Installing the new SE Oilpump without removing everything? Potential issues?

Started by FranBunnyFFXII, November 15, 2021, 01:02:07 AM

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FranBunnyFFXII

I'm going to be purchasing the 2021 SE Big Sucker oil pump system for my 2018 Fat Boy 114, as it has the original oil pump system in it.
My intent was to take off the cam cover and just replace the oilpump and O-rings, and then button everything back up.
But then an issue about the install potentially popped up.
I was watching someone else install a pump upgrade for their M8 Bagger, and when they went to put the camplate in, they couldnt get it back on because the springs had pushed the cam down just enough that it couldn't clear the cameplate cam hole.
He decide to pull out his adjustable pushrods to get the cameplate back in there.

So now I'm trying to figure out an idea of how to deal with this potential issue.

I really don't want to have to cut out the stock pushrods and put adjustables in there at the same time.
I just want to replace the oil pump and camplate.

I was thinking put the old bolt back into the cam and have someone else lift up on the cam just enough with a loop of cord/fishing line(or some way to pull it up), to clear the hole. I am going to be using brand new bolts for the camshaft and crank shaft, so I'm not at all worried about damaging the bolt lifting up with it.

Is there any danger to pulling up on the bolt like that? How much pressure do the springs exert? Would it be difficult to lift up against the weight of the 4 stock springs?

Or should I just concede and get a bolt cuter and a set of adjustable pushrods?
2018 Fat Boy 114 "Rayearth" Resurgence Limited Paint, 20/150. Stage 2 SE-447

Ohio HD

Do it right. You need to be able to center the oil pump on the pinion shaft while tightening the fasteners to the cam plate. You don't have to cut the pushrods, buy some gaskets and remove the rocker cover and rocker arms. Do it once, and do it right.

Pirsch Fire Wagon

Quote from: Ohio HD on November 15, 2021, 01:30:32 AMDo it right. You need to be able to center the oil pump on the pinion shaft while tightening the fasteners to the cam plate. You don't have to cut the pushrods, buy some gaskets and remove the rocker cover and rocker arms. Do it once, and do it right.

Best advice you'll ever get. If you get it wrong, you may be getting an Engine.
Tom

HogMike

Cut the pushrods out, get your oil pump in, install adjustable pushrods.
It's a major pita to R&R the cooling lines on top of the engine.

Also, make sure you get the correct oil pump for the oil cooled motor.

May as well change the cam as long as you're in that far, maybe some new lifters also depending upon mileage.

You only live once!

JMHO
 :potstir:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

FranBunnyFFXII

I'm not sure what cam I want to do right now, or if I even want one. I want to put at least another 1000 miles on the bike so I can really understand where and how I'm riding the bike and find a cam that benefits that the most.

I mostly just want to replace the weak links and outdated parts on the bike right now.
Oil Pump upgrade and compensator Ramp upgrade are the 2 big ticket items that I need to replace.

I'm going to go with adjustable pushrods for this. FuelMoto Ez pushrods are the ones I'm planning on going with atm.
2018 Fat Boy 114 "Rayearth" Resurgence Limited Paint, 20/150. Stage 2 SE-447

hrdtail78

You mean Bender brand pushrods?   I recommend SE's for most and the tubes make adjustment easy.  S&S and Smith Brothers also make decent pushrods.  You cannot view this attachment.
Semper Fi

kd

KD

hrdtail78

Semper Fi

Jamie Long

Quote from: hrdtail78 on November 16, 2021, 11:51:06 AM
Quote from: kd on November 16, 2021, 11:07:19 AMAren't the Fuel Moto pushrods rebranded Smith Brothers? 

Use to be.  The ones I have seen in the latest kits and advertised on website are Bender.
https://www.fuelmotousa.com/i-20859468-fuel-moto-ez-quick-install-pushrods-milwaukee-8-twin-cam-engines.html

The original FM pushrods were made by Smith Brothers, however since 2019 all FM pushrods have been manufactured by S&S Cycle in Viola, WI (as shown in your the link)

kd

Jamie, was there a technical reason for your change or something else.?
KD

FranBunnyFFXII

Are the SE Pushrods really the best option? Or is it just because of the new tube size part of the kit?
Are the SE rods the most reliable?

I'd like to see what the difference is between the old FuelMoto EZ pushrods and the old ones.

It'd be a 50$ difference for SE pushrods over the FuelMoto ones.
2018 Fat Boy 114 "Rayearth" Resurgence Limited Paint, 20/150. Stage 2 SE-447

Coyote

IMO, you are not going to have any issues with any of them. The Fuel Moto ones will be fine. I always used tapered ones.

Jamie Long

Smith Brothers serviced us with a very good product for many years, there were however a couple reasons for the change, the primary being we wanted to bring business local, S&S was able to accommodate our pushrod needs & volume. They allowed us to do a mild redesign on an already existing catalog part; the body lengths were changed, the thread depth & adjuster were modified allowing the pushrod to further collapse, providing installation & adjustment on both M8 & TC engines with stock tubes

kd

 :up:   Thanks for the straight up answer Jamie.  It's good to know.
KD