Excessive breather puke

[FLDavetrain]

'16 FLH. It's a new event after 1200 miles on 131" build. Here's what I've noticed;
Takes 10+ miles to show up and only at that point it starts oil pressure fluctuation 14-30 psi w mild throttle, usually bounces between 23-30 and doesn't seem to stay at one number for more than 2 secs. Oil starts dumping (2-3 oz ea head, rear more). It's externally vented. Tank vent also. It's always had 13 ish in the sump (sns cases) occasionally more. Bike dyno'd 150+ and never felt sluggish from sump. No excessive heat for what bike is. Running oil near bottom of stick.
Bike had new stamped breathers w new build. Pulled those for lack of ideas and installed vulcan set up w support plate/shafts/breathers (no change). Open to ideas and help, much obliged

[kd]

Were the breathers assembled properly.  There have been reports that when installed the way they are packaged they act like you describe.  That however doesn't account for your oil pressure fluctuation.  If that is proven to be occurring on a mechanical gauge too it makes me think air cavitation.  Possible your 13 0z sump finding (rather large) is the precursor to a problem with the sump pickup and now it is delivering shots of air to the pressure side. Maybe an O-ring issue?

[FLDavetrain]

Were the breathers assembled properly.  There have been reports that when installed the way they are packaged they act like you describe.  That however doesn't account for your oil pressure fluctuation.  If that is proven to be occurring on a mechanical gauge too it makes me think air cavitation.  Possible your 13 0z sump finding (rather large) is the precursor to a problem with the sump pickup and now it is delivering shots of air to the pressure side. Maybe an O-ring issue?

I've read somewhere here the SnS cases hold more at sump. Breathers are correct install and pretty confident on pump oring unless that can change in 1200 miles. Mechanical gauge has been checked. Bike has jagg 10 row. When I pulled the oem stamped breathers there was gunk (glue) I'm assuming from the gasket to metal surface that was peeling off. Not what u want to see and is there outside chance some got away and blocked a passage? Plate/pump are also SnS. This is a new event but sump volume same since start. Would it be worth while to drop oil pan and put a suction on the return and feed hole? The rear wheel coming off for rubber anyways

[FLDavetrain]

Also cases have been modified for stock oiling

[Ohio HD]

Did you check the operation of the piston oilers prior to assembling the motor? Also could be dirt in one of the oilers. They get oil pressure from the feed that comes from the main lifter feed.

[FLDavetrain]

Did you check the operation of the piston oilers prior to assembling the motor? Also could be dirt in one of the oilers. They get oil pressure from the feed that comes from the main lifter feed.

Oilers checked on install. Plugs look good, cylinder walls good, no oil intake track or exhaust. Once it gets to that 10+ mile ride it just pours out non stop it seems

[Ohio HD]

It didn't have this condition at all when dyno tuned?

[Ohio HD]

Did you perform a leakdown test?

[FLDavetrain]

It didn't have this condition at all when dyno tuned?

Correct

Did you perform a leakdown test?

I'd have to take it somewhere for that, tried leakdown years ago and failed at it

[FXDBI]

It didn't have this condition at all when dyno tuned?

Correct

Did you perform a leakdown test?

I'd have to take it somewhere for that, tried leakdown years ago and failed at it

Try a compression test first.  Bob

[plumberglen]

following , similar issues on 106 rebuild

[Ohio HD]

Who drilled the case? If the feed hole were drilled a little to deep, even slightly breaking through the inner wall. It would act as you described. Doesn't do it until up to temperature and the oil thins a but. But then it would have done that on the dyno. That part doesn't make any sense. On the dyno it got plenty warm, should have seen the same problem immediately.   

FYI, I don't know how the leak down can be "messed up". All you need is 100 PSI air line pressure, put a piston on top dead center compression stroke, start putting air into the cylinder and watch the gauges. Block the wheel, brakes etc., so the motor doesn't turn over during the test. Do the test when the motor is cold. Then when it's hot to compare.

[FLDavetrain]

Struggled to keep piston stable last time I tried a leak down. I'll run comp test and give leak down another go this weekend. Thanks for the help Ohio   

[rigidthumper]

I use this to do leakdown tests.

[Buglet]

  That is the tool to use, you can check it with the piston were ever you want. TDC, BDC, or in the middle. It's a good way to see in you have piston cylinder problems.

[Ohio HD]

I use this to do leakdown tests.

I have one as well. Just don't forget that it's in there. 

Truthfully, I tie a small rope to the  eye in the tag, and run it up to the right grip to keep my feeble mind in check.

