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setting wheel bearing play

Started by 1340evo, December 18, 2021, 12:45:04 AM

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1340evo

I'm getting rid of the thin tube and shims and machining tubes to establish the bearing fit to around .003 when torqued up, but then checking the gap after is a bit hit and miss.
I've got the clock on the disc and the assy in a vice, but you only get one go at measuring the real play. Thereafter the rollers move in ov the bearings slightly and stop it moveing as much.
Tried it clean and with a bit of grease... Anyone else see this  :teeth:

xlfan

Yes, thats why bearing end play should be set with new dry bearings. 

1340evo

They are new dry bearings.. being dry makes it worst so I did add a bit of grease... All set now, but ypu could easy get it wrong if you didn't realise...

Buglet

   Make sure there clean and then a little WD40 no grease.

1340evo

I'll try the WD40, see if it makes them slide  :wink:

Pirsch Fire Wagon


I get it. They can surely be a PIA sometimes i.e. dirt, grease, bla, bla.

JMO: I don't think you can eliminate shimming a Tapered Roller Bearing. It may work on one set. But, chances are another set will differ, if only slightly due to manufacturing and, if it's + then you're in a corundum. Almost certainly if changing a Race the end play will differ.

Perhaps there is a way to use a Cylindrical Roller Bearing and Sleeve to accomplish it????

Whatever the case, I hope it works.
Tom

1340evo

I guess so long as you have some play in there it is okay, some applications with these bearing run with no play and even a pre-load. not sure why some need a gap and others don't?

kd

Preloaded tapered bearings typically run in oil bath hubs.  Grease tends to squeeze out ahead of a roller.  The temperature creates expansion or contraction and alters clearances.  Consider holding on to your OEM spacers and shims in case your experiment has less than stellar results.  Especially when you go the swap out the bearings and find they have different fit tolerances. :wink:
KD

fbn ent

Quote from: Pirsch Fire Wagon on December 18, 2021, 12:25:37 PMI get it. They can surely be a PIA sometimes i.e. dirt, grease, bla, bla.

JMO: I don't think you can eliminate shimming a Tapered Roller Bearing. It may work on one set. But, chances are another set will differ, if only slightly due to manufacturing and, if it's + then you're in a corundum. Almost certainly if changing a Race the end play will differ.

Perhaps there is a way to use a Cylindrical Roller Bearing and Sleeve to accomplish it????

Whatever the case, I hope it works.

I wish they still had tapered rollers. They are the best for lateral and radial stress.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

1340evo

Quote from: kd on December 19, 2021, 11:28:16 AMPreloaded tapered bearings typically run in oil bath hubs.  Grease tends to squeeze out ahead of a roller.  The temperature creates expansion or contraction and alters clearances.  Consider holding on to your OEM spacers and shims in case your experiment has less than stellar results.  Especially when you go the swap out the bearings and find they have different fit tolerances. :wink:

Its a bearing we use at work, and withine the brand they are very repeatable... I've tried about 5 sets and they all clock the same so I have a few spares  :wink:  Only time will tell....