Braided clutch cable vs stock

[Jim Bronson]

I recently installed a VPC along with a SE clutch spring in my S&S 110 build. Even with the VPC, the clutch lever is a bit hard to pull. I'm wondering whether a teflon, braided clutch cable wound make it easier.

2013 Dyna

Thanks

[rigidthumper]

VPC should make clutch pull easier at idle, and stiffer above 2500 RPM. Much stiffer above 5K.

[Hossamania]

A new clutch cable is often smoother than an older worn one. I thought that your current cable was already Teflon lined, but may be worn. You could try lubing it (I use Tri-Flow), and cleaning and lubing the clutch handle and perch.

[Jim Bronson]

My 2015 RK has a SE 110 with SE spring and has a VPC with a stock cable. I'm used to the variation in lever effort vs RPMs with the VPC. When I compare them side-by-side in the garage, the RK seems to have a lighter pull. The 2013 Dyna has stock cables and a VPC. It hadn't been ridden for several years when I bought it at the beginning of this year. Maybe the cable has gotten a bit gummed up from non-use. Anyway there's nothing to lose by lubing it. It just so happens I found a can of tri-flow on the shelf.

As usual, thanks a lot.

[calif phil]

Barnett cables seem to have the best lining to reduce the lever effort. 

But some lube as Hoss suggested might do wonders. 

[Jim Bronson]

After copious amounts of Tri-flow, I'll put it back together and try it. The pivot pin and eyelet pin were both almost dry, so that can't be good. I'm don't remember what lube to use on those. I seem to remember using anti-seize on my old Dyna. The SM doesn't call for lubing them.

[Hossamania]

I give them a good cleaning with WD40 and a very thin smear of grease, including the plastic slide. Anti-sieze is not a lubricant to be used on moving parts, it is an abrasive in that situation.

[Jim Bronson]

Grease it is then.

[02roadcling]

Elevate the cable and build a pool out of plastic and tape on the end. Then add a few drops of ShockProof and let it drip in overnight. It will be done forever. I learned this on here 19 years ago.

   cling

[Hossamania]

Elevate the cable and build a pool out of plastic and tape on the end. Then add a few drops of ShockProof and let it drip in overnight. It will be done forever. I learned this on here 19 years ago.

   cling

The shockproof may gum up if the cable is Teflon lined, the TriFlow dries so no gumming up.

[david lee]

i cut a tennis ball in half drill a hole underneath and poke the cable thru hang the ball up and put lubricant in and leave over night

[Hossamania]

I use a piece of garden hose and a hose clamp. I've also just made a tape funnel and tie a rag to the cable underneath the funnel to catch the drips that seep thru.

[Jim Bronson]

I just used a spray can straw alongside the cable. It worked OK, but it didn't make much difference in the pull effort.

[14Frisco]

The shockproof may gum up if the cable is Teflon lined, the TriFlow dries so no gumming up.

What do you base that on, that Shockproof oil may gum up in a teflon lined cable?
Has that happened to you?

[Hossamania]

The Teflon cables aren't supposed to be lubed at all is my understanding. I did lube mine with 3in1 light oil, and it seemed to gum up, bind a bit. I ran it for a while, then relubed with just Tri Flow and it eventually got better, but is due to be replaced, 10 years old, 50,000+ miles

[crock]

https://a.co/d/2m5WJjQ
This thing works pretty well

[Jim Bronson]

The Teflon cables aren't supposed to be lubed at all is my understanding.

The dealer told me this years ago. I checked my records, and I was mistaken about the cable on my RK. It was replaced with a Barnett teflon version when I had the engine built back in 2017. I've never lubed it, and the action is still smooth with an easy pull. Ergo the difference in pull effort between the RK and the Dyna with it's stock version.

I ordered a new Barnett from Phil. I'm hoping it will help my tendonitis.

[Hossamania]

Do you need the SE spring with the vpc?

[Jim Bronson]

A SE spring was included with the HD Tire Shredder 110 kit for the RK. It was a real bear to pull, so I installed a VPC, and it made it much easier.

The Dyna has an S&S 110 kit, and I added the spring and VPC at the same time based on my experience with the RK.

It is the other way around. If the build requires a stronger spring, than adding a VPC will help reduce the pull effort at low/mid RPMs. A Barnett cable would provide additional reduction.

[Hossamania]

The reason I ask is because I thought the vpc allows the use of the lighter stock spring but applies more pressure as rpm increase to prevent slip.
You may be able to put the stock spring back in, lighter clutch pull, but no slip as you add power.

[Jim Bronson]

With the S&S build, using a stock spring might be pushing it a bit. I haven't had it dynoed, but I'm guessing it would be making somewhere around 130/130, and that would be borderline with the stock spring. Once I install the new cable, it will be the same setup as the RK, and I'm happy with that.

[Hossamania]

I was wondering about that too, hope the cable helps. Good luck!

[Jim Bronson]

Thanks Hoss.

[Jim Bronson]

Do you need the SE spring with the vpc?

I installed the Barnett cable, and it helps a little but not as much as I had hoped. I'm going to try the stock spring and see what happens. My joints are still painful when squeezing the lever. Getting old is a drag.

[Fugawee]

I can't speak for Your VPC...but as far as Cable Lubing I'll throw My 2 cents in.
I use a product for lubing the Cable(s) called Dri-Slide Bike Aid.  It comes in a plastic squirt bottle with a Steel Needle like Applicator that You insert between the Outer Sheath and the Inner Cable and give a few squirts.  The stuff works great on all types of Cables, not just Motorcycles, with an outer sheath and is easy, and clean to use.  No need to rig anything up to lube a cable or remove it.  I use a Velcro Strap and hold the Clutch Lever in and apply.  Let it sit for a few minutes and work the Lever a few times.
For the Lever Housing Area, I use a product called Lubriplate 130-AA.  I use that on the Lever, Cable "Eye" and Pin, and around the Inside Housing and work it around with a Q-tip and get rid of the excess.  You don't need a lot.  That stuff comes in a tube, like toothpaste with a small applicator end and looks a little like Peanut Butter.
Both work just as good on Your Throttle Cables, should You have them.  Same routine...just remove the Upper Housing at the Throttle Cables, squirt some Dri-Slide in them, lube the area with the Ferrules with the Lubriplate, remove the excess, and close it up.

The Dri-Slide is available at "Better" Bicycle Stores locally that You may have in Your area that cater to the "Serious" Bicyclists and is around 20 bucks a bottle.  It will last You a long time.
The Lubriplate is available at small Hardware Stores usually...like a Mom and Pop type if any are still around where You are located.  I have never seen it in the Big-Name Stores like Lowes, Home Depot, etc.  Maybe they do now.  I don't know.  That costs about 8 bucks.
For the approx. $30.00 You may spend, They'll last quite a while.
Both Products are available on Amazon, and Ebay also.