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2002 Road King 60,000 miles rebuild

Started by Adam76, September 19, 2022, 03:04:06 AM

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Adam76

September 19, 2022, 03:04:06 AM Last Edit: September 19, 2022, 03:41:42 AM by Adam76
Hey folks,
Looking at a 2002 RKC tomorrow. Completely stock the owner tells me except for some wider handlebars and air shocks.

It's done 60,000 miles and it's a 20 yr old bike.
Of course I'm going to do a fairly mild 97"  top end big bore and camchest upgrade.

My question is with this many miles,  do I need to look at the bottom as well? Or just make sure pinion shaft runout is within spec, and leave the bottom end alone?

Thanks.

smoserx1

I'd be looking at the cam areas but probably nothing else.  I am still riding a 1999 EG with 232000 miles on it.  I did do a top end at 180000 but the bottom end has not been touched except for regular cam service like tensioners etc.  Just wonder why a rebuild is necessary at 60K?

Hossamania

The bottom end should be fine once runout is verified.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

calif phil

2002 has one of the best bottom ends, upgrade the oil pump, camplate and hyd tensioners and ride for another 60k miles. 

RTMike


Adam76

Quote from: calif phil on September 19, 2022, 08:05:03 AM2002 has one of the best bottom ends, upgrade the oil pump, camplate and hyd tensioners and ride for another 60k miles. 

Quote from: smoserx1 on September 19, 2022, 03:43:21 AMI'd be looking at the cam areas but probably nothing else.  I am still riding a 1999 EG with 232000 miles on it.  I did do a top end at 180000 but the bottom end has not been touched except for regular cam service like tensioners etc.  Just wonder why a rebuild is necessary at 60K?

Quote from: Hossamania on September 19, 2022, 03:55:40 AMThe bottom end should be fine once runout is verified.


Thanks guys.  :scoot:

Adam76

I've found a set of 103" heads off a softail. Will these work on a TC88 FLH touring bike? Or are the engine mount/s on the front head a problem?

I know I will have to plug the ACR holes (Ithink S&S do sell block off plugs??) and I know I will need different intake flanges... Anything else I need to know? I'm going to get the heads cc'd and valve job plus install MCRs becauase I'll be at around 10 - 10.25 compression.

Thanks

Ohio HD

ACR plugs are HD #16648-08A. I don't think S&S plugs work in OEM heads with ACR.

Your RK shouldn't have a front head mount, that started in 2008 on touring bikes.

kd

I would consider using the ACR's.  No machining cost or burned fingers later.  :wink:  There's a workaround for the wiring to the starter you can find with a site search here.
KD

tdrglide

I would use the ACR's as mentioned above but also install MCR's as backup. Cheap enough insurance. Failed ACR's could be a PIA far away from home. That's how I'm set up

Adam76

Thanks kd and tdrglide, using ACR's might be a good idea if the machining is already there from the factory. I'll have to price them up and look into how to do the wiring.

Thanks OHIO, good to that only '08 and later touring had the head change. Makes sense with the new frame they introduced at that time.  :up:

Adam76

I have the opportunity to get hold of a set of used SE heads.

Would these be a significantly better option than the stock 103 heads? And what pistons / cams would best suit the SE heads in a 95" / 98" build (beside the s&s 570 of course)  :teeth:

kd

Quote from: Adam76 on September 22, 2022, 06:20:33 AMI have the opportunity to get hold of a set of used SE heads.

Would these be a significantly better option than the stock 103 heads? And what pistons / cams would best suit the SE heads in a 95" / 98" build (beside the s&s 570 of course)  :teeth:

I think it depends on the vintage of the SE heads.  Some are better than others.  The latter or more recent version come in at about 95-96 CC which on a smaller displacement engine can reduce the compression ratio significantly.  They can be decked to bring the chamber size down or if you don't have the pistons yet you can control the CC or compression with a slight dome.  They have large (over 2") intake valves so they will feed an engine well.  The OEM valve springs are heavy and can produce some valve train noise because of that.  A new set of springs more along the line of what suits your cam profile will help.  .
KD

Hossamania

Adam,do you have a good head porter that you can lean on? How much are you willing to spend on head work?
What kind of riding do you want to build the motor for?
That last question determines the direction you go regarding cams, heads, pistons.
Look thru the dyno section (again) to find combos you're interested in.
I can tell you that Andrews 55s are not torque cams, and require a little headwork to make them happy, but they are fine rolling down the road, and rip when it's time.
Don't forget to include exhaust in your combo.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

JSD

Check crank run out as those still had Timken i run Gear drive if in spec.upgrade oil pump to i like fueling 10.5 comp and 585 cams . Send heads to Rams Sydney. Sreaming E manual comps. Carb bike ? Efi bore TB Hoods motors Adelaide. Tuner

Adam76

Quote from: JSD on September 22, 2022, 06:52:09 PMCheck crank run out as those still had Timken i run Gear drive if in spec.upgrade oil pump to i like fueling 10.5 comp and 585 cams . Send heads to Rams Sydney. Sreaming E manual comps. Carb bike ? Efi bore TB Hoods motors Adelaide. Tuner

Thanks JSD, that's good info. 👍

I'm probably going to use a PC-V fuel controller for proper dyno tuning.

Does the PC-V piggyback have all the timing and ignition setting adjustabilty? Or do I need an aftermarket ignition like the DTT?

Thanks