Removing the Stock sump plug and replacing it with a Feuling Short Sump plug?

[Deye76]

I use pipe dope on those plugs.

  The product I use is Gasoila, a soft set sealant.

[kd]

It's good to remember that pipe dope type applications also lube the threads so a small torue factor becomes larger.  This can pull threads.  Go easy on the "snugging" up.

[Hossamania]

It's good to remember that pipe dope type applications also lube the threads so a small torue factor becomes larger.  This can pull threads.  Go easy on the "snugging" up.

Correct, the primary drain plug is a clearance fit install, not a torque value install.
I should say, a pipe thread plug is a clearance fit, not a torque fit.

[Trobec]

If possible can someone answer my question, do I need to drain the engine to swap the sump plug? Or can I swap it without dropping the oil?

I put one in when I did an oil change two months ago. I simply removed the stock one and screwed in the new until it was flush with the case. Didn't even have a instruction sheet. Yeah,I know,I'm a renegade. lol 

[hrdtail78]

If possible can someone answer my question, do I need to drain the engine to swap the sump plug? Or can I swap it without dropping the oil?

Yes, no reason to drain oil.  You get whatever is in crank cavity of the case, and that is it.

[FranBunnyFFXII]

I removed the one in my TC case i heated it to loosen the locking compound then it came out easy.

So I wanted to poke at this if I can. I have a heat gun that does 450F.
How long should I heat up the area?

My plan of action here is to
Heat up the stock sump plug for 2~3 minutes, then remove the stock drain plug, letting things cool back down. Coat the threads of the feuling sump plug with red Loctite from my loctite stick, and dab a small bit on the threads of the engine case, then screw in the new sump plug until I feel the resistance that makes it stop while using an Allen Key(instead of a ratchet so there's much less torque). The from there, according to the instructions, Turn it 1.5 more times.
However I'm assuming that the red loctite stick is probably not a good idea as the instructions call for 545?

[Ohio HD]

Red Loctite in aluminum equals pulled threads when the fastener is removed. 545 is a thread sealer.

[FranBunnyFFXII]

Red Loctite in aluminum equals pulled threads when the fastener is removed. 545 is a thread sealer.

Thank you, I go pick up some thread sealant then.

[kd]

Red Loctite in aluminum equals pulled threads when the fastener is removed. 545 is a thread sealer.

Thank you, I go pick up some thread sealant then.

545 or any of the thread sealers lube the threads and it is easy to overtighten and strip the crankcase threads.  Be careful to not overtighten it.

[FranBunnyFFXII]

Red Loctite in aluminum equals pulled threads when the fastener is removed. 545 is a thread sealer.

Thank you, I go pick up some thread sealant then.

545 or any of the thread sealers lube the threads and it is easy to overtighten and strip the crankcase threads.  Be careful to not overtighten it.

Right, I was thinking to touch snug it, and then the instructions say 1.5 more turns. And if trying to do that 1.5 turn it starts resisting at all to stop. Will it give a noticeable increase in resistance as I turn it in?

[kd]

Red Loctite in aluminum equals pulled threads when the fastener is removed. 545 is a thread sealer.

Thank you, I go pick up some thread sealant then.

545 or any of the thread sealers lube the threads and it is easy to overtighten and strip the crankcase threads.  Be careful to not overtighten it.

Right, I was thinking to touch snug it, and then the instructions say 1.5 more turns. And if trying to do that 1.5 turn it starts resisting at all to stop. Will it give a noticeable increase in resistance?

My thoughts are those instructions would be for a plug that has more material engagement than the thin walled crankcase and would therefore be able to support more rotation without stripping the threads.

[FranBunnyFFXII]

My thoughts are those instructions would be for a plug that has more material engagement than the thin walled crankcase and would therefore be able to support more rotation without stripping the threads.

So once everything is cooled down, I should just snug the new sump plug, Turn it a little bit more(like a 1/4 turn) or until I feel it's tight, then leave it be?
The thread sealant holds it in there and from backing out after it's cured?

[Coyote]

do you have the instructions ?