How to eliminate bank angle sensor??

[uwiik]

I am in the process of converting my 2000 FLHTCUI EFI to carburetor, I kinda ordered the wrong parts and ended up with 2004 up twin tec single plug ignition module and wire plus single plug ignition harness.
As 2004 and up ignition module and harness does not come with two plugs, there is no extra plug to connect the module to 2000 style socket number 8 (clymer's wire diagram for 2000 flht), that socket number 8 contains speed signal, oil pres switch, secondary 12v coil supply, and bank angle wire (only green grey wire from bank angle sensor). I have figured out that I can do direct wire to wire conection from the wire plus wire harness to speed signal, oil pres switch, and secondary 12v coil supply, so it's not a problem. However there is no cable from the wire plus harness to my original bank angle sensor (green grey cable), and after I studied 2003-2005 wiring harness, there is no bank angle sensor wire on it, is it going to be a problem? Would my engine fire up without this green grey bank angle sensor cable connected? I have heard people had success converting their 2000 EFI bike to 2004 up carburetor ignition system, but I could not find a detailed explanation, especially regarding this absent of bank angle wires on 2004 system. Is there any way to disable the bank angle sensor altogether, or I can fool the bank angle sensor with a jumper wire or something?

[Admiral Akbar]

While I'm not sure about the later module CAN bus stuff, I believe that you ground the BAS wire as that is what I had to do when I wired a DTT (99-03?) into an Evo wiring harness.  Max

[uwiik]

There are 3 wires that connect to BAS. Which color need to be grounded? Basically, will the engine fire up if I just ditch the bank angle sensor altogether?

[drs23]

It's been a few years since I messed with it but there's one wire that needs +5v. If it's not present there was a code 44 (BAS) and it would not start.

Keep us posted on what you do to make it work.

Dale

[smoserx1]

It's been a few years since I messed with it but there's one wire that needs +5v.

Just finished messing with my ignition circuit (99 FLHT), had a short.  Yes, BAS pulls +12V from ignition wire just downstream from fuse and receives - from ground.  If working properly it sends +5V to ECM, and the ECM will definitely bitch if it does not see this signal.

I don't know that much about electricity, but can you put an appropriately sized resistor in series with the ECM to fool it?

[Geezer_Glider]

Isn't there +5v on an ultra for some of the gauges? Could tap that, maybe?
R Meyer

[FLTRI]

Isn't there +5v on an ultra for some of the gauges? Could tap that, maybe?
R Meyer

Gauges are 12v - most sensors are 5v.

[Admiral Akbar]

While I'm not sure about the later module CAN bus stuff, I believe that you ground the BAS wire as that is what I had to do when I wired a DTT (99-03?) into an Evo wiring harness.  Max

Yeah, I screwed up.. The wire I grounded was the ignition enable going into the pre 04. module.. This will defeat all security / bas modes IIRC.. The BAS goes to the TSSM first. On a 2002 FI I think the status is communicated via the serial bus to the ECM (i think).  Not sure how it's done on an 04.
Max

[wurk_truk]

Wire a 560 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor off of the 12 volt switched ignition circuit, and wire it into the input on the ECM that the BAS normally feeds.

this resistor should get you pretty close to the 5vdc.  A 560 will fire a single 5v LED on a 12 volt vehicle.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062321&CAWELAID=107597575

[ederdelyi]

 

This oughta be good :>)

[Admiral Akbar]

Wire a 560 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor off of the 12 volt switched ignition circuit, and wire it into the input on the ECM that the BAS normally feeds.

First off no ECM.. Did it go to the ECM on a MM FI system??

BTW Ed You are no help here...   

Look at this..

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/download/TC88A_OE_Wiring.pdf

Not sure which module you are trying to use but the above DTT Does not have a BAS sensor mentioned anywhere. If that is the case the BAS is probably connected to the TSSM and communicated via the J1850 bus.. If that is the case.. I'd leave it alone..

Max

[ederdelyi]

>>BTW Ed You are no help here...   <<

I agree ... on both counts 

1. I was trying to be nice.

2. Just waiting to see who would figure it out.

[uwiik]

Like I said the bike is 2000 flhtcui and the new carb ignition module is 2004 model from DTT, So there no big socket that plug to the socket that used to feeds the marelli ECM. I managed to find where all the wire connects from the module to where the ecm was, but not the BAS sensor wire that's coming from where the marelli ecm were (it's green grey color).

