D&D Boarzilla Help

[Wookie3011]

I have 2016 FatBoy S that I'm at the end of a 124 build on. I purchased the D&D Boarzilla. It just plain don't fit? I had to step on the bottom leg of the exhaust to spread it out to get it to go into the 110 heads. Now when tightening it up it just won't go all the way into the heads. About 1/4 a inch out of each Head. I'm super frustrated and this isn't by far my first exhaust install. It's about to go in the trash. Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks

[ChromeWhore]

I wonder if you got a Boarzilla for Softail. They do make a Boarzilla for Softail but some wonder if the pipe would hit the saddle bag bcos the pipe curves upwards on the tail.

You definitely want the 1(7/8)in pipe otherwise you'll lose some ponies using 1(1/4)in pipe. Call Lenard at D&D. You might actually have the Boarzilla for touring bikes.

CW

[Wookie3011]

I checked the part # as it says on the box you open it you own it. Hell of a guarantee. I'll call and talk to him. I can't get sockets to the nuts because the studs are to close to the pipe. I'll give them a call.

[rigidthumper]

Post a pic of the current assembly? Maybe we can see something? It's a "hold it just right, get the rear pipe into the port, then rotate the pipe to get the front pipe into the port. Sometimes the top fin on 124 cylinders keep it from seating, and have to be trimmed. Mine did.
Patience, is key here. Adjustments always have to be made, because this isn't a factory "bolt together" project.

[rigidthumper]

Here's a pic

[Wookie3011]

Interesting, I'll look harder at what maybe blocking it. I've tried posting pictures and It gives me a 500 server error

[Jim Bronson]

I checked the part # as it says on the box you open it you own it. Hell of a guarantee. I'll call and talk to him. I can't get sockets to the nuts because the studs are to close to the pipe. I'll give them a call.

That's a pretty crappy attitude if it is their mistake. I recently bought V&H Pro Pipe, and they shipped the wrong headers with the kit. We didn't notice until we were installing it. Since they had discontinued the Pro Pipe for Dynas, they gave me a full refund. I since found a new set on ebay for way less.

[Wookie3011]

I checked the part # as it says on the box you open it you own it. Hell of a guarantee. I'll call and talk to him. I can't get sockets to the nuts because the studs are to close to the pipe. I'll give them a call.

That's a pretty crappy attitude if it is their mistake. I recently bought V&H Pro Pipe, and they shipped the wrong headers with the kit. We didn't notice until we were installing it. Since they had discontinued the Pro Pipe for Dynas, they gave me a full refund. I since found a new set on ebay for way less.

It was late and I was super Frustrated. To be fair I'm sure D&D have heard and seen it all. I'm also sure that if it was the wrong part they would make good on it. So, the biggest problem I'm having is being able to get sockets into the area to tighten the flange nuts now. What would be the issue with buying different nuts for this. The stock are just to wide with the shelf they have and the underside of the exaust. The round shelf rubs the exhaust pipe while trying to bolt them in.

[kd]

If you check with fastener suppliers, their catalogues often give the dimensional specs on their products in the form of a blueprint drawing.  It seems to me the smaller diameter of a 12 point flange nut would consequently have a smaller diameter flange base.  Have you looked at that?  If all other aspects are not a problem the different nut design (as you indicate) may be the way to resolve it.

[Wookie3011]

I picked up a few variations of the nuts and am working with it now. It does appear as if the rear cylinder will have to be worked down a little for the flange to clear. Thanks Rigidthumper for the heads up. I appreciate all the help.

[Wookie3011]

Here's what I'm dealing with. I just can't get a socket on either. Guess I'll look for a super thin socket online or create one. I can get to the front one if I pull the ABS pump but the back one is a monster to get to as it gives no room for socket to crab it and it's angle

[Wookie3011]

How far off the head should the flanges be? I have about .250also anyone know what these are for? Has 2 of them in the package with o2 bungs?

[Wookie3011]

This is fully torqued down. is the gap normal? My old exhaust had very thick flanges with a indentation in them so they where almost to the head. Thanks

[Tynker]

It looks like you cracked the flange ..

