Rekluse Apex Clutch

[Ohio HD]

I know we have some members running Rekluse products. Is anyone running their Apex clutch?

I have interest in their complete setup, including the clutch basket. They claim a reduced clutch lever pull while increasing the load capacity. Since they have 18 steel and 17 fraction plates I can see where that might be possible. More load area and they also claim their friction plate material adds capacity.

Providing it all works as described, the only downside I see is limited tuneability with only two spring pressures. It would be nice if they also shimmed the springs like Bandit does.   

[turboprop]

Not running this clutch, but am running their clutch pack in an Evo industries billet basket with an AIM plate/VPC and have looked closely at this new inner hub, pack and pressure plate.

My thoughts:

1. The pressure plate is nothing ground breaking. Plenty of similar six spring hats on the market.
2. The pack appears to have the same number of plates as the pack for my '98 up five speed clutch.
3. The steel plates have a different inner pattern to match the proprietary hub they use.
4. The hub uses round rods vs traditional teeth to index the steel plates.

The only really new feature is the proprietary inner hub and the matching steel plates. The proprietary design of the hub effectively locks owners into using their proprietary clutch pack. I do not think the benefits of the rod drive feature is enough to offset being locked into a single proprietary clutch pack. My $0.02.

As for their regular drop in replacement clutch pack. I had one in my blue/white FXR with TC124 for about two years. The friction plates would cut into the clutch basket if they did not include those steel 'Sleeves' for the notches in the basket. With my combo (Evo Ind basket, AIM plate) those sleeves as shipped were about .050" too long and made contact with the plate causing it to drag. The fix was to shorten them. I used a bench grinder but there are other ways to do it. The thinner steels were not kind to the inner hub. As for how the clutch pack worked, not anything that really stands out and ground breaking. I think the Energy One clutch pack in my other bike feels better and the single sided Alto Carbon pack feels even better than the Energy One Clutch. IMO the Rekluse standard pack is good but not outstanding. Not sure if it is good enough to warrant jumping to a proprietary hub.

TP

[Ohio HD]

I appreciate the first hand feedback.

I was also thinking about being locked in to their clutch pack with that hub. But in my mind the rods may allow a little better plate separation with the lever pulled in. If you do the math of 17 friction plates and about 0.080" of clutch travel, you get 0.0047" between plates. Not much room. Since I mention this, how is your experience with clutch drag when primary fluid is cold and then hot?

I'm not dead set on it, but will spend that much on a new Bandit and Evo Ind basket. So I'm trying to determine what route is best.

The claim of less lever pull is a bonus. Is it your experience that you have an acceptable lever pull with enough spring pressure to hold the 124"? 

[turboprop]

Our applications are not really apples to apples, as my FXRs are much lighter than your bagger, are probably geared differently and are intended for different applications.

That being said, my red/white FXR is stripped down to the bare nothing, geared pretty low and has a Brembo RST hydraulic master cylinder. When I had the Recluse pack in this bike it had the lightest diaphragm spring I could find as I wanted/needed some clutch slip at launch. That being said, the lever could easily be pulled and held with my pinky. Lighter than light.

My blue/white FXR is slightly different. Lower compression TC124 built for torque (vs the high horsepower TC124 in red), cop bags and fairing, turn signals, floorboards, heavy steel exhaust pipe, etc. This bike has oem 2005 bagger style gearing (final and primary). It had a harley clutch master cylinder but has since been converted to cable. The clutch assembly in this bike consists of an oem basket, with an AIM plate and VPC. The spring used is from Energy One, not sure how it compares to the various oem springs. Lever pull on this bike has always been much easier than my oem stock bagger and most of my buddies bikes as well.

As for drag, again, not apples to apples as my bike all have the older 5-speed style compensators that are not so finicky about oil. I run the bare minimum amount of synthetic ATF. Usually Mobile 1 but not always. Clutch drag has never been an issue for either bike until either the plates start to warp or the basket/hub become notched.

Will add that I have about five or so clutch packs in rotation from a variety of manufacturers and even types. I use my bagger as a baseline to compare other clutches to as it doesn't drag, doesn't slip (Not enough power) and has very easy lever pull. The two FXRs have always had lever pull that was much easier than the bagger.

One area of the clutch that I often being overlooked is the runout on the hub. If you have access to a lathe, a trans main shaft and clutch assembly, chuck all this stuff up with a dial indicator. The first are to look at is the friction surface of the hub without any plates in the basket. With a straight shaft that surface should ideally have no runout. But it does. Then check the runout of the basket with and without the plates and springs installed. You might need a couple of everything to find a complete straight set. This is a major source of runout. Hopefully this information does not keep anyone up at night worrying like TC lifters do. lol

[Ohio HD]

That's a great idea, checking for runout, I'll have to give that a try and see how much runout there is with what I have. I do have a spare six speed main shaft. It'll need to be checked for straightness. The five speed main shaft is easier to chuck up, the six speed shaft has three gears pressed on at the factory on the shaft on the trapdoor side.

As far as needing a lot of thick lube for the compensator, I have a GMR Performance Compensavor and it floods the compensator with lube. I did the initial tests for Steve using ATF. The compensator is still running quiet after 45k miles.

I do plan to call Rekluse and see what they say about the clutch package. But I assume I'll get sales speak.   

[turboprop]

I have seen guys try to do this on a main shaft inside of a trans case. Horrible idea as the runout on ball the ball bearing main shaft and trap door is no where near as accurate as that of a typical lathe. Yea, when this stuff is put onto a shaft in a trans, etc, etc. By doing this in a lathe and getting it as close to perfect as possible then whatever results in the case is a good as it can get.