Broke my swingarm...

[Hossamania]

On my '01 Road King. I've been keeping an eye on it because I knew it was an issue with this model. Still, it was a surprise!

Went to change the tire cause I thought that was causing the wobble in the corners. Swingarm was broken clean thru.
Bike does get overloaded at times. 56,000 miles, hi-po motor, some throttle abuse, and I have the offset mounts for the shocks to lower it, so I really don't blame the swingarm!

Now my options;  Install a new swingarm- an adventure I'm ready to tackle but not looking forward to.
                        Take it to my Indie and have them change it, but they are on a rare vacation until July 8th.
                        Let my neighbor, who is a master welder, have a crack at welding it up.

I'm starting with the 3rd option cause I'm cheap and can get it done soon. I know some will question the wiseness of that decision but I like to live a little dangerously anyway so what the Hell!

Anyway, if I need to change it I'll look at a new sidecar belt also.  How much is a stator and should I consider it as well?

If I do need to change it I will be asking a few tech questions, reading the manual feverishly, and drinking heavily!

Sorry for the long post, thanks for listening, and any advise and tips will be appreciated.

  Hoss

[Ultrashovel]

See if you can update to a later model. I don't know when they changed but my 2004 Ultra has a much different unit than the eatlier ones.

[Hossamania]

I know that in '02 they improved the swingarm and went to 1" axles. That may be an option but I'm not ready for the hassle of changing the axle, bearings spacers, etc.

[Airglider]

 :idea:It would be best to remove the swingarm prior to welding. This way, you won't take a chance of current running through the bike and frying something.

AG

[tireater]

You can get complete rear ends from trike makers for cheap on e bay...
I paid $150 for everything inc tire, rim, swing arm with axel and spacers and brake caliper...

[76shuvlinoff]

tireater's suggestion sounds like the best deal.

If welding I'd insert a steel plug if possible (like when extending a frame) then weld.

[tmwmoose]

 Very interesting  where is the break?

[Phu Cat]

If you try to have it rewelded, reinforcing that area and its mating area on the opposite side, might be a good idea.  But then, I'm not a welder (or a very good mechanic).

PC

[surf]

If your as cheap as I am you wont change the stator till it's broke. Hopefully that will be close to home for us. Besides, who can say the one you put in will last long. (Knocking on wood while I type this)

[reh3]

If you update the swingarm to a later model, you'll also have to change the rear wheel, not just the bearings. You can put 3/4" bearings in a 1" axle wheel, but not the 1" in a 3/4" wheel. Even though the 1" bearings  will fit the 3/4" wheel, the inside diameter of the hub on the 3/4" wheel is smaller, and will not accept the 1" inner spacer.

The update is well worth it. I put a late model on an 01 I had a few years back. I used the STA-BO kit. Great improvement. There are a lot of other kits out there now, I'd look for one. Drilling out the trans case for the larger pivot shaft ain't such a geat idea either. Some have had sucess with this method, but I've also seen some cracked tranny cases.

[L-]

I would try welding and then install the blocks from JP as they have  a large area to help from splitting.

L-

[PC_Hater]

It should/might be possible to use your existing rear wheel and brake assembly if you fit a later swingarm.
The 3/4" axle will fit quite happily through the 1" hole - assuming it is long enough to go all the way through of course!
Modifications to the brake mounting plate may be required, possibly different size spacers too.
If you do this, let the weight of the bike rest on the axle and then tighten up the axle nut.

A good welder/metal worker should be able to weld in a new end section to your existing swingarm as stated in postings above.

[hotroadking]

If you weld it should be fine.

But if you want to upgrade to the newer swingarm it's not hard to do.

FBI has a ton of takeoffs from swap outs at meets to the Fat rear tire kit.

Last I heard you could get the swingarm, with axle, spacers included and new billet cleve blocks for about $200, that's way cheaper than a new HD swingarm alone.

Plus its the new single side adjuster system with the cams, so you turn one bolt and equally align both sides of the wheel, nice touch.

I couldn't remember if you have the same size pivot shaft as the later, I think you do, they have the blocks premade in the smaller diameter for the evo pivot shaft or for the newer larger.  So you don't have to bore out the trans case.

