124" Twin Cam Fatty

[Wookie3011]

Cleaning up and deburring a few areas on the Vulcan Engineering billet rocker bases and R&R Roller's. Just beautiful work. Great price and product to. A nice addition to this build. Thanks Ohio HD. My cases and cylinders where done Thursday but we had Crazy snow and my wife had surgery so, Im going Tuesday to get them. Then the long process of making sure everything is truly good to go, Mock up and clean, Clean and assemble. Its been a long road and way more then I imagined $$$. I sure as heck wasn't going to cheap out on a part or process. I still also gotta CC my already ported heads. Not sure what the deal was there and probably was my communication skills but the head guy didn't CC to make sure I was at 10:1-10:5. Just going to take my time and do everything three times in my head and mock process. Thanks for everyone's input and knowledge. 

[Ohio HD]

First rate parts, as you know I went that same way.

John Sachs gave me his experience with the R&R rocker arms. If they pass his approval they're good to go in my opinion.

I've used the Vulcan billet rocker stands. They're the best fitting that I've ever used.

Hope your wife is doing well.

[itsafatboy]

I used RR rockers in my 116" nice fitting pieces , also used the RR 2 piece cam plate setup its a beast strongest you can get for the cam chest area , and the thayer oil pump for it.  the rocker box stuff i use the SS die cast setup in mine so rocker plate is part of the boxes since they are different , i like the boxes because of the breather setup and the big holes in the middle of the rocker box lets heat out, 

[JSD]

I have Vulcan and S&S rollers and shafts. I fitted grub screws to lock shafts

[Wookie3011]

I used RR rockers in my 116" nice fitting pieces , also used the RR 2 piece cam plate setup its a beast strongest you can get for the cam chest area , and the thayer oil pump for it.  the rocker box stuff i use the SS die cast setup in mine so rocker plate is part of the boxes since they are different , i like the boxes because of the breather setup and the big holes in the middle of the rocker box lets heat out, 

I was warned away from the Thayer for softail models. Apparently since the oil tank is above the cases the Thayer along with a few others allows the oil to drain out of the tank into the cases overnight. I read it somewhere on here digging around in the past threads. Something about it not having a diaphram or maybe a divider? I also seen the R&R camplate full setup with cam chest cover. Looks to be a work of art. R&R is definitely a great product and fairly priced. I ended up getting the daytona pump. I sent you a message in regards to your lifters with limiters, so you know.

[Wookie3011]

Update:
I was hoping to be done by now but, during the heat cycle process I noticed an intake leak in the front cylinder in the form of very unstable O2 call outs. It would jump from 17-13 AFR. The back stayed very stable at 13.8-14.3. Initially I opted to get new seals and start over with the same TB. I instead got a CSR 62MM TB on the way and as suggested by guys way smarter than I, stepped down my injector size from 6.7GPS to 5.3GPS. I'm using VR1 oil for breakin and heat cycles for any of the oil clubbers. So far I'm 3.5 minutes into these cycles. While I wait for the TB to show up, I've been working on my oil Buds and wards fan install to help with heat. Yes, wards. I found a used set online that I replaced one fan in. I couldn't in good conscience support the other. I'm also considering a AC change. Currently I'm running Screamin Eagle elite air breather. It may just be me but the 90° bend as it enters the throttle body doesn't appear to look as if it would promote good velocity. Of course this is all suggestive and a guess. This upgrade and build has been a joy and pleasure to do. I greatly appreciate all the information offered within this site. Its truly a gem for anyone willing to search, read and spend the time.

[Ohio HD]

One thing I would suggest is when you have the bike dyno tuned. Take the 6.7 injectors with you as well.

Assuming you're looking for around 150 rear wheel HP, that's "about" 165 HP at the crank. Based on fuel needed to supply that much HP based on two fuel injectors, 6.5gr/sec is needed when running at an 80% injector duty cycle. You don't really want to max out the injectors.







You may get to a nominal 150 HP with 5.3 injectors, but they'll most likely be at 100% duty cycle. What happens then is the motor breaks up from lack of fuel.


Here's a 124" example and the components they used.

Zippers 124"


HDSP 124"

[Wookie3011]

Thanks OhioHD, that's the hope! I would love to get 150 squared as that was the target. when I started this build it was with the mindset of money isn't a consideration the target was. Will definitely take them with me when it's dyno tuned. If it doesn't get there, I'm going to look at how to get there and why it isn't there. My guess will be the heads and comp. Those Milwaukees 8 with 4 valves per cylinder sure make it easier to get there.

[kd]

Thanks OhioHD, that's the hope! I would love to get 150 squared as that was the target. when I started this build it was with the mindset of money isn't a consideration the target was. Will definitely take them with me when it's dyno tuned. If it doesn't get there, I'm going to look at how to get there and why it isn't there. My guess will be the heads and comp. Those Milwaukees 8 with 4 valves per cylinder sure make it easier to get there.

I'm using 6.2 gps (48.2#/hr) in my 120 and getting the 150.   HPI recommends them for engines making over 120 HP.   Parking lot and city traffic manners (660 SM amd 62/64 HPI TB) a A good tuning device and tuner and Bob's yur uncle.

[Ohio HD]

Thanks OhioHD, that's the hope! I would love to get 150 squared as that was the target. when I started this build it was with the mindset of money isn't a consideration the target was. Will definitely take them with me when it's dyno tuned. If it doesn't get there, I'm going to look at how to get there and why it isn't there. My guess will be the heads and comp. Those Milwaukees 8 with 4 valves per cylinder sure make it easier to get there.

I'm using 6.2 gps (48.2#/hr) in my 120 and getting the 150.   HPI recommends them for engines making over 120 HP.   Parking lot and city traffic manners (660 SM amd 62/64 HPI TB) a A good tuning device and tuner and Bob's yur uncle.

Are these 6.2gps rated at 3 Bar (43.5 PSI)  or 4 Bar (58.0 PSI)?

Buying injectors at an FI specialty shop they normally rate the flow at 3 Bar. HD uses 4 Bar ratings on their injectors. So you have to convert them.

[kd]

Thanks OhioHD, that's the hope! I would love to get 150 squared as that was the target. when I started this build it was with the mindset of money isn't a consideration the target was. Will definitely take them with me when it's dyno tuned. If it doesn't get there, I'm going to look at how to get there and why it isn't there. My guess will be the heads and comp. Those Milwaukees 8 with 4 valves per cylinder sure make it easier to get there.

I'm using 6.2 gps (48.2#/hr) in my 120 and getting the 150.   HPI recommends them for engines making over 120 HP.   Parking lot and city traffic manners (660 SM amd 62/64 HPI TB) a A good tuning device and tuner and Bob's yur uncle.

Are these 6.2gps rated at 3 Bar (43.5 PSI)  or 4 Bar (58.0 PSI)?

Buying injectors at an FI specialty shop they normally rate the flow at 3 Bar. HD uses 4 Bar ratings on their injectors. So you have to convert them.

That I couldn't answer without calling them.  When I bought mine (yellow band) Jimmy told me they were set up for Harley's, tested, rated and matched.  I don't recall him saying anything else on the rating.  He knew what they were going into and it was with one of their first 9 62/64 throttle bodies.  The first 3 were test mules in the previous months.  That doesn't say what pressure though but it "may" be safe to assume at 4 bar.  The numbers I gave are their advertised output.