Drilling handlebars - tips needed

[Jim Bronson]

I'll soon be changing bars on my Dyna to 12" apes. I'll need to drill four holes for cable guides. Is there a trick for drilling chrome bars? It seems that the bit will want to skate all over and slide off the bar. They are steel, so it won't be easy to dimple them. I don't have a drill press, so I'll have to use a hand drill and a vice.
Thanks.

[Fugawee]

If You go down about 30 threads here in this Section, You will see a thread saying Drilling Chrome Plate, or something like that.  The responses there may or may not help You out.
I assume that You are talking about the plastic clips to hold the wiring for the H-bar controls.
An alternative to drilling holes would be just to use Zip/Cable Ties.  A lot easier, but You may not like the look.  Speaking of Looks...this is just My opinion only, and I'm not trying to make a major production out of this for You; but if I was putting 12" Apes on a Dyna...I would probably run Internal Wiring for the "cleaner" look.  Good Luck with what You decide.

[drifter]

I used a center punch to make a dimple so that the drill bit wouldn't skate around.  After drilling be sure to de-burr the holes, inside and outside, any sharp edges will cut the wires.  A rubber grommet in each hole will help protect the wires.

[Hossamania]

Some masking or blue tape on the bar will help keep the punch from moving, then use a small bit to drill a pilot hole, then move up in drill sizes until you get to your desired size.
But, I would second the idea of fishing the wires in, a much cleaner install. Many tutorials on this site on methods to install them.

[Jim Bronson]

Running them inside would require cutting them between the backbone and the fork, and I'm way too lazy for that. Come to think of it, I have tiny bits for my Dremel that might work for the initial pilot hole or I may just go with cable ties for now. Maybe the clear ones to blend in with the bars.

While on the subject of bars, are there any "gotchas" for swapping the bars? It seems pretty straightforward to me (famous last words). I'll be replacing the riser bushings at the same time.

[Fugawee]

Not knowing what type of H-bars are presently on the Bike...but will Your existing wiring have enough slack/length to go with 12' Apes without having to "piece" it out by re-splicing?  That may also apply to the Throttle(s), Clutch, and Brake Line that may need to be replaced with longer ones.
In case You are not aware, there are Companies out there that sell a pre-made H-bar kit that has the wiring already inside the Bars.  All You need to do is tell them what size Bar You are going with, and the Model it is.  There are some that are already pre-connectorized for where they plug in under the gas tank.  They will usually offer a complete kit, meaning with new Hand Controls and all the rest of the Cables/Brake Line needed.  And there are kits where You re-use Your existing controls.  It all depends on how much $$$ You want to spend.  It's not that hard to swap them out at all.  I believe it is Hill Country Customs, in Texas is who I have bought them from, with zero regrets.
As far as the Risers go, there are Rubber and like a Teflon bushing out there.  The choice is Yours.  I prefer the Rubber.  I would recommend that You loosen the Nut, or Bolt under the Triple Tree just a little.  Don't totally remove them yet.  Once that the H-bars are removed, it could prove to be a pain in the ass to get them loose.  Be careful on the Risers when loosening that the wrench doesn't say "Hello" to the Gas Tank.  That also applies to the Risers when tightening.  You may also see a Ground Wire attached to one of the Riser bolts/nuts.  Remember that when it's time to re-install.
This is what I normally do concerning this type of work...1=Get the Bike straight on a lift that will allow the Front End to pivot. 2=Protect the Front Fender and Gas Tank with whatever, Towels, Blanket, etc.  3=Remove the Mirrors.  4=Remove the Wire Clips from the H-bars.  Remove the Left/Right Hand Controls and protect them.  I slide White Socks over them for the protection.  Secure the Controls however, and wherever You like so that they don't bounce around while You're doing Your thing.  5=Take a well-deserved break.  6=Remove the Riser Cap(s), and Remove the H-Bars, and Remove the Risers.
I may have left out the Turn Signals, and Grips...but I think You get the picture.  And do pretty much the opposite for the install.
Just make certain that the Front End will pivot left/right with all the Wiring, Cables, Brake Line installed.  You definitely do not want any of them too tight, interfering with turning...or have the wires pull out.  The pre-made "Kits" that are connectorized should plug in under the Gas Tank.  If You go this route, You may have to remove, or at least raise the Tank up to get at them.  Like I said..it's not that difficult.  Just take Your time.  There may be Someone that has a better way of doing it, but this has pretty much worked for Me.  I haven't had to put a hammer to a Gas Tank from frustration in a good number of years.  There are also "colored" Zip Ties should You stay with the exposed wiring.  Chrome plastic as well, in case You may be a "chrome-aholic.
I hope that this may help You out a small bit.  Sorry for the "long wind".  Good Luck.

