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Compensator noise in new build

Started by Jim Bronson, June 11, 2022, 05:44:43 PM

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Jim Bronson

The tech delivered my bike today with S&S BB 110 cylinders, 10.5 pistons, S&S 585 cams, and free-flowing intake and exhaust. It currently has a base PV map from Dynojet. We ran it in the garage to continue the heat cycling process, and when he shut it down, there was a lot of compensator noise. He mentioned I may need a new compensator, such as a Darkhorse Man-Of-War to quiet it down. Is this a good solution? Does the brand of primary oil have any effect on the noise?

2013 Dyna Super Glide.
Thanks
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

harpwrench

June 11, 2022, 06:01:40 PM #1 Last Edit: June 11, 2022, 06:14:49 PM by harpwrench
My brother tried the man-of-war and took it back out because it was noisy. I think the SE comp is the way to go. I have over 100k on mine with half of that over 130hp.

kd

June 11, 2022, 06:43:12 PM #2 Last Edit: June 11, 2022, 07:57:12 PM by kd
The 2014+ SE comp is a different animal than the earlier ones.  It can be tuned with shims from Harley.  There's a sticky in the twin cam section worth reading.  It's even highlighted in red. I have been beating on one for a few years now and no complaints about knocking or kicking back, but it has been set up as per the Instruction sheet.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,13484.0.html
KD

Jim Bronson

I can't believe the compensator is toast already. The bike only has 3800 miles. Yes, it has been a garage queen. I've put about 1000 on it since I bought it in January '22. The noise only started after the BB kit with cams was installed last week. I would rather try to quiet it down than put money in a new compensator to replace a nearly-new OEM version.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

Hossamania

It could be the adjuster out of adjustment. It can be adjusted while riding, when warm while riding in 2nd gear, bring it up to about 3000 rpm, crack the throttle and release, it usually sets the tension properly.
Tough to do on a motor being broken in.
Get it broken in, tuned, take it for some rides, replace the comp if necessary.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

kd

June 11, 2022, 08:04:26 PM #5 Last Edit: June 11, 2022, 08:12:47 PM by kd
Do a search and you will find many threads.  There is a remedy to reduce the chuckle and knock in the earlier version of TC comps by adding a small curved bellows spring. 

First make sure your idle is set high enough.  If you want "potato" you will get "potato clack" as it hunts.  Too low of an idle combined with a raunchy cam idle set too low will cause your problem.

BTW, I am with Hoss.  A new engine untuned is risky.  I missed that it was a fresh build.  (well I saw it but got too involved in the add a spring cure lol)  If your idle is below 1050 rpm it's evidence of needing to be tuned.  Engine damage can be swift.  Getb it to a tuner before your hard earned money in the engine build is gone.
KD

harpwrench

Imagine that it's because it hasn't been tuned yet, the VE can be way off on the base map

Jim Bronson

Many thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye on it for the break-in period and then start tuning. I used 3 PV auto tune sessions when it was stock 96 with SE255. When I was done, it ran fine, and I never noticed any comp noise. The tech performed three heat cycles before he delivered it. I never noticed the noise until the idle speed went low today in my garage. Then it made lots of noise as it was shutting down. I'll be starting break-in tomorrow. Thanks again.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.