You can find takeoff wheels all over, or ou can change the bearings in your current wheel to fit the new axle...
Unless your belt needs to be replaced, why do it, it's not necessary to change the swingarm...

[Paniolo]

Like others I upgraded my '01 Ultra swing arm to the '02 later style. I was able to keep my rear wheel and install new bearings and a spacer. They bored out the caliper and saved me from buying a new one. I used one of those new style poly bushings that accomodate the older swing arm pivot bolt. I had to modify my STR8 to get it to fit. The rear is solid with no lateral movement.

However if you want to keep costs down welding is an option. Just make sure the shop welds plates OVER the cracked area to give it a reinforced bridge. But if you are going to keep the bike consider changing out the swing arm.

[specialx1]

if ya stayed outta the Joint this chit wouldnt happen to ya 
Specialx1

[Evo1]

Hmmmm..........maybe that second burger at the Meet n Greet wasn't such a good idea.

[truck]

For tmwmoose

Mine cracked here, not sure if they all crack here though.

[Hossamania]

Truck- that's where mine broke too, on the pulley side, but it broke all the way thru and separated. The only thing holding the end on was the shock!

I was planning on having extra support plates welded on top and bottom as well.
I will disconnect the battery and unplug the tuner/ ECM. I'm not pulling the swingarm to weld it, I'd just get a new swingarm if I go to that much trouble.
The J&P blocks sound like good idea. I can't install a plug as 76shovelinoff suggested as it is right at the axle hole.
Thanks for the tip on looking at the trike shops or FBI. Coincidently there is a trike shop 3 miles from the house, called The Trikeshop!

Special- staying out of The Joint and 1 less hamburger might be a good idea, but Hell, a man's got to live!
I think one of the main problems is when I learned I could pull wheelies! Like I said, I don't blame the swingarm.

[mark61]

   I weld. I ground right where I am welding and never disconnect anything. So far no trouble. Having said that I have not welded anything NEAR the electronics. I would weld that and add some gusset across the break as you plan. Did several swing arms and frames like that that are still riden long after fixing. Almost 20 years for 1 I still see riden regularly.

mark61

[Hossamania]

Mark- thanks for the encouraging words. Kind of looking forward to a cheap repair! I believe it will be stronger than the original design.

Has anyone broken the swingarm on the brake side? Wondering if I should re-enforce that side as well?

[td17056]

Mine broke the same place, only mine is a 1990 FLHT, used 02 up swing arm, sta-bo 3 bushings, 139 tooth belt, 06 rear pulley, inch and 1/8 belt and pulley, now run a mu 140 tire, 1 inch axle, (new wheel) with no clearance issues. makes me happy!!

TD

[waskier01]

The newer swingarm also has larger "tubes" and longer "gusssetting".

[Hossamania]

Anybody have the part # for the J&P axle adjusters? Can't seem to find it in the book.

[truck]

I put these on my bike. http://www.ridestr8.com/ I thought they looked beefier than anything I saw out there.


I mean the axle adjusters.

[Paniolo]

I put these on my bike. http://www.ridestr8.com/ I thought they looked beefier than anything I saw out there.

If I stayed with the OEM swing arm, those axle adjusters would have been a MUST HAVE on my bike. The shop that did the swing arm change out on mine said that the whole design is poor. The hollow box arm is easily weakend and crushable from the side after several tire changes. The lateral forces of the axle bolt squeezes the box and fatigues the metal.  Mounting the shocks behind the axle adds to the problem as the whole bike becomes a teeter-totter. The front weight of the bike sits on the front side of the swing arm, and the rear weight of the bike is placed on the shock and sits behind the swing arm. The axle becomes the fulcrum. Using a a lowering kit makes it worse because it moves the weight back even further exacerbating the teeter-totter effect. That is why in '02 they went to a SOLID axle. But with a good weld job supported with top and bottom brackets and those axle adjusters you should be okay.

Mark

[BikerJim44]

Hey Bro, I have a swingarm that is in near new condition. Came off an 01 Road King. Drop me a note if I can be of help. I'll let it go cheap, $50.00 plus shipping. Has the axel too. bikerbojo44 at yahoo dot com. Spidey.

