Bandit Setup Advice

[Ohio HD]

I have a Bandit Sportsman that I'll be using on my 2008 Street Glide with the new 124" motor that I'm in process of building. My expectations are 160 HP, and maybe 145 to 150 torque. It's possible I'll see more, but this is what I expect.

I know what springs to use when setting up a Barnett, but would like some advice on the springs and number of shims I should try for the Bandit. I have gold and gray springs that came with the clutch. The spring rates listed below are listed in some of Bandits instructions.

FYI, I don't plan to use a lockup unless I have to.


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[kd]

I used the grey springs backed up with 3 shims each on my 120 with a titch under 150 square (148 hp / 145 tq).  I had to drive over 9 hrs to my tuner with 2 pipes to tune and like you, I didn't want to be resetting a hot clutch because it didn't hold on the dyno.  It was rock solid. It was a little stiff but I was able to ride it that way and I intended to reduce shims as required later to lighten the lever pull. I installed a Muller reduction kit first and it's still like that with 3 shims but much lighter on the left hand in traffic and parking lot.  I don't see any reason to change it now but if I did it may only be 1 shim every 2nd spring for a start. I love the way it hooks up

[Ohio HD]

Thanks KD. I'll start there and see how it goes. I also plan to use a Muller ramp, as well as the Baker larger throw out bearing.

[kd]

Thanks KD. I'll start there and see how it goes. I also plan to use a Muller ramp, as well as the Baker larger throw out bearing.

I should have mentioned that No Cents is in the same zone as you want to be and has a Bandit Sportsman.  I am sure he is using less weight than I am.  I think it's in his Cat out of the bag thread somewhere near the end when he was retuning. IIRC he is also using the Muller ramp and Baker bearing.

[Ohio HD]

I should have mentioned that No Cents is in the same zone as you want to be and has a Bandit Sportsman.  I am sure he is using less weight than I am.  I think it's in his Cat out of the bag thread somewhere near the end when he was retuning. IIRC he is also using the Muller ramp and Baker bearing.

If I remember correctly Ray was using a lockup, but I could be wrong about that. 

[Ohio HD]

I found Ray's post on the clutch. By the setup, he probably isn't running a lockup. He has 1 shim under the gray springs.




https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,64175.msg1052154.html#msg1052154

[kd]

I should have mentioned that No Cents is in the same zone as you want to be and has a Bandit Sportsman.  I am sure he is using less weight than I am.  I think it's in his Cat out of the bag thread somewhere near the end when he was retuning. IIRC he is also using the Muller ramp and Baker bearing.

If I remember correctly Ray was using a lockup, but I could be wrong about that. 

You are right, he was / is. I remember seeing the hat pic but that may have changed.

FWIW I was at 131 torque at 2500 on the hit.  I could be wrong but I don't see any sign of slipping in the graph.  I was in the booth and the hit was full on hard. IMO, unless you pull a bunch more at 2500 you'll be better than OK.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,99409.msg1162057.html#msg1162057

[JohnCA58]

Also using grey spring with two shims, never had a issue, has 35K miles and one heavy pig of a bike with 146 lbs torque.

[Ohio HD]

Thanks John. I plan to add the new clutch, new transmission and rear chain setup, new primary gearing before I switch motors. That way I can ride it a few hundred miles to insure that everything is good before putting the new motor in and taking it to be tuned. When I pull out the 124" that's in there now, it goes into my other bike.

[Tireman]

I'm also running the Grey springs with 3 shims @154 tq. Tuner advised to start there for the dyno tune. I couldn't find Spectro so opt for Bel-Ray 85w Gear saver. I haven't changed a thing other fluid every time I change oil 2500-3000 mile. I got used to the leverage pull its not as heavy as I expected. Good luck.

[No Cents]

  I started experimenting with three shims and the grey springs on my Bandit clutch...but I ended up using one shim under the grey springs. To date the clutch has never slipped and the clutch pull is buttery smooth. I also run the Muller ramp with a Baker heavy duty throw out bearing.
  JFYI...the Muller ramp had to be machined to be able to accept the Baker throw out bearing.

