Front wheel spacer orientation

[Jim Bronson]

I'm replacing the front rotor on my 2013 fxdc (non ABS). The SM specifies to orient the spacers with the chamfered end facing the wheel. For the life of me, I can't see any difference in the ends even under a magnifier. Both ends are very slightly chamfered on the inside. What am I missing?

[Coyote]

Then don't worry about it. 

[Jim Bronson]

I even looked up aftermarket replacements from several vendors, and they specify that they are interchangeable. I wish the MOCO would revise their manuals so those those of us with nit-picky syndrome wouldn't be so anxious about things like this. It is all back together; testing tomorrow.

[fleetmechanic]

The front wheel spacers with 3 lines near one side don't seem to matter either.  The 3 lines may just denote
front wheel.

[Jim Bronson]

Thank you fleetmechanic. Yes, mine have the three grooves around the circumference. They appear identical, so I put it back together. I'll be testing the Arlen Ness big brake rotor tomorrow.

[Coyote]

Not sure why but I always put the lines out board.  Maybe I saw them that way early on. I can't remember.  Lol

[Jim Bronson]

I completed the rotor testing today. The brake works much better than stock. I actually have a front brake now. There's a little extra free play in the lever, but I'm guessing that's because the Ness rotor is thinner.

[kd]

The master cylinder should self adjust with fluid the same way it does as the pads wear.  Did you change anything in the cylinder or lever?

[Ohio HD]

As KD said the system should adjust. The caliper piston will retract about 0.010" when the brake is released. Also make sure the bracket they gave you for the caliper is keeping the caliper in parallel to the brake rotor. Also that the caliper isn't flexing when the brake is applied due to the adapter bracket. I've not seen these in person, so maybe the bracket is very strong, just throwing it out there as a possible issue.

Just curious, how much thinner is the rotor that the OEM rotor?

[kd]

Runout on a rotor will kick the shoes back causing a larger air gap requiring more lever travel before you feel the handle going to work.  Maybe do a check for excessive runout with a dial gauge.

[Jim Bronson]

1. I had the brakes serviced a few weeks ago by my favorite tech. New Lyndall pads, flush and fill.
2. I didn't do anything but replace the rotor.
3. The stock rotor is 0.25" and the Ness is 0.19".
4. The adapter is a billet piece and is very well made. There's no way it can get out of alignment.

It is like having power brakes versus the stock rotor. I can measure runout sometime if I can find my indicator.

[Ohio HD]

I'm going to make a prediction, there's a reason they made the rotor 0.060" thinner. Maybe they expect that the rotor will have some runout.   

[Ohio HD]

Also, have you tried pumping the front lever to see if the play you have gets smaller?

[kd]

Also, have you tried pumping the front lever to see if the play you have gets smaller?

Without rotating the wheel and with rotating it.  If it pumps up and stays better without rotating it and rotating it puts the free play back, that will be a pretty decent indication of runout.

[Jim Bronson]

I pumped it several times after installation per the instructions and a few times today before the ride. It feels normal to me except for the slight additional freeplay. I'll keep an eye on it.