[Hossamania]

The Ridests8ts are $160.00 for axle adjusters! I have to pass.
I thought I saw some adjusters from Jireh on this forum or the old MSN site that were much less. Anybody remember or have the number? I thought they were for a different application but worked for this year.
I have a feeling I will be replacing the swingarm, pulley, tranny pulley, rotor, belt, and shocks in the near future, or at the end of riding season. My rear pulley is pitted, my belt has 60,000 miles (some abusive) on it, and I like my bike and don't want to start over with a new one.
I appreciate the offers from the members offering swingarms for a very fair price. I will be taking advantage of these offers and will be looking for more parts soon.
I"m going to weld this one for now cause now i'm commited and stubborn, but I see the writing on the wall.

Besides parts, if I change to 2002 swingarm, what machining do I need- transmission mount for the swingarm?

[Paniolo]

if you swap over to the '02 later style you will need the poly bushings from either Sta-Bo or Motorcycle Metal. These allow you to use the 5/8 pivot shaft that came with the bike. Some folks try and drill or ream out the tranny hole. Avoid doing that if you can. It's easier to use the poly kits. I bought the Motorcycle Metal bushings off a guy who changed his mind and tried to bore out the tranny hole on his bike. He screwed it up and had to have a machine shop pull the tranny and over bore it and use an oversize pivot bolt.

[cactuscruiser]

Here is that link to the Jireh axle adjusters.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000135a~Z5Z5Z5AHBDB~P14.95~~~~S27A160T5K632271116021~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000123a

Part#    5-130   
Description   REAR AXLE BLOCK ADJUSTER    Rear axle block adjusters for late model swing arms aid in better alignment of rear axle and help prevent swing arm tube collapse due to over tightening.
Year
      
Pkg   PAIR    
Price   $14.95
Click thumbnails below for larger version    
Qty     Add to Cart
         

[truck]

If you compare pictures of the $15.00 and $160.00 adjusters you'll see that there is a lot more contact area with the expensive ones plus they come with larger diameter spacers for still more support.

[Hossamania]

Cactuscruiser- thanks for the part #'s. That's why I love thi site!

Truck- I agree the Ridestr8's are probably a better piece, but for me they're not $145.00 better.

I will soon start collecting parts for an "02 swap. I know someone listed the parts somewhere so I'll do a search and find the thread.

I know I'll need 2 new pulleys- best idea or place to find them? I'll also pick up the sidecar belt-shouldn't break from 1 or 7 wheelies!

Thanks to everyone for the help! I just re-read this whole thread and there is some great info here. Thanks.

[Ultrashovel]

Cactuscruiser- thanks for the part #'s. That's why I love thi site!

Truck- I agree the Ridestr8's are probably a better piece, but for me they're not $145.00 better.

I will soon start collecting parts for an "02 swap. I know someone listed the parts somewhere so I'll do a search and find the thread.

I know I'll need 2 new pulleys- best idea or place to find them? I'll also pick up the sidecar belt-shouldn't break from 1 or 7 wheelies!

Thanks to everyone for the help! I just re-read this whole thread and there is some great info here. Thanks.

The sidecar belts won't fit on the later pulleys AFAIK. They are for the wider (early) pulleys.

[Hossamania]

Regarding the sidecar belt, I think my new plan is to pick up another '01 swingarm and modify it with new 3-sided gussets, top, bottom, and inside, and machine the spacers to make it all work. Makes it easier for me to make everything work and fit. I know the '02 set-up is better, but now I'm on a mission! And my neighbor, the welder, is interested in making it work better also, so now we're fabricators!

Update on the original swingarm repair: Just picked up the bike with the new welds on the swingarm. Everything lined up great and the new welds are definitely stronger than stock. He was very happy with how it turned out, quality-wise. And it really rides a LOT better now that the rear end is square and secure! I think it's been broken quite a while, and I got very lucky!

Thanks to everyone, and I'm sure I'll have some new questions when pulling the primary to change the swingarm and pulleys.

By the way, any ideas on best place to look for replacement pulleys, or just go stock, probably Zannoti's or Jenny?