[turboprop]

Have you considered having two different spring/shim combinations, one for tuning and one for street? Maybe even a third setup for use on a prepared track surface.

IME, the crowd with big block baggers seem to flip out over any hint of clutch slippage shown on their duo sheets. As you are probably aware, not all clutch slip is bad, so maybe the strongest springs and shims available for the dyno. Turn that clutch into a simple on/off switch.

After the engine is tuned, you could then work on tuning the clutch for street use. Not hard. Start at one end (hard or soft) and bracket it until it feels right for how you ride. No need to do this on a hot bike on a dyno. Do it at your own pace and distance. I would start soft and work up to heavier springs as I would prefer to not fight with a heavy clutch pull.

Not a fan of any devices that provide increased mechanical advantage at the cost of reduced plate travel.

Bandit used to recommend B&M Trick Shift with their clutch packs. Can't believe I am initiating a discussion on fluids (rolls eyes). Have used the B&M and every other exotic fluid for the primary drive. My application was with the earlier compensator so the fluid is not critical at all for the compensator. My only concern was the clutch pack and could not tell a difference between the most expensive and the least expensive ATF, or any of the other fluids marketed for use in Harley primary drives. I ran the least expensive ATF I could find with the Bandit Sportsman clutch. No issues with performance. Mobile 1 ATF seemed to be the nicest to work with when splitting the primary drive case as it would leave very little inside the case after being drained over night. YMMV.

[Ohio HD]

I'm also running the Grey springs with 3 shims @154 tq. Tuner advised to start there for the dyno tune. I couldn't find Spectro so opt for Bel-Ray 85w Gear saver. I haven't changed a thing other fluid every time I change oil 2500-3000 mile. I got used to the leverage pull its not as heavy as I expected. Good luck.

Thanks. I think that'll be a good starting point. I'm used to the Scorpion with all green springs, it has a little more clamping pressure at that setting 492 lbs. vs. the gray and three shims 456 lbs.

Added: I'm a fan of the Belray Gear Saver, I run that now. As Turboprop mentioned, ATF is a good solution when not running a late style compensator. I may try that as I have plenty of B&M Trick Shift on the shelf.

[Ohio HD]

I started experimenting with three shims and the grey springs on my Bandit clutch...but I ended up using one shim under the grey springs. To date the clutch has never slipped and the clutch pull is buttery smooth. I also run the Muller ramp with a Baker heavy duty throw out bearing.
  JFYI...the Muller ramp had to be machined to be able to accept the Baker throw out bearing.

Thanks Ray. I have a Muller ramp that I machined the backside for the Baker bearing. Should all work ok.

[Ohio HD]

Have you considered having two different spring/shim combinations, one for tuning and one for street? Maybe even a third setup for use on a prepared track surface.

IME, the crowd with big block baggers seem to flip out over any hint of clutch slippage shown on their duo sheets. As you are probably aware, not all clutch slip is bad, so maybe the strongest springs and shims available for the dyno. Turn that clutch into a simple on/off switch.

After the engine is tuned, you could then work on tuning the clutch for street use. Not hard. Start at one end (hard or soft) and bracket it until it feels right for how you ride. No need to do this on a hot bike on a dyno. Do it at your own pace and distance. I would start soft and work up to heavier springs as I would prefer to not fight with a heavy clutch pull.

Not a fan of any devices that provide increased mechanical advantage at the cost of reduced plate travel.

Bandit used to recommend B&M Trick Shift with their clutch packs. Can't believe I am initiating a discussion on fluids (rolls eyes). Have used the B&M and every other exotic fluid for the primary drive. My application was with the earlier compensator so the fluid is not critical at all for the compensator. My only concern was the clutch pack and could not tell a difference between the most expensive and the least expensive ATF, or any of the other fluids marketed for use in Harley primary drives. I ran the least expensive ATF I could find with the Bandit Sportsman clutch. No issues with performance. Mobile 1 ATF seemed to be the nicest to work with when splitting the primary drive case as it would leave very little inside the case after being drained over night. YMMV.

