Material for Sprocket Shaft Spacers

[Ohio HD]

Hey machinist guys, what material would you recommend to make motor sprocket spacers from? The spacer material needs to be hard enough to resist the sprocket shaft seal from wearing into it. That surface will be polished but needs to resist wear.

Below is an 11887 spacer with the FSG flange.


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[Ohio HD]

I'm thinking that 1018 would be a good choice, but 4140 would have better wear resistance I think.

[FSG]

I used H11 tool steel, but I'm in Oz so don't know what that equates to in US,
that said the H11 was probably overkill ...... 

[Ohio HD]

I imagine F11 can be bought, maybe not a common material here. Comparing the info I found it looks like 4140 is similar, but not as hard or as much yield strength. There are other materials in the specs, but I think these are most prevalent in comparing. The F11 has a higher Chromium content and less Iron.

I imagine both of these material are overkill, but that's also my middle name when I was at Ingersoll Rand. I had everything overbuilt.


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[kd]

You could use something that machines a fine surface and some case hardening powder buffed to a fine polish with emory cloth. That should take care of wear characteristics.  I don't see needing to be too concerned with compression.

[Ohio HD]

Yeah I think 4140 is also overkill, but it's readily available at discount steel stores. I do plan to use fine emery and I also have 1" stripes of 1,000 and 2,000 crocus cloth.

[FSG]

got this pic from PerTronix , more on that in Blackers Comp Nut thread 

[FSG]

I don't see needing to be too concerned with compression.

as long as it can handle the comp nut torque 

[kd]

I don't see needing to be too concerned with compression.

as long as it can handle the comp nut torque 

And vibration impact when he's lugging it.

[crock]

got this pic from PerTronix , more on that in Blackers Comp Nut thread 

Looks to be hardened and ground. Wonder what the Rockwell is on it?

[SP33DY]

I have machined Twin Cam sprocket spacers to correct primary chain alignment. The O.E.M. spacers are very hard. They are much harder to cut than 4140. There must be a reason why the factory opted for a more expensive and difficult to machine alloy for those spacers. Just a thought, maybe they're powderd metal? I have encountered powdered metal valve seats (not Harley) that were very hard to cut. I would be inclined to use 4130 or 4140 to make a flanged spacer, and incorporate as generous of a corner radius as is practical.

[Billy]

I've machined them before too, they're very hard, probably approaching HRC60 to resist the seal from wearing into it. You should hardness test an OE part and find a material you can harden to match it. I've been out of the trade for 17 years, but I think you can get 4140 hard enough.

[98s1lightning]

Anytime I worked with 1018 it was complete garbage.

Super finicky on cutter type, feed/speed, and crappy finishes

I wouldn't use it for anything driveline

Maybe a sissy bar or something, but I prolly wouldn't use it on my bike at all. 1018 is a big frown for me when I hear it mentioned.

Ya maybe 4140

I made some valve stem keepers out of 4140 pre hard and they held up, for the miles I rode on them. I think on an application like that they would fail instantly if the rating wasn't correct.

[SixShooter14]

4140 is a good choice. I've made tons and tons of gears, sprockets, and spacers with 1045 (gears and sprockets are induction hardened after machining)

[Ohio HD]

Thanks guys. I'll look into 4140 deeper. 

[Ohio HD]

I figure I may as well use D2 and be done with it. Overkill? Sure, but easily found and I doubt the seal will ever mark the surface. I mean you never see automotive axles marked from a seal. I assume they use some hard material like D2.

That material is to hard for me to fool with with my toy lathe. But I have a guy about five miles away that has a job shop at his residence. Machining center, CNC mill, manual mills, CNC lathe, manual lathes, etc. I don't think he has a grinder so I'll ask about his being able to reach a fine surface finish.

I added a large radius at the flange.




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[FSG]

 

[98s1lightning]

I was gonna mention D2 but wasn't sure how much tougher it is to work with than 4140. We worked with both but we were using CNC's w coolant.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

There's some apples/oranges going on here...

Anything that's up in the 50+ Rc area is hardened steel, either pre or post machining. Comparing 4140 to D2 isn't a valid comparison.

 Hardening D2 at home isn't going to work well. It needs 1850f in an inert atmosphere then air quenching.

 A better DIY choice is O1... torch to cherry red then drop in tranny fluid, temper in a toaster oven @ 500f or so after.

If hardness around 30 or so is OK use pre-hardened 17-4 rod from McMaster Carr. Soft enough for machining with no post HT. Plus it's stainless so no corrosion issues. 17-4 rod

Lots of options 

[Admiral Akbar]

4040 or 4042 is fine..

You can use 1144 stress proof.   I've also used 01 tool and 416 stainless not hardened.

[Ohio HD]

4040 or 4042 is fine..

You can use 1144 stress proof.   I've also used 01 tool and 416 stainless not hardened.

Thanks Max.

[98s1lightning]

Are you cutting this with coolant?

Or are you turning it on a hand crank lathe dry?

[Ohio HD]

I'm sure Dan will use his machining center. His prices aren't terrible, and he's only six corn fields from me.