[Coyote]

Running them inside would require cutting them between the backbone and the fork, and I'm way too lazy for that. Come to think of it, I have tiny bits for my Dremel that might work for the initial pilot hole or I may just go with cable ties for now. Maybe the clear ones to blend in with the bars.

While on the subject of bars, are there any "gotchas" for swapping the bars? It seems pretty straightforward to me (famous last words). I'll be replacing the riser bushings at the same time.

Not sure what year bike you have but I'm pretty sure there's a connector for them pushed down inside the backbone. Pull it out, depin and run through the bars. You may have to loosen the harness a bit.

[Hossamania]

If you're trying to keep it simple, the chrome ty wraps might be the way to go. Or black if those are your bars.

[Jim Bronson]

I think you're right Hoss; the metal ties are the way to go. I remember a long time ago feeding the wiring harness through the backbone of my 2005 lowrider. There was a "service loop" behind the tank that allowed about 12" to be pulled forward and out the grommet in the neck. The conduit needed to be pulled at a right angle to clear the grommet and expose the connector. It was quite the headache, and of course it had to be pulled back into the backbone once the connections were made. It was for connecting supplemental lighting, and I considered it a learning experience, but I don't care to do it again.

Fugawee: I'll print your comments and use them when I do the job. The bushings will be here next week, so I'll just wait for them to get started. I've already checked the wiring, brake line and throttle cable lengths, and there is plenty of extra. THANKS to all.

[Breeze]

I put 12" mini apes on my Dyna years ago. I didn't realize how much added leverage they had and my bars slipped when pushing around the garage. After a few overtightenings, I pulled the threads in the risers and had to go to the next larger bolt size (drill & thread of course). Check out some of the products/tips on the WWW for keeping bars from slipping in the risers.

[Rusticwater]

Jim,
When I installed the internally wired chrome mini-apes (#55801003) on my 2010 FXDC a couple of years ago, I found (with the help of you and others here) the connectors for the handlebar wiring are accessed by removing the plastic harness shield under the backbone and removing the big rubber split grommets on either side of the neck. There's quite a bit of extra wiring harness to work with. There isn't a service loop to "pull through" the backbone like on your 2005 you mentioned, on my 2010 it's just the wiring harness stuffed up in that space. Your current 2013 should be the same (except it's Canbus wiring).

I had first tried just removing the neck grommets but found the connectors were too big to pull through, that's when rigidthumper suggested removing the harness shield to access the harness and unplug the connectors first which made everything much, much easier. I did have to remove the gas tank bolts and slide it back and prop it up a bit to give me better access to the harness shield.

I also took the opportunity to unsnarl and refold the wire harness more neatly than my dealer, which prior to delivery had installed mini apes and the front signal relocation kit, had left it.

Your bike is Canbus which typically means less wires/smaller connectors to work with, you might not have to de-pin the connectors to run them internally.

[Hossamania]

For anybody installing wires thru handlebars or conduit in other situations, this stuff is your friend, the best I found, I use it every day at work as a technician installing network wire.

Klein lubricant

[Fugawee]

Yes, that Klein Lubricant is good stuff.  I/We used that when I was gainfully employed at the Phone Company for pulling Cables thru conduits, or a duct structure.  Regular Ol' Silicone Spray has helped Me out many times as well.

[Appowner]

Unless you've already purchased your bars, I found a lot of manufacturers will drill the bars for you.  I changed out mine some 10 years ago and I was able to get the new bars pre-drilled.

Looks much better!

[calif phil]

Most bars are not dimpled  anymore, so make sure the bars you pick, have the dimples.   I would take the time and run the wires internally.   It looks so much nicer. 

[cheech]

Not sure what year bike you have but I'm pretty sure there's a connector for them pushed down inside the backbone. Pull it out, depin and run through the bars. You may have to loosen the harness a bit.

As said above there is a connector somewhere.

About every bar sold today are slotted for internal wiring.
Just do it.