Yeah I've thought that I'll reduce the pressure after tuning to see where the break loose (seat of pants feel) point is. That's one of the reasons I don't want a lockup, so I can have just a touch of slip under the heaviest of loads. I want to try to keep from shocking the drive line and transmission too abruptly. I remember your primary chain blowing apart under load.

I have a Vulcan Works 32 and 34 tooth motor sprocket. One of those will be used in lieu of a compensator. So as you mentioned, fluids can be opened up to what's best for the clutch pack. A solid sprocket also adds shock to the drive line, so that's why I don't want a lockup unit.

As far as the Muller, I need to put an indictor on after I install it and see how much clutch plate travel I get. I'd like to keep it at better that 0.070" travel if I can. I get 0.074" right now with the HD 21° ramp.


Thanks, I appreciate the advice.

[kd]

Have you considered having two different spring/shim combinations, one for tuning and one for street? Maybe even a third setup for use on a prepared track surface.

IME, the crowd with big block baggers seem to flip out over any hint of clutch slippage shown on their duo sheets. As you are probably aware, not all clutch slip is bad, so maybe the strongest springs and shims available for the dyno. Turn that clutch into a simple on/off switch.

After the engine is tuned, you could then work on tuning the clutch for street use. Not hard. Start at one end (hard or soft) and bracket it until it feels right for how you ride. No need to do this on a hot bike on a dyno. Do it at your own pace and distance. I would start soft and work up to heavier springs as I would prefer to not fight with a heavy clutch pull.

Not a fan of any devices that provide increased mechanical advantage at the cost of reduced plate travel.

Bandit used to recommend B&M Trick Shift with their clutch packs. Can't believe I am initiating a discussion on fluids (rolls eyes). Have used the B&M and every other exotic fluid for the primary drive. My application was with the earlier compensator so the fluid is not critical at all for the compensator. My only concern was the clutch pack and could not tell a difference between the most expensive and the least expensive ATF, or any of the other fluids marketed for use in Harley primary drives. I ran the least expensive ATF I could find with the Bandit Sportsman clutch. No issues with performance. Mobile 1 ATF seemed to be the nicest to work with when splitting the primary drive case as it would leave very little inside the case after being drained over night. YMMV.

What you are saying was exactly what I was considering with the exception of fluid due to the later comp style.  Once I figured out the secret to adjusting the Muller Ramp device I found the measured travel for clutch plate separation was in the OEM spec range and the reduction in weight was considerable enough to no longer be a concern. Before I went to the N1 shift pattern in my GrudgeBox it was easy to find neutral and didn't bang going into first gear if you gave it a few seconds to stop spinning. The bonus (to me anyway) was the Muller ramp causes plate engagement at around mid release of the lever travel and over a longer release / engagement travel. Unlike the oem ramp, it's a slower engagement and not so on / off.  It makes it so much easier to control engagement.

That said, I still would like to experiment a bit with shim removal to lighten the lever pull even more.  I suppose if I was on the track and actually working on launch control I would have got there already but I'm not.  I admit I am having trouble getting around to changing it instead of just riding.  If it's not broke ......  It has however been bothering me that the way it is, I am adding more wear to my new Barnet clutch cable. 

I started experimenting with three shims and the grey springs on my Bandit clutch...but I ended up using one shim under the grey springs. To date the clutch has never slipped and the clutch pull is buttery smooth. I also run the Muller ramp with a Baker heavy duty throw out bearing.
  JFYI...the Muller ramp had to be machined to be able to accept the Baker throw out bearing.

That's good info Ray.  I now remember you sharing that.  Maybe it's about time I got off my duff and removed some shims too.  At least Ohio will know what is guaranteed to hold the clutch and where to go after he gets his tuning done.

