Woods lifters fine scratches

[itsafatboy]

So took out my lifters today was looking at adding some limiters, but what I noticed was these fine scratches on the body very fine can't feel with finger nail , just wondering if these are ok or time to change they have low miles like 2000 ,

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[kd]

Pretty common.  More like the shine is just buffed off a bit.  If the lifters are not showing any symptoms of failure and are not too high mileage, I would check the aluminum bores for imbedded particles and move on.

[FXDBI]

With only 2000 miles on them I don't think they should look like that. Dirt is the likely source I would think. Might be "Common" but I don't think its right. Like suggested check the lifter bore. Personally I would use ultra fine scotch brite and polish it then clean it. Assembly lube is a must in the bores and outside of lifter. Engine work requires surgical clean conditions. Pretty tough with in-frame work Dry starts another. Any time I have a engine apart I do 2-3 cycles of plugs fuel fuse pulled and use the starter to turn it over until the oil light is out and I get pressure. This not only primes the engine of oil it also give lifter bores and oil pump a flush before starting. I would start with checking the lifter bores.
    Bob

[itsafatboy]

So here is my plan just wat to give it a try ,  woods tw9bg cam , woods springs ,

the travel limiters are .112 all of them measure out at this
woods lifters , .200 travel , i cleaned and put limiters in. 

so on the adjustment i was thinking of going .065 from top 8 flats on my pushrods they are 20 tpi,  new quick install from pushrods.net (same ones fueling sells) 

so this gives me .023 or so under the plunger and .065 below the clip ,

does this sound ok or am i just being stupid i know i can go .130 or so without the limiters , but i just wanted to give it a try with woods lifters , but i dont want it to be noisey as hell , welcome all thoughts   

[kd]

Consider adjusting them with the limiters off the bottom.  Turn them down to the plunger just touching bottom (pushrod stops spinning)and back them off 1 flat only (pushrod releases and spins).  They will be quiet and when the engine heats up the barrels grow another .040 to .060.  That will put you at a point that will feed oil to the heads.  This method has worked very well for me and other members in the past.   

[itsafatboy]

Ok I'll do that , do they really grow 40 to 60 thousands seems like a lot

[kd]

Ok I'll do that , do they really grow 40 to 60 thousands seems like a lot

Rumour has it.  I have never measured it but I know heat causes expansion and aluminum has one of the higher known growth rates. 

If you adjust solids the same way as I mentioned it'll be ticking when up to temp. For that reason you set them to the point they will just barely spin under finger pressure. With hydraulics you can give them 1 flat. They remain quiet because of the oil cushion that forms as the heads and barrels grow from the heat.

[Ohio HD]

I have no idea how much a TC motor might expand from temperature. But I doubt the cylinders and heads grow all that much. They're retained by steel studs that will expend less than the aluminum will.

Measure the frame to the rear rocker box with a shim. Then see if the shim goes back in after a long warm up ride.

A bagger or Dyna may not be a good choice to measure this way due to the isolated mounting of the drive train. But a Softail being rigid, that could be measured that way. 

[kd]

I wish I could remember where I originally got the numbers.  It was some sort of tech paper I found credible.  Obviously not enough to remember the source though.  It does seem to be an accepted parameter though.  It also explains why solids work better in cast barrel engines using heavy base flanges and studs rather than slender full length studs and thin liners.  The TC barrels for example clearly show vertical heat tracks internally that align to the studs.  They wear differently and are somewhat discoloured.  I expect the thin liners and studs do allow more growth than the heavy finned cast barrels.

[wfolarry]

.040 was common with the Evo motors. Measured that more than once.
Twin Cams you would see different #'s but I think .040 is a safe bet.

Consider adjusting them with the limiters off the bottom.  Turn them down to the plunger just touching bottom (pushrod stops spinning)and back them off 1 flat only (pushrod releases and spins).  They will be quiet and when the engine heats up the barrels grow another .040 to .060.  That will put you at a point that will feed oil to the heads.  This method has worked very well for me and other members in the past.   

This is the way I've always adjusted them & never had a problem.