[FLDavetrain]

Here's the plugs, TTS tune, 13.2 ish cruise, closed loop. Ordered that handy Jim's tool for leak down

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[FLDavetrain]

Oops misprint, 14.2/3:1 cruise

[Admiral Akbar]

'16 FLH. It's a new event after 1200 miles on 131" build. Here's what I've noticed;
Takes 10+ miles to show up and only at that point it starts oil pressure fluctuation 14-30 psi w mild throttle, usually bounces between 23-30 and doesn't seem to stay at one number for more than 2 secs. Oil starts dumping (2-3 oz ea head, rear more). It's externally vented. Tank vent also. It's always had 13 ish in the sump (sns cases) occasionally more. Bike dyno'd 150+ and never felt sluggish from sump. No excessive heat for what bike is. Running oil near bottom of stick.
Bike had new stamped breathers w new build. Pulled those for lack of ideas and installed vulcan set up w support plate/shafts/breathers (no change). Open to ideas and help, much obliged

With 150 hp, it's hard to tell if the motor is sumping.  The oil pressure fluctuation might be part of it tho.. Oil level in the tanks drops low enough to suck air. On my 131, I had issues with breather blowing oil and sumping on SnS cases with a Fueling pump, went to SnS 3 gerotor and the problem got much better. Sumping was most noticeable when cruising at 70 / freeway and temps above 90F.  Still have to use a breather catch can tho.. Get mostly grey poupon and water.  Since the rebuild with the SnS pump, the motor has run like a swiss watch..

[FLDavetrain]

'16 FLH. It's a new event after 1200 miles on 131" build. Here's what I've noticed;
Takes 10+ miles to show up and only at that point it starts oil pressure fluctuation 14-30 psi w mild throttle, usually bounces between 23-30 and doesn't seem to stay at one number for more than 2 secs. Oil starts dumping (2-3 oz ea head, rear more). It's externally vented. Tank vent also. It's always had 13 ish in the sump (sns cases) occasionally more. Bike dyno'd 150+ and never felt sluggish from sump. No excessive heat for what bike is. Running oil near bottom of stick.
Bike had new stamped breathers w new build. Pulled those for lack of ideas and installed vulcan set up w support plate/shafts/breathers (no change). Open to ideas and help, much obliged

With 150 hp, it's hard to tell if the motor is sumping.  The oil pressure fluctuation might be part of it tho.. Oil level in the tanks drops low enough to suck air. On my 131, I had issues with breather blowing oil and sumping on SnS cases with a Fueling pump, went to SnS 3 gerotor and the problem got much better. Sumping was most noticeable when cruising at 70 / freeway and temps above 90F.  Still have to use a breather catch can tho.. Get mostly grey poupon and water.  Since the rebuild with the SnS pump, the motor has run like a swiss watch..

Happy for you. My Casio needs something.
This bike has had piston failure w metal transfer on prior build. Flushed oil pan much as possible til it ran clear. However not opening up the top plate, is there anything regarding the pan that could be blocked and cause these symptoms? If anyone can enlighten me on that.

[FLDavetrain]

Front 210 rear 198 psi 100* head temp
Stage 5 R&R casting
And 20 oz in sump today so ya it's not returning to tank

[Ohio HD]

Just FYI, I would never reuse a 2009 and up oil pan if there were motor damage involved. There's no way to know that it's really clean and that there aren't any metal chips / slivers. Some guys have milled the casting rivets away, drilled and tapped for fasteners so it can be cleaned properly.

This is one that Mega Flo did. He can fix you up.
Mega Flo Touring oil Pan

That's how HD makes the SE pans, with removeable fasteners.
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Make sure to look at the pump when you get in there.

[FSG]

I use this to do leakdown tests.

 

Jims USA Mighty Bite Flywheel Lock Tool

[FLDavetrain]

Just FYI, I would never reuse a 2009 and up oil pan if there were motor damage involved. There's no way to know that it's really clean and that there aren't any metal chips / slivers. Some guys have milled the casting rivets away, drilled and tapped for fasteners so it can be cleaned properly.

This is one that Mega Flo did. He can fix you up.
Mega Flo Touring oil Pan

That's how HD makes the SE pans, with removeable fasteners.
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Make sure to look at the pump when you get in there.

Thanks. I discovered after the fact about taking off top plate and redoing. SE oversized doesn't fit w SnS cases I think. So a new pan should've gone in, have one sitting here now and probably will replace it next before going in cam chest. I've dumped oil so many times already and never a sign of debris but I know that's not whole picture. A good look at the pump for sure might be required but it's hard to believe the pump oring is an issue. I'm certainly capable of a mistake but in the 20 ish times I've done a cam chest, never f'd up that oring. Those areas get extreme care every time. Now if there's some other reason like it needs another smaller oring behind the fat one to increase seal pressure I don't know, not aware if that's possible on these cases. It's all S&S down there.

[FLDavetrain]

So was curious. Here's pic under the case right in area of where scavenge pick up would be (I think), is there any chance one of these screws could block the pick up or interfere if it protruded too far up in the case?