[No Cents]

 the bike did hit the dyno with three shims in it as John from Bandit suggested. Jim (my tuner) couldn't get it to slip while he was dyno tuning it.
  With no slip on the dyno and after I got it home I still wanted a little softer clutch pull if I could get it. I didn't try staggering any shims but I thought I'll just try just one shim under each spring and I'll give that a whirl to see how it does. I took the bike out for a ride and I tried my hardest to get the clutch to slip...I couldn't feel any slippage...just the back tire spinning and the front tire wanting to lift off the road. so...I called that good. The clutch lever pull is easy and it has no clutch slippage detected by my old butt. So, I have been running that same setup for years. I have never had to go back in to make any changes to it to date.
 

[hrdtail78]

Not a fan of any devices that provide increased mechanical advantage at the cost of reduced plate travel.

 

John has posted his recommended minimum travel of pressure plate.  I can't seem to find it but you can always call him.  No matter what you plan on moving the plate with.  I recommend double checking this measurement.

I recommend the lightest springs you can get away with. The suggestion will get you in the ball park but a 145 tq build at 3000 will require a stiffer clutch than a build that hits 145 at 4500 and only 125 at 3000.

[Ohio HD]

John has posted his recommended minimum travel of pressure plate.  I can't seem to find it but you can always call him.  No matter what you plan on moving the plate with.  I recommend double checking this measurement.

I recommend the lightest springs you can get away with. The suggestion will get you in the ball park but a 145 tq build at 3000 will require a stiffer clutch than a build that hits 145 at 4500 and only 125 at 3000.

That's a good suggestion Jason. I'll reach out to John and ask him what he recommends as minimum travel. And you're right, the maximum torque will be higher in the RPM's for sure.

[turboprop]

Have you considered having two different spring/shim combinations, one for tuning and one for street? Maybe even a third setup for use on a prepared track surface.

IME, the crowd with big block baggers seem to flip out over any hint of clutch slippage shown on their duo sheets. As you are probably aware, not all clutch slip is bad, so maybe the strongest springs and shims available for the dyno. Turn that clutch into a simple on/off switch.

After the engine is tuned, you could then work on tuning the clutch for street use. Not hard. Start at one end (hard or soft) and bracket it until it feels right for how you ride. No need to do this on a hot bike on a dyno. Do it at your own pace and distance. I would start soft and work up to heavier springs as I would prefer to not fight with a heavy clutch pull.

Not a fan of any devices that provide increased mechanical advantage at the cost of reduced plate travel.

Bandit used to recommend B&M Trick Shift with their clutch packs. Can't believe I am initiating a discussion on fluids (rolls eyes). Have used the B&M and every other exotic fluid for the primary drive. My application was with the earlier compensator so the fluid is not critical at all for the compensator. My only concern was the clutch pack and could not tell a difference between the most expensive and the least expensive ATF, or any of the other fluids marketed for use in Harley primary drives. I ran the least expensive ATF I could find with the Bandit Sportsman clutch. No issues with performance. Mobile 1 ATF seemed to be the nicest to work with when splitting the primary drive case as it would leave very little inside the case after being drained over night. YMMV.

Yeah I've thought that I'll reduce the pressure after tuning to see where the break loose (seat of pants feel) point is. That's one of the reasons I don't want a lockup, so I can have just a touch of slip under the heaviest of loads. I want to try to keep from shocking the drive line and transmission to abruptly. I remember your primary chain blowing apart under load.

I have a Vulcan Works 32 and 34 tooth motor sprocket. One of those will be used in lieu of a compensator. So as you mentioned, fluids can be opened up to what's best for the clutch pack. A solid sprocket also adds shock to the drive line, so that's why I don't want a lockup unit.

As far as the Muller, I need to put an indictor on after I install it and see how much clutch plate travel I get. I'd like to keep it at better that 0.070" travel if I can. I get 0.074" right now with the HD 21° ramp.


