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Installing new nose cone

Started by HotRodShovel, September 29, 2009, 05:16:35 PM

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HotRodShovel

I know there is a way to ream the cam bushing from the needle bearing while the cases are split, coming in from the inside out to the nosecone, but how do I make sure the new bushing is properly aligned to accept a new cam when the bottom end is assembled and in the bike?
I'm just swapping out the cover and cam, that's it (oh yeah, and the needle bearing if I get the tools $$$) not touching the pinion or breather other than to re align them when I install the cover.
Sometimes life is like trying to share a sandwich with Rosie O'Donnell. 
John

easyricer

I haven't done it yet but the tools are pretty easily self explanatory. The cam bushing should be sized and then you use plasti-gauge to check how tight it is on the pinion gear and breather. Can't remember the tolerance off the top of my head. Tight is gonna whine and loose will clatter a bit. You can order the gears in under and oversizes to fit.
EASY
Just ride the damned thing!

HotRodShovel

Much obliged Easy. Sounds OK. I thought there would be more to. Thanks gain.
Sometimes life is like trying to share a sandwich with Rosie O'Donnell. 
John

billbuilds

     Rudy,
     Jim's make a cam bushing reamer tool. I believe that it uses the right side crank case (with Torrington bearing in place) to line ream the brass bushing in your cam cover. Obviously you'll need to bolt your cam cover to your right side case half and since you say that yours is already apart your're half way there. I would most definately install a new Torrington bearing before doing this procedure. This tool is not particularly inexpensive so you may want to check with a local shop to see if they have one and what they'd charge you. Good luck, Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

billbuilds

     Rudy,
     Once you have the reaming procedure complete you can simply install your cam and cam cover on the case half and spin the cam thru the lifter block spigots. Should spin freely and have front to back movement most of which will be taken up by the thrust washer and proper shim. Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

ricochet

Maybe it's me but are we answering his real question?  Whether there's a way to do the ream and checking proceedure without splitting the cases?  Is there a tool that mounts outboard of the inner cam bearing to check/ream the bushing?  I've seen in another forum about doing this by hand the old fashioned way using the actual cam, some prussion blue and tool makers scraper.  Primative but could work.

ricochet

billbuilds

     Rudy,
     Sorry, I was under the assumption that you cases were split. An Indy about a half hours drive from me uses an old right side crank case half along with the reaming tool and the customer's cam cover. He claims it gets his work w/in factory spec. Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

HotRodShovel

Hey guys, Thank you very much for your replies. Yep Bill, Ricochet is correct, my motor is assembled in a running bike, but I appreciate your input all the same. Ricochet, I think I will just put it in and turn it as best I can and see if its hanging up at all.
Sometimes life is like trying to share a sandwich with Rosie O'Donnell. 
John

ricochet

Good point about using another right side case.  When I saw the old scraper method in another forum it sounded crued but the more you think about it it's just the way things were done by hand and there's nothing wrong with that.  Sometimes seeing, feeling and measuring is better than just cutting and assuming.

ricochet

neten-o

I think that to have the right tool for the job ie the cam bearing reamer is the best answer to fitting a new cam ..I have a new nose cone and new cam ,when I offer them up, not on the crankcase ..they fit nicely  and I know that we are talking about lineament ...but I would think that on the face of it only a small amount of metal will need to be removed ...this could be achieved with care I am sure .. what matters is freedom to rotate and end float I know that this has been stated before, but from the one that I have It would seem that little metal would need to be removed .. but I could be wrong..Rich.. :smilep:

Dan89flstc

If the nosecone came from the manufacturer with the bushing already installed it may not need to be reamed. I know the s&s cover I bought a few years ago was plug and play...
US Navy Veteran 1974-1979 (AD2) A&P Mechanic
1989 FLSTC, 2019 FLHT, 2022 FLHTCUTG

HotRodShovel

Yep the bushing was pre-installed and the new cam seats well into it. I am pretty secure in thinking it is aligned.
Sometimes life is like trying to share a sandwich with Rosie O'Donnell. 
John