Stupid is as stupid does

[speed limit]

Went to a party last night they had a burnout pit going after a few  got talked into doing a burnout, did one for what seemed like 30 seconds did a short holeshot leaving the pit and parked bike.  fired up bike a couple hours later to go home and knock knock knock left for home did`nt hear anything above idle but stoped at a light and knock was still there. so it seems I only have knock at idle and a loud clunk when I shut it off. any ideers ?

[Mark222]

Sorry to hear you may have trouble

What's the year / model of your ride.  How many miles and mods?
Mark

[choseneasy]

I'd look at the compensating sprocket first.

[speed limit]

98 R.K.  ultima 127" wood`s 9f s.t.d. head`s jim`s 6 speed stock clutch with barnett pressure plate 83,000 miles orignal comp sprocket. just went for a short ride when its knocks I can feel It in the frame and floor board`s

[Jeffd]

motor mount?

[codyshop]

I'd look at the compensating sprocket first.

We have a winner!  Ray

[grandpa tom]

I always remember the 5 words that my dad taught me.   U break it, its Urs and that meant I pay for it...all through the 60's, chevy's SS's. GTO's. all highpo cars I never tore out anything,

Urs should not fall in this one but After getting ours, two things I read that was the hardest on the B motors where, Burnouts, and high rpm downshifting (like dropping 2-3 gears).

Hope it nothing major...

[td17056]

How about a tooth missing on the drive belt??

[Clintster]

Get a look at it yet ?

[ChromeWhore]

I would check the bolt on the compensating sprocket. When it comes loose, it makes a nasty knock because it's flying around and once the bolt hits the sprocket, the bolt slams against the cover. This happened to me. It probably doesn't knock much at higher RPMs because the bolt is pinned against the cover by pressure. I recommend that the bolt gets tighten down more than factor specs. Probably about 10-15lbs more torque on the bolt than factory spec. The dealership also agrees factory specs isn't enough torque for the bolt. This shouldn't be an expensive fix. The additional part that is a little delicate that would've been damaged is the sator. That will cost a few bucks to replace.

Urs should not fall in this one but After getting ours, two things I read that was the hardest on the B motors where, Burnouts, and high rpm downshifting (like dropping 2-3 gears).

Roadkings have B motors? / Not likely...


--CW

[93evorider]

 had same knock at idle-check your compessator nut and or rotor- seen the rotor break where they are splined onto th engine shaft

[chief-z]

seems to me there was a bullitin on comp sprocket nuts a while back and there was a either a new washer or nut to correct them comming lose.

[HV]

I would check the bolt on the compensating sprocket. When it comes loose, it makes a nasty knock because it's flying around and once the bolt hits the sprocket, the bolt slams against the cover. This happened to me. It probably doesn't knock much at higher RPMs because the bolt is pinned against the cover by pressure. I recommend that the bolt gets tighten down more than factor specs. Probably about 10-15lbs more torque on the bolt than factory spec. The dealership also agrees factory specs isn't enough torque for the bolt. This shouldn't be an expensive fix. The additional part that is a little delicate that would've been damaged is the sator. That will cost a few bucks to replace.

Urs should not fall in this one but After getting ours, two things I read that was the hardest on the B motors where, Burnouts, and high rpm downshifting (like dropping 2-3 gears).

Roadkings have B motors? / Not likely...




Its neither an A or a B ...its EVO Style .....

--CW

[harleyjt]

I would check the bolt on the compensating sprocket. When it comes loose, it makes a nasty knock because it's flying around and once the bolt hits the sprocket, the bolt slams against the cover. This happened to me. It probably doesn't knock much at higher RPMs because the bolt is pinned against the cover by pressure. I recommend that the bolt gets tighten down more than factor specs. Probably about 10-15lbs more torque on the bolt than factory spec. The dealership also agrees factory specs isn't enough torque for the bolt. This shouldn't be an expensive fix. The additional part that is a little delicate that would've been damaged is the sator. That will cost a few bucks to replace.

Urs should not fall in this one but After getting ours, two things I read that was the hardest on the B motors where, Burnouts, and high rpm downshifting (like dropping 2-3 gears).

Roadkings have B motors? / Not likely...

Its not a Harley engine.. according to his 2nd post its an Ultima 127"... what does that make it - still an evo style engine?
jt




Its neither an A or a B ...its EVO Style .....

--CW

[mrmike]

OK guys you can tar and feather me if I'm talkin outta my hole but I've noticed that most after market motors are based on the EVO design like the SnS sidewinders and such.
That said clunk at Idle and shut down points away from anything south of the primary including the tranny.
Compensator nut is a nice simple place to look though and you can check the clutch nut as well.
Had a buddy with an SnS 117"sidewinder that had the clutch basket nut loosen to the pont that he had no clutch and it began to rub the inside of the primary, fortunately we found the problem early before any real damage occured course no clutch is a great way to realise you have a problem, lol.

Jus tossin my 2 centavos in,

Mike

[speed limit]

Have not had a chance to look yet had another bike on the table.