Thanks, I appreciate the advice.

To be clear, it was the cheap, used oem ebay sourced basket that shattered under load. The Bandit hub was left undamaged. Literally, everything else in the primary drive broke EXCEPT the Bandit hub.

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

[kd]

At the risk of adding too much thread drift, in my set-up I forgot to mention that I also added an Oberon extended pull adjustable clutch lever. I wanted the extended reach and travel to compensate for lost travel of the Muller ramp. I can`t find my actual measurement notes at this time but we did have a conversation in 2018 when I set mine up.  The thread below may give an idea what was gained but without my notes I can`t confirm the final numbers. (damn old memory) I do remember setting the cable up at the lever mount with a cable loom anchor to control free play. (pics available if you desire. We`ll see if I have mine up on the table soon enough to get new travel pressure plate travel measurements for you.

https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,102702.0/all.html

[Ohio HD]

I made a simple spring calculation spreadsheet for those that use spreadsheets. This is based on the two spring pressures from the "silver (gray)" and "gold" springs Bandit supplies.


https://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,105065.msg1428830.html#msg1428830

[Ohio HD]

I heard back from John Magee regarding the recommended clutch pressure plate travel. He always responds very quickly. Says a lot about their customer support. 

You're right Jason, 0.070" is the number.
Minimum is .055", .070 is more common.

So the clutch will react the same way an OEM clutch will, more travel is better. I should be able to reproduce the 0.070" ~ 0.074" that I get now. I've never been able to get a Twin Cam clutch to act right with less than 0.060" pressure plate travel.

He also mentioned to make sure that the pressure plate is running true when the clutch is installed. I remember a few guys have brought this up on HTT in the past.

[kd]

   I remember him telling me the .070 when I spoke to him.  I am quite sure I got mid .060 range but can't confirm.  It was touch and go when I had .056. The pressure plate is important also and there's an indexing mark you need to be aware of too.

[Ohio HD]

I think I'm going to try the OEM 21° ramps first. They provide the most travel, but stiffen the pull a little. If the spring pressure numbers are close, I'm running more pressure on my Barnett than I'll need on the Bandit. So the clutch pull may be good enough with the OEM stuff as is.

I run the clutch adjustment a little loose now because the right side trapdoor bearings in my 2008 six speed are shot. You roll the throttle on and off and you gain and loose over an 1/8" at the clutch lever. When I let off the clutch, the lever goes completely tight against the clutch lever bracket.

[kd]

The Bandit fiber plates appear to have about twice the friction area of OEM.  It would be nice to know the percentage but simply looking at the two side by side appears close to that.  I guess that's why they hold so well. I expect a minimum spring pressure is required but a lot less is needed to hold with a Bandit than OEM clutch.

I noticed the lever movement you describe in a used and brand new trans cassette and brought it up here before. It is prominent in transmissions with helical cut gears. Power on and off moves them back and forth about the amount you mentioned if you hold slack out of the cable with the lever.  I checked a few bikes and all were the same except the straight cut geared GrudgeBox.

[Ohio HD]

My Scorpion also has much more friction area than the OEM clutches have, probably double the area, and has one more clutch plate. The Bandit has over twice the surface as OEM, and has eleven clutch plates. So no doubt the Bandit will require less pressure than the Scorpion I'm using now. The Scorpion is set at 492 lbs. right now. It's stiff, but nothing I can't handle.

Yeah the helecut gears climb each other, causes the shafts to oscillate, but they do that because the bearings in the right side get worn. I have  Grudgebox to fix that.   

[kd]

   Yep on the GrudgeBox.

[Ohio HD]

I have the 3.20 1st gear transmission. I'll never hear the gear whine over the exhaust.

You cannot see attachments on this board.

[kd]

We both bought ours in the same sale.  I thought it would be like learning to like a Muncie M22 for the whine.  I was wrong.  It's more quiet than you will believe after it gets run in.  I don't even notice it.  It takes a bit longer on the decel side because riding hard breaks in that side of the gears faster.   

