Front Fork Damper Bolt

[Ken R]

I think they've used red thread locker on this bolt.  I'm unable to budge it.

Trying to change the fork seals and oil on my 2019 FLHTK.  The left fork leaks a bit so I'll rebuild both of them.   It was so easy on 2013 and earlier models.

All went normal until it was time to remove the Damper Bolt.  Holy cow, that thing is tight.  Supposed to only be torqued to 37 ft lbs, but with the thread locker, my battery impact won't budge it.  My air isn't fairing much better. 

Any tricks I should know?  The shop manual simply says, "Remove the bolt."  Yeah . . . right!
I don't want to ruin the left fork assembly. 

Ken

[smoserx1]

Are you talking about the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, often with an Allen head?  Yes they can be very tight.  You might have to use a heat gun on it and definitely an impact wrench for removal.  I have an electric one that plugs in, these are usually pretty stout.  And it is better to loosen this bolt before you take the fork cap bolt off so the pressure of the spring will help keep the damper tube from spinning.  I have never used an impact wrench for reassembly either.

[Ken R]

Are you talking about the bolt at the bottom of the fork leg, often with an Allen head?  Yes they can be very tight.  You might have to use a heat gun on it and definitely an impact wrench for removal.  I have an electric one that plugs in, these are usually pretty stout.  And it is better to loosen this bolt before you take the fork cap bolt off so the pressure of the spring will help keep the damper tube from spinning.  I have never used an impact wrench for reassembly either.

That's the one! 
The newer models take a 12mm Allen tool to remove.  And the bolt is now recessed about 2" deep past the axle since they've changed from the clamps to holding the axle to holes in the slider for axle insertion.  No way to apply heat to the bolt that I know of. 
I have a 12mm impact Allen socket on the way.  I just fear using it. 

By the way, one must take the fork cap off first to drain the oil and then put the cap back on to apply pressure to the damper so it doesn't turn for removal. 

[Ken R]

I found a website that showed that CRC Brake Cleaner will penetrate the threads and dissolve Red Loctite. 
You bet I will try it (before applying heat).  Tomorrow my new 12mm impact driver hex socket arrives.  I'm looking forward to finishing the left fork and starting on the right.

[FXDBI]

Take the cap off and spray a load down the tube so it sits in it overnight.   Bob

[smoserx1]

"By the way, one must take the fork cap off first to drain the oil and then put the cap back on to apply pressure to the damper so it doesn't turn for removal."

Actually if you get that bolt out first the oil should drain out the bottom fine.  I also have to use a special Allen socket because only one leg of my 99 uses the half circle clamp, the left leg does not and it takes a long socket.  Make sure the one you use it no so long that it twists when the impact is applied.  And I would still try a heat gun to the bottom of the leg (don't get it too hot).  You want to expand the aluminum to loosen the threads.  Pic below is what I use.  Good luck.

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