Wire a 560 Ohm 1/2 watt resistor off of the 12 volt switched ignition circuit, and wire it into the input on the ECM that the BAS normally feeds.

this resistor should get you pretty close to the 5vdc.  A 560 will fire a single 5v LED on a 12 volt vehicle.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062321&CAWELAID=107597575

I tend to agree with wurk_truk 
Maybe I'll try that. Can I just jump wire and use power supply from the secondary 12v ignition coil supply (white black) fitted with the resistor??

[ederdelyi]

My inferior understanding prevents my grasping the unquestionable soundness of your goals, therefore I decline to comment further.

Clue: Ohms law

[wurk_truk]

OK then?  What resistor makes 12 v into 5v?
Or?  why not install a BAS and have system working properly?

Either way.........  get tired of non-helpful posts that I don't have the insider knowledge of.

So, "Potty mouth"k all of you

[ederdelyi]

For a series dropping resistor to drop the correct amount of voltage to a fixed load one needs to know the current draw of the load. For example:

12V source, load needs 5v @ 10.25 mA. Resistor needs to drop 7V.

E= IR, solving for R, R=E/I = 7/.0125 = 560 ohms.

If the current changes or the source voltage changes then the load may not get the desired voltage.

The "proper" way would be to use a voltage divider circuit, where the divider current is roughly 10 times the load current to minimize variations.

Max is headed in the right direction as the BAS was incorporated into the TSM/TSSM on the later models and the DTT unit should not care if the BAS signal is absent ... should work without the BAS.

So, you can potty mouth us all if you wish, kinda hard to do over the Internet 

[wurk_truk]

I actually thought of the load.  I would think actually around a 1400 would work based upon a tiny 'load' being read by the ECM/DTT? MM/ etc.  A splitter would work better.

But for you to taunt me just sucks instead of just stating what the hell you may know?  Why be an asshole?  Why not teach to us lesser mortal humans?

It's why this site sucks anymore.  Too many 'insiders' and NO help to folks who wish to fix our stuff or learn.

"Potty mouth"K YOU!  HAHA

[Admiral Akbar]

My inferior understanding prevents my grasping the unquestionable soundness of your goals, therefore I decline to comment further.

Clue: Ohms law

Sounds like you need the "cheap shot" moniker..  

OK then?  What resistor makes 12 v into 5v?

That's easy a Thevenin equivalent circuit..  Say you got 14 volts at the battery. Then a 900 ohm and 500 ohm series resistor network (900 to 14V, 500 to GND) will give you 5 volts out..

Not sure why you need any resistor on the LGN/GY wire as it does not go to the 04 up DTT module. I suspect that pulling it high might keep the TSSM from tossing a code. Since it is from module to module, don't know if it needs to be 5 volts.

Max

[ederdelyi]

Sometimes there is no way to avoid pissing someone off or avoid a conflict ... I was actually trying to be nice about the whole thing. Also hoping to avoid potential damage to the poster's electronics. If that makes me an A$$hole in your opinion ... Oh, well. Reading this stuff is optional as well as answering it.

[ederdelyi]

>>Sounds like you need the "cheap shot" moniker... <<

Ya think?

Ed

aka "Mr. Insider A$$hole Cheap Shot" YIPPEE, success at last! 

[uwiik]

  I wanna learn and fix my problem here... Not fight over the internet.

So any conclusion? Should I or shouldn't I supply the LGN/GY BAS sensor cable with 5V DC??

[ederdelyi]

IMO, no. Suggestion: You may want to contact Wire Plus and DTT.

Ed

aka "Mr. IACS"

[11.7to1]

How about getting the correct module instead of hacking up your wires. Wow.

Edit: Future thread, "Bike won't start"

[Reddog74usa]

I just looked it up on the schematic and grounded the wire that goes from the module to the bas. Worked great with no resisters needed. This was in a TC in an FXR project.

[Ridetard]

This oughta be good :>)

Im with you on this one.