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OEM paper cyl base gasket

Started by xlfan, May 02, 2024, 06:28:41 AM

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Finn, lilchief, 98fxstc, HogMike, spyderchc, Breeze, sporty88 and 11 Guests are viewing this topic.

xlfan

Has anyone got a magic formula for a liquid that can dissolve this base gasket besides harsh mechanical removal with the risk of damaging the cylinder base gasket surface?

rigidthumper

Sometimes you can soak them in Knock'er Loose and then scrape with a plastic blade.
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes you wanna buy a lathe so you can machine that stuff off  :wink: .
(I bought the lathe)
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

SP33DY

I tried a few things that didn't work!

 Now when I get an Evo cylinder with baked on gaskets, I use a mandrel to hold the cylinder in the lathe and carefully skim it off. Often when I do this I find out that the base is no longer flat. There are areas that didn't "clean-up" once the gasket is mostly gone. It usually only takes a skim of a few thousandths of an inch to restore the whole base to flat. It's faster to do it this way than with the old Trock lapping plate. Going back together, I like to install oil drain pigtails (V-Twin 16-0912). To tap the drain hole I use a spiral flute "drill tap" (McMaster Carr 3464A21 or 2748A47). The drill tap is a close fit in the hole so the tapping operation is straight.

drill tap 1

drill tap 2

SixShooter14

Quote from: SP33DY on May 02, 2024, 08:00:26 AMI tried a few things that didn't work!

 Now when I get an Evo cylinder with baked on gaskets, I use a mandrel to hold the cylinder in the lathe and carefully skim it off. Often when I do this I find out that the base is no longer flat. There are areas that didn't "clean-up" once the gasket is mostly gone. It usually only takes a skim of a few thousandths of an inch to restore the whole base to flat. It's faster to do it this way than with the old Trock lapping plate. Going back together, I like to install oil drain pigtails (V-Twin 16-0912). To tap the drain hole I use a spiral flute "drill tap" (McMaster Carr 3464A21 or 2748A47). The drill tap is a close fit in the hole so the tapping operation is straight.

drill tap 1

drill tap 2

Exactly how I did it after a few days of wrestling with plastic razor blade scrapers and carb cleaner, it went on the lathe.
'97 Road King, Rinehart True Dual, HSR42, 10:1, EVL3010, 2000i

xlfan

Quote from: SP33DY on May 02, 2024, 08:00:26 AMI tried a few things that didn't work!

 Now when I get an Evo cylinder with baked on gaskets, I use a mandrel to hold the cylinder in the lathe and carefully skim it off.


Got a picture of that mandrel?

SP33DY

Here's a link that shows what I use now. It goes between centers.

Mandrel

I don't think I paid that much, I found a whole set that went from 1/2" to something over 4" a long time ago. Prior to that I held the head end of the cylinder in the headstock chuck and supported the base end with a rotating 3MT chuck in the tail stock. Here's a link to that.

Chuck

I didn't like expanding the jaws inside the base spigot, I was worried about distorting or cracking it. That's why I switched to using the mandrel.

jsachs1

Yesterday at 02:34:00 PM #6 Last Edit: Yesterday at 02:38:16 PM by jsachs1
I use a 6 jaw chuck, and made an angle/taper aluminium slug in the rear/id of the cylinder with a true flat area to indicate off of and center hole. I use this with a dial indicator on a live tailstock. 100 % accuracy. Love the mandrel, but way out of my price league.
John