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Can't remove clutch pushrod brg

Started by stickman53, April 13, 2024, 11:16:02 AM

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stickman53

I'm a touring guy but am trying to fix a friend's 1990 FXRP. She was riding and the clutch lever went totally slack and she couldn't shift. I assumed it was a broken clutch cable and disassembled both ends of clutch cable, but the cable seems fine. It does appear the throw out (push rod bearing) is gone....in the attached pic all I see are the 2 washers, but no bearing between them. No metal pieces visible in the drained tranny oil, drain plug magnet, or the removed tranny cover that houses the ball and ramp.
I removed the circlip to pull off the push rod bearing washers, but they're stuck on the shaft. Are they supposed to pull right off by hand once the circlip is removed, or is a puller normally required?
Thanks for any help

Ohio HD

You can see from the blue area that the bearing and right side pushrod became very hot. Most likely you'll need to replace the bearing assembly and that right side pushrod. Just pull that right side out of the transmission.

Normally the bearing comes right off.

I would say that the clutch was adjusted way to tight.

Ohio HD

April 13, 2024, 11:56:25 AM #2 Last Edit: April 13, 2024, 12:00:57 PM by Ohio HD
FYI, I just noticed that the oil slinger is busted off on your right side pushrod. Were there parts in the cover when you opened it up?

This is what a good one looks like from my parts stash.



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stickman53

Thanks for the quick reply.  When I removed the right side cover everything was clean inside it....no metal pieces visible anywhere.   Tranny oil was clean (strained it through cheesecloth), and the drain plug mag only had a little black dust on it.   Do all the models come with the oil slinger? 

Ohio HD

Yeah, it should have the slinger pressed onto the right side pushrod. Whom ever worked on it last was a poor mechanic if the slinger isn't inside the cover.

Ohio HD

If you note the little tabs pointing towards the bearing. That's what drops oil onto the bearing. Without that the bearing will run dry. Only getting a little oil mist.



FSG

April 13, 2024, 12:29:58 PM #6 Last Edit: April 13, 2024, 12:39:24 PM by FSG
Quote from: stickman53 on April 13, 2024, 12:08:56 PMDo all the models come with the oil slinger? 

NO .....  early users of the wayfer bearing didn't 

but it's sure ween warm in there,

measure the exposed end of the shaft from the outside of the thrust washer to the inside/trannie side of the clip groove

was the clip still on the shaft ?



I don't like the look of the outside edges of those thrust washers ...... 

IMO they are not Thrust Washers BUT Washers made from Bar Stock like many of the Not so good Aftermarket Heavy Duty  Throw out bearing makers

FSG

I had the bearing go out on my '03 ....

when you get those washers off the shaft post a pic of the inside/bearing surfaces


FSG

no name washer (left) vs thrust washer (right)


FSG

Quote from: FSG on April 13, 2024, 12:29:58 PMwas the clip still on the shaft ?

sorry ....  re read your post

post a pic of the clip

Quote from: stickman53 on April 13, 2024, 11:16:02 AMI removed the circlip to pull off the push rod bearing washers,

Ohio HD

Quote from: FSG on April 13, 2024, 12:29:58 PMNO .....  early users of the wayfer bearing didn't 



That I didn't remember. I just looked in an OEM 1990 catalog, it does not show the slinger. So I stand corrected.


FSG

'90 and earlier



'91 onwards


FSG


stickman53

was the clip still on the shaft ?

Yes the clip was still on the shaft.  The bike is in a different location than I am now so I can't post a pic of the clip. It was a weird clip though,  not a typical snapring - there were no holes for snap ring pliers to engage.  I had to pry the clip off with 2 screwdrivers. 


stickman53

Appreciate the advice! So based on the pic I provided in the original post, would you guys agree the pushrod bearing is gone?  Or could the majority of it be between the thrust washers ?     

FSG

April 13, 2024, 03:11:01 PM #15 Last Edit: April 13, 2024, 10:13:17 PM by FSG
it's gone ......

put a later 37069-90 rod assembly - slinger in there with new OEM bearing and thrust washers AND a Shovel Spring and you'll bee good to go 

NOTE: take a good look at the Ramps - Inner and Outer .....  being a '90 model it may well have the 15 deg ramps in there which are a problem IMO .....  my '90 FLHTCU had them .... 

put a set of later 19 deg ramps in there

Ohio HD

Quote from: FSG on April 13, 2024, 03:11:01 PMit gone ......

put a later 37069-90 rod assembly - slinger in there with new OEM bearing and thrust washers AND a Shovel Spring and you'll bee good to go 

NOTE: take a good look at the Ramps - Inner and Outer .....  being a '90 model it may well have the 15 deg ramps in there which are a problem IMO .....  my '90 FLHTCU had them .... 

put a set of later 19 deg ramps in there

And that may be why it appears that someone had the clutch adjustment too tight, cooking the bearing. 


kd

The cable free play may have been misinterpreted if the clutch handle has worn out parts.  It happens. Lube is important to prevent wear and looseness.  If looseness at the clutch handle lever from wear is felt and thought to be the cable free play and in fact there is none, the bearing will cook.  I would disassemble those parts on the clutch lever to inspect them and if they are loose replace the bushings or any components with worn holes etc..
KD

JSD


stickman53

Today I clamped vice grips down on the thrust washers on the right side shaft, and attempted to pull the right side shaft out, but it's not budging at all.  Then I went to the clutch side and attempted to loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut, but it's not budging either.  Put the bike in 1st gear and applied loosening torque, but it just spins the rear wheel.  Need to have an assistant hold the rear brake down next attempt. 

Any recommendations on how to get the shaft out?    Thanks

Ohio HD


stickman53

Finally got the shaft out.  Vice grips on the right side of the shaft, and hex tip in the clutch adjusting screw with a 3/8 drive ratchet.  The spin weld broke easier than I expected, thankfully. Sorry for the poor photo. 

I still can't find any trace of the vaporized wafer bearing.  Trans oil was clean (filtered it thru cheesecloth), drain mag had only moderate dust, clutch cover insides were clean.  Looking into the trans oil passage, between trap door brgs, with a flashlight, what I can see looks clean.  Might try to snake a small magnet into the oil passage, and see if anything gets picked up.  Still thinking about pulling the top cover to get a better look inside the trans.

I see alot of after market suppliers of the pushrod(s).  Does anyone know if any of the after market rods are of acceptable quality?  Not sure how easy it'll be to find OEM rods.  Thanks for the help.