[Ohio HD]

Which exhaust gaskets are you using? Different styles of gaskets effects on how deep the pipe will go into the head. The thick OEM style with a tapered face should not be used with the D&D systems. You should use a thinner performance gasket. Two thicknesses that work well are 0.125" thick and 0.240" thick.

Do not use these.



Thinner like these are good. 0.125" thick



These are 0.240" thick and work very well with D&D pipes.

[Wookie3011]

I used the ones that D&D supplied with the exhaust. Kinda odd balls that looked like 2 larger loops for keys. They where super thin probably about .125. So it looks to far off the head huh.

[Wookie3011]

It looks like you cracked the flange ..

I'm not seeing that? Where do you see a crack in the flange? I think I see what your seeing. Thats part of the casting if it's right below the bolt.

[kd]

I used the ones that D&D supplied with the exhaust. Kinda odd balls that looked like 2 larger loops for keys. They where super thin probably about .125. So it looks to far off the head huh.

Are they metal like these on post #25 or a rounded hollow copper?  As Ohio states in that post, they are not known for their sealing qualities.  The 2 choices he mentioned in the earlier post here are IMO about the best. Actually I haven't tried the .240 ones yet but If John Sachs lies them they are good.  The Thinner ones will pull the pipe into the head about 1/8" and it looks like you have the room.  If you use a softer flexible gasket it can end up like the pic Ohio said to not use. (those were SE)

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,117495.0/all.html

These gaskets work best with the squared tip header.  I am assuming your pipe is not a bulb tip shape.

[Wookie3011]

I'll get the cometics coming here then. The gaskets they supplied sure didn't seem to be very thick or have alot of surface area to allow for that crushed seal. I wondered the same thing when I seen them. I honestly thought they where metal rings in the bag. They litterally looked like larger key ring loops for a key set. That extra stroke and height on the cylinders made it a PITA to get them installed. Even the mounts where off for the muffler. Its on now though. You cannot see attachments on this board.

[Tynker]

It looks like you cracked the flange ..

I'm not seeing that? Where do you see a crack in the flange? I think I see what your seeing. Thats part of the casting if it's right below the bolt.

What I am seeing is right ABOVE the stud.

[itsafatboy]

ARP has the small 12 point nuts that work well , those gaskets you got with the pipe are like the metal cometic ones they worked well for me ,  i ended up getting the DYNA boarzilla pipe for my stroked 116" 4 5/8" fatboy dyna pipe just fit a lot better around the cam plate and the oil tank but thats just me and the dyna boarzilla is a little different in header length , and had to fab a mounting bracket ,

[Wookie3011]

Thanks for the replies. I did finally get it good to go. The considerations I hadn't considered was the additional length in cylinder height. Everything was off. Even the frame mount as itsafatboy mentioned. She sounds great for sure. Patiently going through the heat cycles. On the 3rd one. I'm keeping in mind that pistons and cylinders don't go bad. They are murdered. I also found it very interesting the many different engine builders and the many different first start heat Cycles methodology each uses or recommends. No wrong answer, each has found a method that works for them and if it ain't broke don't fix it. These same builders wager these processes against their own wallets. I love this forum! The search option is a life saver! So much information shared by so many beautiful minds in the engine building tuning world. It's second to none. Thanks

[Raleigh111]

Thanks for the replies. I did finally get it good to go. The considerations I hadn't considered was the additional length in cylinder height. Everything was off. Even the frame mount as itsafatboy mentioned. She sounds great for sure. Patiently going through the heat cycles. On the 3rd one. I'm keeping in mind that pistons and cylinders don't go bad. They are murdered. I also found it very interesting the many different engine builders and the many different first start heat Cycles methodology each uses or recommends. No wrong answer, each has found a method that works for them and if it ain't broke don't fix it. These same builders wager these processes against their own wallets. I love this forum! The search option is a life saver! So much information shared by so many beautiful minds in the engine building tuning world. It's second to none. Thanks

A lot of my projects I would not of attempted if not for the knowledge on this forum. Second to none.  What baffle did you end up using and can you say why? I know they had 2 choices.

[Wookie3011]

Perforated wrapped Baffle. Why? Because Rigidthumper said so.