Bandit Setup Advice

[kd]

The Bandit fiber plates appear to have about twice the friction area of OEM.  It would be nice to know the percentage but simply looking at the two side by side appears close to that.  I guess that's why they hold so well. I expect a minimum spring pressure is required but a lot less is needed to hold with a Bandit than OEM clutch.

I noticed the lever movement you describe in a used and brand new trans cassette and brought it up here before. It is prominent in transmissions with helical cut gears. Power on and off moves them back and forth about the amount you mentioned if you hold slack out of the cable with the lever.  I checked a few bikes and all were the same except the straight cut geared GrudgeBox.

[Ohio HD]

My Scorpion also has much more friction area than the OEM clutches have, probably double the area, and has one more clutch plate. The Bandit has over twice the surface as OEM, and has eleven clutch plates. So no doubt the Bandit will require less pressure than the Scorpion I'm using now. The Scorpion is set at 492 lbs. right now. It's stiff, but nothing I can't handle.

Yeah the helecut gears climb each other, causes the shafts to oscillate, but they do that because the bearings in the right side get worn. I have  Grudgebox to fix that.   

[kd]

   Yep on the GrudgeBox.

[Ohio HD]

I have the 3.20 1st gear transmission. I'll never hear the gear whine over the exhaust.

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[kd]

We both bought ours in the same sale.  I thought it would be like learning to like a Muncie M22 for the whine.  I was wrong.  It's more quiet than you will believe after it gets run in.  I don't even notice it.  It takes a bit longer on the decel side because riding hard breaks in that side of the gears faster.   

[Ohio HD]

No doubt about the wear in. 

I figure I never heard gear whine of a four speed or a five speed. But I always had louder than stock pipes on them.


Yeah, I remember the super fast shipping we saw.   

[kd]

 

[Ohio HD]

To be clear, it was the cheap, used oem ebay sourced basket that shattered under load. The Bandit hub was left undamaged. Literally, everything else in the primary drive broke EXCEPT the Bandit hub.

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

I would have been surprised if the Bandit hub would have broken, it looks beefy. I have the Evolution Ind. basket on there now. It would take a lot to bust one of them.

I agree about the least spring pressure to hold up under throttle. I'm surprised I haven't broken any clutch cables with the Scorpion clutch in there now. There's not as much of a fine adjustment in spring pressure that the Bandit has. No shims, only spring changes.

[Ohio HD]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

[turboprop]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

[turboprop]

My Scorpion also has much more friction area than the OEM clutches have, probably double the area, and has one more clutch plate. The Bandit has over twice the surface as OEM, and has eleven clutch plates. So no doubt the Bandit will require less pressure than the Scorpion I'm using now. The Scorpion is set at 492 lbs. right now. It's stiff, but nothing I can't handle.

Yeah the helecut gears climb each other, causes the shafts to oscillate, but they do that because the bearings in the right side get worn. I have  Grudgebox to fix that.   

Not all surface area is equal. Yes, the total square inches might double but that doesn't mean the holding power doubles as the area in the center does not see as much load as the area at the perimeter. There are gains by adding more surface area to the center but it is not apples to apples with the stuff at the perimeter.

[Ohio HD]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

Thank you, good info to know. I'm going to need a new clutch for the other bike after the existing 124" gets transplanted into it. It still has an OEM clutch in it. I need to contact Rekluse and ask about their suggestion for holding 140 torque on my actual touring bike. See what they suggest. 

[turboprop]

That being said, the basket has been replaced with one from Evo Industries. The Bandit is also long gone. It was too much like a light switch. The dyno/bagger guys love them for the zero slip thing, but didnt work well for my application. My red For with the 160hp TC is currently running an EVO basket, Rekluse clutch pack with OEM hub, AIM pressure plate with variable pressure hat and a very light spring. The pull at the hydraulic clutch lever is very light at idle and totally unnoticeable at higher RPMs.

Is this the Rekluse clutch that uses the inserts to prevent damage to the clutch basket? I seem to remember there was question about them working with other than OEM clutch baskets. Did you have to machine anywhere on the Evo basket, or do the Rekluse inserts fit?

This is the clutch pack that uses the inserts. No machining to to basket. The inserts fit very well but are too tall. They protruded above the top of the basket and in their unmodified state made contact with the perimeter of the pressure plate. I trimmed them back about .100" using a bench grinder and small file. Now they are flush with the top of the basket.

Thank you, good info to know. I'm going to need a new clutch for the other bike after the existing 124" gets transplanted into it. It still has an OEM clutch in it. I need to contact Rekluse and ask about their suggestion for holding 140 torque on my actual touring bike. See what they suggest. 

I am fully aware that everyone thinks that what they have is the best and that is what everyone else should use. My bikes are usually built initially with whatever I have on hand, what extra stuff my buddies have, current good deals, etc. That being said, the clutch in my blue/white FXR still has a good deal of the dumpster stuff. OEM basket and hub, Barnett carbon clutch and spring, 25/36 gearing, AIM variable pressure hat. This is behind a high torque TC124 in a medium weight FXR (tour pack, RP fairing, full compliment of floor boards, turn signals, etc.), with 32/65 final drive. The clutch basket, hub and pack in this bike is not even on my radar.

[Ohio HD]

I am fully aware that everyone thinks that what they have is the best and that is what everyone else should use. My bikes are usually built initially with whatever I have on hand, what extra stuff my buddies have, current good deals, etc. That being said, the clutch in my blue/white FXR still has a good deal of the dumpster stuff. OEM basket and hub, Barnett carbon clutch and spring, 25/36 gearing, AIM variable pressure hat. This is behind a high torque TC124 in a medium weight FXR (tour pack, RP fairing, full compliment of floor boards, turn signals, etc.), with 32/65 final drive. The clutch basket, hub and pack in this bike is not even on my radar.

I no doubt am one of the guys who helped invent the term overkill. I have no idea what clutch will end up in the secondary bike yet. But I like to know what are my options, and then what's the most reasonable solution, then sometimes what I want overrides. I've had some interest in their clutches, and remembered the question about the inserts at one time. That bikes metamorphosis is a little down the road still.

[itsafatboy]

i run bandit on a 132/140 twincam , and run the grey older clutch so sunk the bolt .150 i posted just to say they sold me some plates with a red material said it was better than the green stock material,