[Ohio HD]

No doubt about the wear in. 

I figure I never heard gear whine of a four speed or a five speed. But I always had louder than stock pipes on them.


Yeah, I remember the super fast shipping we saw.   

[kd]

 

[Ohio HD]

To be clear, it was the cheap, used oem ebay sourced basket that shattered under load. The Bandit hub was left undamaged. Literally, everything else in the primary drive broke EXCEPT the Bandit hub.

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

I would have been surprised if the Bandit hub would have broken, it looks beefy. I have the Evolution Ind. basket on there now. It would take a lot to bust one of them.

I agree about the least spring pressure to hold up under throttle. I'm surprised I haven't broken any clutch cables with the Scorpion clutch in there now. There's not as much of a fine adjustment in spring pressure that the Bandit has. No shims, only spring changes.

[Ohio HD]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

[turboprop]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

[turboprop]

My Scorpion also has much more friction area than the OEM clutches have, probably double the area, and has one more clutch plate. The Bandit has over twice the surface as OEM, and has eleven clutch plates. So no doubt the Bandit will require less pressure than the Scorpion I'm using now. The Scorpion is set at 492 lbs. right now. It's stiff, but nothing I can't handle.

Yeah the helecut gears climb each other, causes the shafts to oscillate, but they do that because the bearings in the right side get worn. I have  Grudgebox to fix that.   

Not all surface area is equal. Yes, the total square inches might double but that doesn't mean the holding power doubles as the area in the center does not see as much load as the area at the perimeter. There are gains by adding more surface area to the center but it is not apples to apples with the stuff at the perimeter.

[Ohio HD]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

Thank you, good info to know. I'm going to need a new clutch for the other bike after the existing 124" gets transplanted into it. It still has an OEM clutch in it. I need to contact Rekluse and ask about their suggestion for holding 140 torque on my actual touring bike. See what they suggest. 

[turboprop]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

Thank you, good info to know. I'm going to need a new clutch for the other bike after the existing 124" gets transplanted into it. It still has an OEM clutch in it. I need to contact Rekluse and ask about their suggestion for holding 140 torque on my actual touring bike. See what they suggest. 

I am fully aware that everyone thinks that what they have is the best and that is what everyone else should use. My bikes are usually built initially with whatever I have on hand, what extra stuff my buddies have, current good deals, etc. That being said, the clutch in my blue/white FXR still has a good deal of the dumpster stuff. OEM basket and hub, Barnett carbon clutch and spring, 25/36 gearing, AIM variable pressure hat. This is behind a high torque TC124 in a medium weight FXR (tour pack, RP fairing, full compliment of floor boards, turn signals, etc.), with 32/65 final drive. The clutch basket, hub and pack in this bike is not even on my radar.

[Ohio HD]

I am fully aware that everyone thinks that what they have is the best and that is what everyone else should use. My bikes are usually built initially with whatever I have on hand, what extra stuff my buddies have, current good deals, etc. That being said, the clutch in my blue/white FXR still has a good deal of the dumpster stuff. OEM basket and hub, Barnett carbon clutch and spring, 25/36 gearing, AIM variable pressure hat. This is behind a high torque TC124 in a medium weight FXR (tour pack, RP fairing, full compliment of floor boards, turn signals, etc.), with 32/65 final drive. The clutch basket, hub and pack in this bike is not even on my radar.

I no doubt am one of the guys who helped invent the term overkill. I have no idea what clutch will end up in the secondary bike yet. But I like to know what are my options, and then what's the most reasonable solution, then sometimes what I want overrides. I've had some interest in their clutches, and remembered the question about the inserts at one time. That bikes metamorphosis is a little down the road still.

[itsafatboy]

i run bandit on a 132/140 twincam , and run the grey older clutch so sunk the bolt .150 i posted just to say they sold me some plates with a red material said it was better than the green stock material,