Saddlebag latch spring

[Snorth]

Noticed the saddlebag latch on my right saddlebag felt different and think I finally chased it down to a broken spring at the hinge on the latch.  After looking at it for awhile I don't think the spring serves any critical function and it also looks like to fix the spring I'd have to comepletely replace the saddlebag latch.  Anyone know if this is a correct assessment of the situation?  Or am I wrong like usual?

Thanx
Snorth

[road-dawgs1]

90665-93 $83.00 retail It's not showing as you can get the spring separately

[jackson]

You can get a spring from H-D for about $2.  It is an easy fix, look it up in the repair manual for your bike if you have one.  The rod that the spring is on will come out one way only, you can use pliers to work it out.

[Ed Y]

Saddlebag latch spring is part # 90707-00. No need to replace the whole latch. Cost of the spring is very little. Order more than 1 when you order it. Here's the insts on fixing it.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[PoorUB]

That spring is another thing that a drop of oil once in a while will help it live longer. The spring gets rusty after a while and then gets weak, then fails.

[JohnnyM]

FWIW, I have the same problem on my FLHRCI, latches won't stay latched.  Called Jenni @ 513/874-4343.  The above part number is correct.  Jenni has them in stock and mine are on the way.

[jumpinjack]

 Glad u asked this as i developed the same problem over the weekend. Was looking at the spring and thought oh great i need a new latch as HD likes to sell parts. But only a spring that is great. Now if my eyes were a little better......more light maybe,,,
Jack

[Snorth]

Thanx Ed, that looks a lot more simple than I thought it would be   .  How come I suspect it's because it's a part the MoCo hasn't redesigned in a while?   

Snorth

[Jeffd]

I had to replace my springs in both bags and I swear it was a bigger pain in the a$$ than doing a big bore, heads and cams LOL.

[WVULTRA]

If you have to replace the spring, take a look at the ends of the new ones.  They're usually cut in a way that leaves a sharp edge.  Will dig in to latch causing premature wear/breakage.

File/ground those ends smooth prior to install, and as noted above, keep a bit of lube on 'em.

[Boe Cole]

Going through the posts and found this one.  My spring broke months ago and I was going to let it go - not worth HD$.  Will do the fix now that I can get just the spring.  Thank you for the posts on this - really made my evening:-)

[Rags722]

To All,

Here are a couple of tips for those about to do a spring replacement.

Don't bother going through the frustration of trying to do this with the lid still attached.  Remove the latch from the lid and bag.  Look at the latch and see where the spring ends used to sit and mark them with a magic marker.  This will help keep your sanity when you start to wonder if you are doing things right.  The first time or two you will fight getting the spring in correctly, then it kinda falls in place.  I personally dont think the need to fie or grind the ends of the spring is needed, but you do need to clean up the rod that goes through the spring.  Then when it is all back together, put ONE drop of oil on the center of the spring.  Repeat once a year and you will never have a spring failure again.  The ends break because the spring binds up on the rod.  If lubricated, you won't have that problem.
Rags

[still_on2_wheels]

I have found that a light coating of grease on the spring lasts longer than oil.

Jeff

[HDDOC]

I have oiled for years and they still break, never seen a differance.  Doc

[OFBagger]

FIW, the Owner's Manual recommends to "lubricate hinges, latches - fuel door, tour-pak, saddlebags"  5000 mile intervals.  Even though it is a PITA I keep the saddlebags locked, helps keep them from popping open on the big bumps.
OFB