2016 FLSTFBS Timken tool question

Started by Wookie3011, February 10, 2025, 09:34:46 PM

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Wookie3011

I'm in the process of opening cases on 2016 FLSTFBS. It has the timken upgrade from previous work. My question is in reference to a tool that can push out the crank on the left half case. I have the jims #1047-TP. The holes do not line up for the 6 hole primary. I also have the Jims #995 but it is specifically described as a case splitter only. Is this safe to use to push out the Crank from the case and ultimately Timken? If not suggestions? Would prefer a hand tool option for ease but I do have a press I can use if necessary. Thanks
I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.

rigidthumper

The softail engines have a plate bolted to the left case half to support the counter balancer setup, so you can not push the flywheels from the primary side until that assembly is removed. After all the counter balance pieces are removed, you can use a regular shop press, or the 995 case tool.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Wookie3011

Perfect,thanks Robin. Been a little slow getting to it. Seems like everything happens all at once sometimes. Needed the harley wrenching therapy. I'm just a wierd guy as it's like reloading ammo, brings me peace and Solice. I believe your talking about the Balancer support assembly 14728-07?
I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.

rigidthumper

Yes. I use the case wedge points to separate the case halves, lift off the cam side, remove all the balancer parts, the press the wheels out.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Wookie3011

I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.

Wookie3011

Once I get the wheels out of the left Timken setup what is the rules or best practice? If the timken is still good do I reuse or replace? I've always replaced if I'm there already in other projects. Waiting on my Rowe setup to get here to see how healthy the crankshaft is. Its one thing to get measurements in the cases but the ultimate removal of all variables is to have the truing stand. Found one on Ebay. Guess it's alot heavier then the seller remembered and is having a hard time shipping.
I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.

koko3052

If there is no damage to the bearings after inspection then reuse. That's the beauty of the Timken, it's adjustable.👍

Wookie3011

I ordered a new DH Crank for these heavier pistons. Already pressed out the races and will go all new with the new. Is there a process for mating the Timken to the new races?
I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.

Ohio HD

#8
No mating, just cleanliness and the proper free play.

The target free play range is 0.001" to 0.005". Using a dummy shaft set up tool, set the bearing free play to be about 0.0015" to 0.0020" more than the desired final free play.

Example:
Say the final free play desired is 0.0025". So in the tool you want to have 0.0025 + 0.0015 = 0.004", Then to 0.0025" + 0.002" = 0.0045".

You want to try and minimize the number of times the bearing is pressed on and off the crank as possible. Optimally you won't have to as long as the free play ends up in the 0.001" to 0.005" range.

Wookie3011

I've never met anyone to dumb to get it but many to smart.