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62MM TB alignment

Started by Wookie3011, May 26, 2022, 07:32:24 AM

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Wookie3011

What do you all think? This is with the TB bolted and snug to the heads The intake manifold is loose and not tightened and the no O-Ring between the TB and intake. Just metal to metal .020 between the TB and intake.

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Ohio HD

There should be no gap.

Order of installation.

1 - TB to manifold bolt together.

2 - TB assembly place on motor, hand tighten intake fittings allowing slight movement of the TB.

3 - Install air breather backing plate to TB and heads. Hand tighten very snug to the heads, and the backing plat to the TB.

4 - Tighten manifold intake fittings a little each side to try and distribute the load evenly, so that the TB doesn't slide all the way to one side.

5 - Tighten all fasteners 




Wookie3011


Wookie3011

Ohio, I was bolting up the intake loose to the heads and TB tothe heads snug to see what kind of alignment and gap I have. This was suggested. I'll install as you have said. Thanks for responding.

Ohio HD

Its ok, to put the manifold on first if you like. Leave the clamps fasteners hand snug, allowing the manifold to move. But then the next step is the TB to manifold, and get that tight before proceeding. Meaning no gaps. Did you have the backing plate to TB gasket in place? 

kd

Quote from: Ohio HD on June 04, 2022, 12:03:12 PMIts ok, to put the manifold on first if you like. Leave the clamps fasteners hand snug, allowing the manifold to move. But then the next step is the TB to manifold, and get that tight before proceeding. Meaning no gaps. Did you have the backing plate to TB gasket in place? 

 :agree: You can't tighten the manifold until you get the throttle body and backing plate assembly up in place with finger tight fasteners.  It's impossible to know if the manifold is on the correct plane to match the throttle body and it may need a slight rotation to get it there.  With the throttle body, gasket and backing plate assembled when you attempt to fit it you will get a read on if the backing plate to the heads or throttle body have gaps. If the throttle body has the gap, I like to add a gasket to the breather base until the gap moves out to the head mounting.  I prefer the mounting from the base to the head breathers to have a slight gap and use the S&S rubber coated shims to fill that gap. All in that order and then perform the tightening from the manifold out.
KD

Wookie3011

She's good to go for now :SM: I didn't particularly like the feel of the intake seals on the CSR 62MM. I have 4 different sets and all but one seemed like It didn't pertrude out of the flange like I thought it should. Did it stick out of the flange? Yes, but not a lot that's for sure. All but 1 was tight around the intake flange. I used the correct ones. I would love to get one that's tight around the flange but protruding out the flange for a great press fit. Only time will tell if this will hold up. I still feel like the intake manifold is not wide enough. It's what HPI gave me but...

Wookie3011

June 05, 2022, 08:52:14 AM #32 Last Edit: June 05, 2022, 08:58:52 AM by Wookie3011
Quote from: Ohio HD on June 04, 2022, 12:03:12 PMIts ok, to put the manifold on first if you like. Leave the clamps fasteners hand snug, allowing the manifold to move. But then the next step is the TB to manifold, and get that tight before proceeding. Meaning no gaps. Did you have the backing plate to TB gasket in place? 

At that point I didn't have the Oring in place. I did find I needed to use .018 on the front .026 on the rear to not have it push or pull on either side  in the end I did it as you both described and it left a gap between the HPI breather set offs and the backing plate that was easy to feeler gauge and shim. Plus I had a good view of the gaps 360°  between the manifold Flanges and manifold that would tattle tale of any push or pull. I also used a magnetic degree base to make sure they where both on the same plane.

Wookie3011


Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Wookie3011

Quote from: Hossamania on June 05, 2022, 09:25:01 AMNow go ride!

Still waiting on my date with Joe Lyons. The 28th is my dyno tune date. Just PATIENTLY waiting around. That's the soonest he could get me in. I didn't spend all this money for a half-wit to tune my bike "Me" :bike: it still is all over the place on the WBo2 in the front BUT I've been told and have to agree since propane didn't produce any results that is due to the reversion or the cams at idle. Sounds way nasty though. On another note I've tried installing the Oil Bud 3 times now. First time the lines where to tight for my liking. 2nd time I still didn't like the way the input line was routed so had a line custom made. 3rd time figured out the oil filter won't fit because of the larger width of the cylinders. I use the K&N With the Nut at the end. If I put the Oil Bud after the WBo2 I get this issue if it's after the WBo2 the input side is blocked by my ABS bracket. I'll wait until after the dyno tune then switch it back to NBo2s and drop Target Tune. I guess there is the option of relocating the wbo2 but after the tune it's not like I'm going to be using the WB's after the tune. That's where it's at right now and my thoughts on it.