[PC_Hater]

I have the RideStr8 axle adjusters. I never fitted them.
You have to remove the bottom half of the rear suspension mount where it sticks down into the inside of the swing arm. That needs a dremel or something. Then the axle adjusters are still narrower than the internal width of the swing arm. That means you can still crush the swing arm where the axle goes through.
They are also very very heavy! The aluminium alloy of your choice would do the job nicely. They only have to resist being crushed. Tubes are very good at that!

I will do the late model swap when the time comes.

[Ridetard]

Seeing how this seems to be a common problem, am curious as to why MOCO hasn't issued a recall.  Surely the problem as well as the frequency of the problems warrants such action.

Probably like anything else, a few folks need to get mamed or killed before MOCO stsnds up..or goes to court.

Imagine if this was happened to your Caddie?

Better go check my ride

Good thread, thanks

[Ultrashovel]

Seeing how this seems to be a common problem, am curious as to why MOCO hasn't issued a recall.  Surely the problem as well as the frequency of the problems warrants such action.

Probably like anything else, a few folks need to get mamed or killed before MOCO stsnds up..or goes to court.

Imagine if this was happened to your Caddie?

Better go check my ride

Good thread, thanks

I'm not certain of the number of failures that are required to trigger a recall. I know that some folks had cracked swingarms on the early T.C. bikes. I never heard about it on Evos. Mostly Evos would crack the "Y" pipe on the rear cylinder.

Harley-Davidson did recognize the problem by 2003, however, when they did their update. My 2004 has one beefy swingarm on it, including a larger axle. That's good because I'm running it with a sidecar and I need all the help I can get. LOL.

If I had a pre-2003 bike that I really liked, I would certainly update to the new parts, including the wheel and axle. The best place to get those are the trike builders and installers. They literally have piles of them to sell.

I haven't heard of any injuries due to the cracked swingarms. Apparently they just crack and the bike keeps on going until the owner notices. Welding them would be OK but I would prefer some new parts, especially when you are hurtling down the macadam.

Honda had a similar problem when they redesigned the Goldwing and brought out the 1800 in 2001. They changed from a simple, reliable steel frame to save a few pounds and went to a cast alminum frame that was welded together robotically on the assembly line. They had a number of total frame failures. No one was injured that I heard about but there were lots of damaged bikes and upset owners. Around 2003 or so when the problem began to surface, they did a recall for inspection of all 2001 and later frames in the serial numbers that were considered to have been affected. Many were cracked. If the cracks were considered too bad to weld, Honda installed a new, modified frame for the owner at no charge.

If the cracks were small, there was a welding program with instructions to take the bike to certain specified welding shops in the owner's area and have it welded to specifications provided by Honda. Again, there was no charge to the owner. Too bad HD wouldn't do something like that for their pre-2003 owners. Say what you will about Honda, they handled that problem for their owners rather competently. Not everybody was happy about it but everybody who needed help got their frame repaired or replaced free.

[truck]

1995-2001 are the years with the cracking swingarms.

[Ultrashovel]

1995-2001 are the years with the cracking swingarms.

Well I guess some Evos were involved. As I said above, I never saw or heard of the problem on an EVO. I guess it must have happened, though.

[Paniolo]

I saw this over on the Delphi forum Harley Electra Glide Garage:

23599.1 

I HAVE A SWING ARM CONVERSION COMPLETE THAT I AM SELLING. WHAT THIS DOES IS ALLOW YOU TO USE YOUR STOCK CENTER PIVOT SHAFT OFF OF A 2001 OR EARLIER WITH A LATER STRONGER SELF CENTERING SWING ARM. I HAVE EVERY THING YOU NEED INCLUDED. A 2005 FLHT SWING ARM WITH THE STA-BO III, AXLE ASSY W/SPACERS,SILVER REAR BRAKE CALIPER,PULLEY,REAR BRAKE DISC, REAR BLACK NINE SPOKE WHEEL AND TIRE. I AM ASKING 350.00 PLUS SHIPPING. THE STA-BO KIT ALONE COST ME 225.OO. SHIPPING WOULD BE FROM 75002. --> -->

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Troy Dykes

Purple People Eater

Gaelsig1203

Now that's a GREAT Deal!!!!