Cleaning Cylinders

[FXDBI]

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-with-jeff-smith-cleaning-cylinder-walls/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=what-i-learned-today-with-jeff-smith-cleaning-cylinder-walls

Found this to be a interesting read. First time I have seen mention of using quick seal in a technical article. Stuff is magic is all I can say I have been using it after seeing it mentioned on this site years back. I bought a jar after reading the product information then to try. After the first experience I was sold have been using it since. Bob

[No Cents]

 I have been using MMO to clean cylinders for years. 
I will also put a teaspoon of it in a full tank of gas tank every now and then to clean the fuel system. 

[kd]

I don't use Quick Seal but probably would if I had it or access to it.  I use a mix of a dyno oil of at least 30W (usually Shell Rotella T 10-40 for the ZZDP and additives) and a good 2 stroke oil.  I get insured piston and ring lube for start-up and the 2 stroke component prevents sudden heat build-up on the ring faces (due to elevated cold start rpm with FI engines) while allowing the seating process to begin.  The cylinder cross hatch is still sharp on the first heat cycle start-ups and care of the rings is paramount. My preferred start-up heat cycle oil is also Rotella (10-40) for the reasons mentioned and it is light enough to invade the new tighter tolerances for the first critical cooler run periods.

[FXDBI]

I don't use Quick Seal but probably would if I had it or access to it.  I use a mix of a dyno oil of at least 30W (usually Shell Rotella T 10-40 for the ZZDP and additives) and a good 2 stroke oil.  I get insured piston and ring lube for start-up and the 2 stroke component prevents sudden heat build-up on the ring faces (due to elevated cold start rpm with FI engines) while allowing the seating process to begin.  The cylinder cross hatch is still sharp on the first heat cycle start-ups and care of the rings is paramount. My preferred start-up heat cycle oil is also Rotella (10-40) for the reasons mentioned and it is light enough to invade the new tighter tolerances for the first critical cooler run periods.

I also use Shell Rotella for break in and until I have 1000km on it. The quick seal I had to order from Summit and wait for it. Turns the oil a funky green in the first 2 changes after 50 n then 100km. I bought a K&P re-usable filter 15 yrs ago and it has paid for itself a couple times over now. Canuk tire puts Rotella on sale in 5lt jugs regularly.   Bob