APM Clutch (i.e. Pro Clutch)

[JW113]

Gotcha! And yes, you are spot on with that. It's amazing how the most obvious is so easily overlooked. Right there hiding in plain sight.

"Oh, it CAN'T be that!"

 

-JW

[JSD]

Zippers had one, V-Twin 18-8240 , Custom Chrome 15-060 , quite a few around

Is this the strengthening ring for clutch hub ? 

[FSG]

Is this the strengthening ring for clutch hub ?

Dr Google will tell you it is, it'll also show some pix and destructions.

[JSD]

Is this the strengthening ring for clutch hub ?

Dr Google will tell you it is, it'll also show some pix and destructions.

Thanks FSG as i have a cracked BDL hub, at keyway and fitted a new one to a customers bike so i think i will get it and fit   Strengthening ring. Thanks again mate 

[david lee]

what does that do ?

[kd]

what does that do ?

Go back and read the posts from post #33 on. 

[FSG]

not my pix but ....

tighten the hub too much on the tapered mainshaft OR just dump the clutch to often can result in a hub split at the keyway




fitting a support ring can and does help

[JSD]

I recently installed an APM Comp Master clutch in my '77. It is essentially identical to the Rivera Pro Clutch, and my understanding is that the two were designed by the same guy. While the clutch works, and solved my slipping problem, the force at the lever is off the chart. I called APM this morning, and got essentially zero help. He was convinced that I installed it wrong, or that the cable was binding. If you're at all familiar with this type of clutch, unless you get the disks/plates out of order, there is essentially no way to install it wrong that I can see. Before installing it, the lever force with the stock 10 spring clutch was hardly anything, and I didn't touch the cable when installing the APM. Just for grins, I removed the clutch adjust screw, and the clutch rod moves out with essentially zero effort. It ain't binding. And the cable is teflon lined with a touch of silicone oil. Friction is not the problem.

Also for grins, I used a linear force gauge and checked the clutch lever on my '92 Evo: 8 lbs pull force. Then checked my '04 Road King with SE heavy duty diaphragm: 13 lbs. And the Shovelhead with APM: 32 lbs pull force!

I'm at a loss. Everything that I have read, and what the APM dude told me today, the diaphragm clutch should have much less lever force than the stock 10 spring clutch. It ain't. Much, much more force than the stock clutch. I am at a loss what to do now. Any suggestions, other than pull the freakin' thing out.

-JW

JW is the part no 1056-0002 comp master made by American Prime. It shows a steel inner hub (no cracked key ways) but say for dry clutch use. i am running a sealed primary with oil for primary chain lube. Has anyone used one as in my situation? 

[72fl]

I recently installed an APM Comp Master clutch in my '77. It is essentially identical to the Rivera Pro Clutch, and my understanding is that the two were designed by the same guy. While the clutch works, and solved my slipping problem, the force at the lever is off the chart. I called APM this morning, and got essentially zero help. He was convinced that I installed it wrong, or that the cable was binding. If you're at all familiar with this type of clutch, unless you get the disks/plates out of order, there is essentially no way to install it wrong that I can see. Before installing it, the lever force with the stock 10 spring clutch was hardly anything, and I didn't touch the cable when installing the APM. Just for grins, I removed the clutch adjust screw, and the clutch rod moves out with essentially zero effort. It ain't binding. And the cable is teflon lined with a touch of silicone oil. Friction is not the problem.

Also for grins, I used a linear force gauge and checked the clutch lever on my '92 Evo: 8 lbs pull force. Then checked my '04 Road King with SE heavy duty diaphragm: 13 lbs. And the Shovelhead with APM: 32 lbs pull force!

I'm at a loss. Everything that I have read, and what the APM dude told me today, the diaphragm clutch should have much less lever force than the stock 10 spring clutch. It ain't. Much, much more force than the stock clutch. I am at a loss what to do now. Any suggestions, other than pull the freakin' thing out.

-JW

JW is the part no 1056-0002 comp master made by American Prime. It shows a steel inner hub (no cracked key ways) but say for dry clutch use. i am running a sealed primary with oil for primary chain lube. Has anyone used one as in my situation? 

I run this one and put just enough oil/ATF to touch the bottom of the clutch basket, never any issue's. I think 76shuvlinoff does also.

[JW113]

JW is the part no 1056-0002 comp master made by American Prime. It shows a steel inner hub (no cracked key ways) but say for dry clutch use. i am running a sealed primary with oil for primary chain lube. Has anyone used one as in my situation? 

Yes, that very one. And like 72FL, I run exactly like that. Sealed primary, ATF up to the bottom of the clutch basket, no issues at all. In fact, when ever I take the clutch apart, the plates are essentially dry, little to no oil gets on them. There is really only enough oil for the starter ring gear to contact and throw it around on the chain. Centrifugal force keeps the clutch plates dry.

-JW

[kd]

JW is the part no 1056-0002 comp master made by American Prime. It shows a steel inner hub (no cracked key ways) but say for dry clutch use. i am running a sealed primary with oil for primary chain lube. Has anyone used one as in my situation? 

Yes, that very one. And like 72FL, I run exactly like that. Sealed primary, ATF up to the bottom of the clutch basket, no issues at all. In fact, when ever I take the clutch apart, the plates are essentially dry, little to no oil gets on them. There is really only enough oil for the starter ring gear to contact and throw it around on the chain. Centrifugal force keeps the clutch plates dry.

-JW

And that's the way it should be.

[76shuvlinoff]

 

[72fl]

I just took my Primary all the way down to install a new Main seal spacer from Ray's and a James Supernut. What I don't like about the Rivera Pro is the 4 Button Head bolts that go through the Hub and they tell you to use a lot of Anti Seize on the Nut side to ease in removal. I had 1 when after I Red Loctited it that when I was snugging up the last nut to assembly Spin, so here we go removing Everything again and Pressing out the Hub and redoing the Loctite. After letting it sit overnight and finish the install, I thought to myself they should use a Wheel Stud type Bolt in here with Splines that as you tighten it 1 TIME it will be in there Permanently and if the occasssion arise's that it needs to be removed for some unknown reason stripped thread etc. Press It Out when you Press the Hub out. Done

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[ghostrider]

Under those button head bolts is a great place for Nord-locks

[72fl]

If I ever take it down again that will absolutely be a consideration, the other thing is the Pulley is an alloy of some type, not sure what it is as I was considering other alternatives and threw a magnet on it to see and no sticky as I suspected