Engine problems after 95" build part II - help needed

[kd]

   That sounds like forward motion to me.

[FXDBI]

  That sounds like forward motion to me.

    It takes time and time=money in a shop. They cost to stay open to.   Bob

[Adam76]

  That sounds like forward motion to me.

    It takes time and time=money in a shop. They cost to stay open to.   Bob

Hey Bob, I have no problem paying for work to be performed.

I just wasn't given the option of paying more for a bit more of his time and expertise to get the info I needed.

[JSD]

Put some ks up and recheck plugs

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

Adam76
I am very late to the game here and did not read all 18 pages but I have read some of posts and the amount of advice can become very confusing..

Here is mine, take or leave it but it works extremely well for me. My bike runs strong and as far as I am concerned correct.

Here is what I have and what I am running.

2004 Softail standard.
95"
2006 modified heads and intake

Spark plugs- NGK-DCPR7E Gap .035"
Harley Forged domed piston
.30" multi layer head gasket
Squish ~.032
Compression ~10.25 : 1
S&S 570 cam
Manual comp releases
All internals reworked or new (cam plate, crank, lifters, pushrods etc.)
I am running a DTT ignition, slightly different than yours I suspect based on the changes between 2001/2 and 2004 ignitions. I have mine set at 2 and 4 and rev limit 6200rpm

For carb set up here is my set up.
CV 40

1. I radiused the slide
2. Adjusted accelerator rod for instant movement to accelerator diaphragm
3. Adjusted accelerator brass squirter angle making sure squirt goes in center of carb bore.
4. Float set to HD spec

Carb fuel parts.

48 pilot
200 Main jet
Needle - #27094-88 (NC65C) Called the "Sporty needle" commonly used on older sporters NO shim/washer!
A/F adjustment is ~ 2 to 2 1/2 turns out.


I took this to the dyno, I got 95 HP 103 tq. Very humid day.

I have been running this set up for 12 years and it has not skipped a beat!
I get 40+ MPG running at 65-70 mph
If I run hard, yes I use more gas!

Took it to Sturgis in 2015, did well over 2000 miles in 5 days while there even at higher elevation and motor never skipped a beat! Ran rich as hell but all was good!

One thing that I found when dyno tuning, For my model DTT, I purchased used, It had a altered map done by previous owner. During tuning, one of the timing adjustments did not work as expected.

Reason- My model DTT if a altered map is uploaded it removes the slope timing adjustment.

I when in through my laptop and restored the software to DTT defaults which now allowed both timing settings to actually change the timing map as designed. (not sure yours has this issue so make sure you are at the DTT factory default settings in the software.

I will also note, Once I got my carb dialed in, I was able to adjust the idle rpm down well below the spec of ~ 800-900 rpm. I actually accomplished the old Potato, potato of the older HD's as a test of a tight intake and carb connection integrity as a way of showing no intake leaks as motor ran fine. Kind of old school test for me anyways.

Of course I run ~800 -900 rpm at idle.

So, That is my set up and it may work for you also if you choose to try it.

Good luck

[Adam76]

Thanks KGHOST, thanks for posting your set up and experience. It is a very similar build to mine.

Glad to hear it's going strong for 12 years, that's impressive. I have sent you a pm.

Cheers Adam

[Adam76]

I try not to use any metal brush on a sparkplug, simply because dragging metal across the ceramic can deposit traces of the metal, which can induce a misfire. No problem with cleaning the threads, and I use anti-seize on any reinstallation of plugs (or O2 sensors). Gap @ .035"-.038", and make sure the accelerator pump is spraying directly on the needle.

Thanks for this info.
When you say make sure the accelerator pump is squirting on the needle - do you mean literally directly onto the needle itself?

I'm getting slightly rich plug on the rear cylinder and a bit lean on the front. Would directing the squirt from the acc pump nozzle a few degrees toward the front cylinder (just to the right of the needle) help even things out a bit between the front and rear cylinders?

Thanks.

[PC_Hater]

I try not to use any metal brush on a sparkplug, simply because dragging metal across the ceramic can deposit traces of the metal, which can induce a misfire. No problem with cleaning the threads, and I use anti-seize on any reinstallation of plugs (or O2 sensors). Gap @ .035"-.038", and make sure the accelerator pump is spraying directly on the needle.

Thanks for this info.
When you say make sure the accelerator pump is squirting on the needle - do you mean literally directly onto the needle itself?

I'm getting slightly rich plug on the rear cylinder and a bit lean on the front. Would directing the squirt from the acc pump nozzle a few degrees toward the front cylinder (just to the right of the needle) help even things out a bit between the front and rear cylinders?

Thanks.

Mainly you are 'cruising' so the accelerator pump isn't doing much...
Now go here to RB Racing and have a read.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm

They are a spectacularly cantankerous bunch of old farts but as far as I can tell they know what they are doing.
I have their old dual-AFR meter on my FLTRI TC88 that now runs a Mikuni HSR42.
Can't decide whether to go 95" next year or just go to +10 88"!