compensator

[edward]

I have a 2016 ultra I have a rattle in the primary sounds like Its coming from the compensator I have the cover off and the comp looks good so does everything else. the bike has 25000 miles on It do the spring pack go bad.

[rigidthumper]

The spring pack does get weak over time. You can add shims to increase the tension, or replace the spring pack.

[Tacocaster]

Unfortunately edward, they all look good when static - short of complete spring destruction as occurred with the older comps (07-08-ish).

Primary chain within SM deflection specs? No obvious chain whisper marks on the inner or outer primary ribs or surfaces?

Other more experienced Members may give you better advice later in this thread but here's what I'd do:

With Outer Primary Cover off, trans in neutral, rear wheel off the ground an inch or a little more and some strategically placed rags to catch the "fling" (not too close to moving parts), fire 'er up! and listen with your ears and eyes. Roll the throttle just a little. Pull-in the clutch lever and hold a couple times (noisier when lever IN as clutch plates go loose). Drop it into first gear but stay off the throttle. There's little to no load like this but it might be worn enough to rattle if it is the comp.

There's a lot of natural background noise to ignore but comp issues can  be prominent enough to discern.

Still not sure? Take the comp apart and look for excessive wear on the ramps.

Yet still not sure enough but you're pretty sure it's the comp? Buy replacement springs, if we still can - lot cheaper than buying the whole unit when not sure. Measure the new vs old stack height and buy the spacers, if necessary to set it up to the correct stack height as described in earlier comp threads found here in HTT (Not found in SM).

You can re-use the original Comp Bolt once but I'd replace after being torqued twice - IOW, don't use three times.

Watch here for more informed suggestions from the guys.

[edward]

thanks for the info appreciate it. one more question do I have to remove the inner primary to get the hub out.
I want to see how the stator is

[Tacocaster]

"......remove the Inner Primary...the hub out? ......I want to see how the stator is."

You lost me. I can't relate these parts you identify.

To check/see the Stator you'll need to pull/install the Compensator and the Clutch Hub together with the Primary Chain as a unit - don't flip that chain if you take it off and be careful you don't damage the threads on the shafts. Now you can see the Rotor. On older models the Inner Primary had to come off before the Rotor but I think newer models have clearance from the Manufacturer.

Pulling the Rotor will expose the Stator. Be careful pulling/installing the Rotor, it may snap-back under magnetic force/pressure and dislodge the magnets.

[edward]

I want to look at the stator do I have to remove the inner primary cover to get the hub out that covers the stator
I have been told on some bikes you have to.

[hattitude]

I want to look at the stator do I have to remove the inner primary cover to get the hub out that covers the stator
I have been told on some bikes you have to.

The "Hub" is the rotor. I forget the exact year, but it was pre-2010 I believe, you need to remove the inner primary to remove the rotor. (or clearance the lower, left portion of the inner primary)

You have a 2016, you should be able to remove your rotor with the inner primary in place...

See Tacocastor's post right above your question. He gave you good tips on doing just that..

[bump]

I replaced the stator in my 02FLHTCI without removing the inner primary. Have done it on a 05 also.

[Tacocaster]

Good stuff, Bump!
I have not been as lucky.

[edward]

thanks for all your help guys

[Coyote]

02 was different than later bikes. Later bikes you need to remove the inner primary. You can grind it a bit near the bottom while it's off and then you can leave it in place if you need to pull the stator again..

[Coyote]

Here is one I did. Pic shows where to grind it and it doesn't take much to allow clearance.

You cannot view this attachment.

[FSG]

while you have the rotor off run a 3/8" Tap through the two holes, while not really necessary it does make rotor removal/installation a lot easier.

[edward]

what do you guys use to clean the threads inside the shaft where the comp bolt goes and thanks for all the help

[Coyote]

Take an old bolt and cut 4 grooves down it with an angle grinder. Use that to chase out the old loctite.

[FSG]

for example 

[CarlosGGodfrog]

Will the early TC Compensators work in the later TCs ? They were bulletproof.

[Ohio HD]

Will the early TC Compensators work in the later TCs ? They were bulletproof.

No, they will not.

[Hossamania]

Will the early TC Compensators work in the later TCs ? They were bulletproof.

No, they will not.

Hence the problems with the newer design.

[Ohio HD]

Will the early TC Compensators work in the later TCs ? They were bulletproof.

No, they will not.

Hence the problems with the newer design.

The latest design TC OEM compensator is no problem to run. If you have the OEM outer primary with the oil scoop cast in, you can use the OEM part numbers. If you don't have the cast in oil scoop, purchase the SE version with the plastic glue on scoop.

I have an SE unit on my 124" TC, it's doing just fine.

[twincam8888]

Truw that on 5 speeds but on the first couple years of 6 speeds you need to remove the inner primary or "clearance" the inner primary at the rotor.

[IronButt70]

I want to look at the stator do I have to remove the inner primary cover to get the hub out that covers the stator
I have been told on some bikes you have to.

The "Hub" is the rotor. I forget the exact year, but it was pre-2010 I believe, you need to remove the inner primary to remove the rotor. (or clearance the lower, left portion of the inner primary)

You have a 2016, you should be able to remove your rotor with the inner primary in place...

See Tacocastor's post right above your question. He gave you good tips on doing just that..

FWIW I had to grind quite a bit on my 17 softail to get enough clearance to remove the rotor without removing the inner primary cover.

[Ohio HD]

My 2008 and 2009 touring bikes I also had to open up the inner primary to gain the clearance needed for the rotor removal. 

[edward]

I bought the screaming eagle compensator today and there is a plastic oiler in the kit do I need it because my outer primary cover looks like it has it cast in it. thanks for all your help

[Ohio HD]

If it looks like this you're good to go. The scoop drops oil on the T70 Torx bolt that holds the compensator together. The angled head of the Torx wicks the oil into the center of the compensator where it's needed.