner then.  Bob

[Ohio HD]

I'm modifying the supplied parts from HPI to use them.

[Ohio HD]

Just my opinion, if you were to use this method of adding another hose nipple to the offset for the backing plate, I'd get high quality thick walled steel fittings. These I'll cut the hex and thread off. Then I'll have a press in hose nipple that won't crush under pressing it in.



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[Ohio HD]

While waiting on parts, I'm putting together some new tool ideas to make assembly easier and more accurate. I drew a simple steel pad with countersinks for flat head screws. This mounts to the tappet pad on a Twin Cam motor. There's countersinks on both sides so it can be used for front or back tappet pads.

This gives a sturdy mounting point for your dial indicator. It can be used to find piston top dead center when a piston stop is used. It can also be used read piston height setting your piston to head squish. Mainly I made it to use with a degree wheel to check the S&S-640 cam timing in this 124".

You can make this easily. Parts: 4.000" x 4.000" x 0.375" simple ground steel pad and four 1/4-20x1.00 flat head screws to mount it with.

Also I'd recommend using a tappet cover gasket with this. That way you won't scar your case with the steel block.


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[kd]

Can't ever have too many tools.  Some make it quicker, some easier and others more accurate.  I think you checked all 3 boxes. 

[Ohio HD]

Another tool I've wanted to build for awhile. Take the long collar from a Timken bearing installation tool and weld a tab onto the side. This will let you mount a dial indicator, and make reading the end play really easy. I want to have the crank here and place it in the left case to determine how wide the tab needs to be before making it and welding it to the collar.


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[turboprop]

Another tool I've wanted to build for awhile. Take the long collar from a Timken bearing installation tool and weld a tab onto the side. This will let you mount a dial indicator, and make reading the end play really easy. I want to have the crank here and place it in the left case to determine how wide the tab needs to be before making it and welding it to the collar.


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I made tis tool and really like how it works. Again, I will take a pic and measurements when I am home this weekend. I have used it many times on shovel, evo and TC engines.

[Ohio HD]

Another tool I've wanted to build for awhile. Take the long collar from a Timken bearing installation tool and weld a tab onto the side. This will let you mount a dial indicator, and make reading the end play really easy. I want to have the crank here and place it in the left case to determine how wide the tab needs to be before making it and welding it to the collar.


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I made tis tool and really like how it works. Again, I will take a pic and measurements when I am home this weekend. I have used it many times on shovel, evo and TC engines.

Thanks I appreciate it. Seems like the most common sense design, and pretty simple.