12 Touring axle torque value

[76shuvlinoff]

Gentlemen,
 I have (or had) an entire 12 touring service manual on a thumb drive. It will not open for me. All I need is the torque values for the nuts on both axles. I don't change tires often enough to go by memory. 

 Thanks
  Mark

[Hossamania]

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,54534.0.html

[Hossamania]

I haven't found it yet in the link I posted, but I thought it was something like 75 lbs., but many are going to 105 to 125 to keep the adjustment from walking.

[Coyote]

96 to 144 rear
60 front

[76shuvlinoff]

Thanks all.

[Hossamania]

96 to 144 is quite a range!

[Coyote]

95 to 105 is in the 12 manual. I had the other on my cheat sheet 

[FSG]

[PoorUB]

I always cranked the rear to 125ftlbs.

The axle never moved with that torque.

[76shuvlinoff]

I always cranked the rear to 125ftlbs.

The axle never moved with that torque.

 Pretty much stock 103 except for the 54s and decatted head pipe, plus I'm old and ride older. I'll go to 125 but there's probably not much danger of my axle moving. 

Thanks

[76shuvlinoff]

She's all back together and tucked in till spring so I am going to ask. What is the hack to pulling and installing the rear wheel/tire assembly on a 12 touring bike? This is only the 2nd time I've done it, the first was far enough back I've forgotten anything I learned then. I had the bike up on a table but it's so far forward the drop out panel didn't gain me much. I am going to move the wheel vise and stop back 10-12" before I do another one.

 I must've went back and forth from side to side 3 dozen times getting it all in there and the axle installed. I'd starve if I did this for a living. I pulled the bags, mufflers and caliper getting it out. Unnecessary? Glad I looked at the rear pads, they wouldn't have made another season.

 Thanks,
 Mark

[kd]

I don't use my drop out panel.  I'm over 70 and afraid I won't be able to handle the weight and I will end up with it trapped in the hole.     I use my scissor jack under the transmission.  I have 4 tiedowns, 2 each front and rear.  I first loosen the axle nut and caliper fasteners while the bike is stable.  With the level set at about mid way (2'ish), I elevate the back, stopping a couple of times to release tension on the front and rear as the bike rises.  When I get it high enough I snug it up for stability.  I remove the fasteners, wrap the caliper and hang it, roll the tire to the rear and walk the wheel out the left side until it will roll out. I do the same in reverse to reinstall it.  Getting the caliper in place while lowering the bike can be a bit persnickety but I set the pistons back into the calipers to make the fit easier.  The trick when it is all in place, is to use short easy strokes on the brake pedal to work the pistons back out slowly until the pads contact the rotor.  I have actually had a master cylinder piston jam into the bottom of the bore and stick by forcing them to move too far without the disc to control the stroke distance.  This works well for me,  It isn't lightning fast but it's reasonable and also not hard.