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Baker DD6 builders kit

Started by eagles350, February 04, 2010, 09:25:08 AM

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eagles350

I broke the $400 shift spring in my tranny recently. Since I have to tear it all down anyway, I'm thinking of installing the Baker unit to bring down the RPMs.
Has anyone installed this on their bike ? If so how do you like it.  I'm thinking it might be better than going for an overdrive trans.

Thanks, John

gryphon

I've also given the DD6's some very serious consideration. Playing with drive ratios on the computer it seems to give  me the changes I'm looking for without the stupid way overgeared 6th found in OD tranny's. I do have a chain drive so there is a lot of room to tweak the final drive ratio. I just wish they weren't so damn expensive though. I have almost bit the bullet a couple of times but then have backed off when I consider what else that same amount of cash can accomplish.

HogMike

Quote from: eagles350 on February 04, 2010, 09:25:08 AM
I broke the $400 shift spring in my tranny recently. Since I have to tear it all down anyway, I'm thinking of installing the Baker unit to bring down the RPMs.
Has anyone installed this on their bike ? If so how do you like it.  I'm thinking it might be better than going for an overdrive trans.

Thanks, John

Stock engine?
You will have a hard time pulling 6th with a stock '92 IMO.
:smiled:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

eagles350

#3
Not quite stock. Basically a homemade Mikuni PAT kit with Nightrider carb mods.  I live pretty much out in the sticks, so it's 60 mph as soon as I'm out the driveway.  Get on the interstate & it's 75+.  It just begs for another gear.

the thing I liked about the Baker kit is it seems like a better engineered approach than just throwing another gear at it. Wish it was cheaper, but I like to think I'm doing my part to help the economy. It takes out some of the sting :soda:

Buddy WMC

I installed a complete DD6 in my 93 FXR and absolutely love it. Developed a problem at about 500 miles that was related to a bad coutershaft bearing bore. Had to ship the trans back to Baker for a warranty repair. Baker replaced the case and all the bearings and paid the shipping both ways, They have a great warranty. Other than the downtime and having to do R&R twice nothing to complain about.

I chose to purchase a complete assembled unit instead of the builders kit. That way, if there was a problem it could not be blamed on my doing the assembly. I also sold my original 5 speed to recoup some of the expense. If you know how to R&R the trans, have the tools to pull the trap door and main drive gear out of your case, it should be a sraight forward job. The instructions are very complete and I've never had a problem speaking to a tech rep.

tinkerman

Guys,

Are there any plug in tranny options from Baker for my 88 Heritage with regard to getting another gear in it for highway running?

tink
Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

deathwish

You might consider a 33 t pulley as an option with a 5 speed. Often a 34 is reccommended but I have found it to tall unless you have a huge amount of super slab to run. 1 tooth moves you 250 rpm which is about 5 mph. On a low rev HD that is a bunch. I run 32/70 on my bike and it runs 81 mph at 3100 which is safe for all day. I do run a 180/55/18 which changes the gearing just a touch being just slightly larger in overall dia. 25/36-32/70. On my shaker softail I run 3.06 final but have a 124 pulling that.

tinkerman

I have been running that idea around in my head as well deathwish.
Would the 33 require a belt change?

No problem if it did as I would likely put a new belt on in there while I had it apart anyway and keep the old one for a spare. (Only about 76000 km, 48000 miles on the existing belt)
Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

deathwish

lots of adjustment room. No belt change needed for a 33 or 34.

Dan89flstc

Quote from: tinkerman on February 05, 2010, 08:20:15 AM
Guys,

Are there any plug in tranny options from Baker for my 88 Heritage with regard to getting another gear in it for highway running?

tink
Tink, the 6 speed will plug in to your `88 case no problem, but you will need to change the clutch, because your `88 has a clutch that fits onto a tapered shaft. A `90-`93 clutch will keep your primary ratios and starter drive gear ratios the same as you have now.
US Navy Veteran 1974-1979 (AD2) A&P Mechanic
1989 FLSTC, 2019 FLHT, 2022 FLHTCUTG

tinkerman

Thanks Dan,

I have read a bit about that option....I thought I might have had to do a little machining on the inside of the tranny case but from what your saying the gearset should slide right in.....correct?

As well do you feel that for highway running my old 80 inch will handle 6th gear....nothing special done to the bike...EV27 cam, Super E carb, pipes opened just a little and a Dyna ignition...single fire for whatever it is worth.

Appreciate any more input you might have.

tink
Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

Dan89flstc

#11
Quote from: tinkerman on February 07, 2010, 06:56:00 AM
Thanks Dan,

I have read a bit about that option....I thought I might have had to do a little machining on the inside of the tranny case but from what your saying the gearset should slide right in.....correct?

As well do you feel that for highway running my old 80 inch will handle 6th gear....nothing special done to the bike...EV27 cam, Super E carb, pipes opened just a little and a Dyna ignition...single fire for whatever it is worth.

Appreciate any more input you might have.

tink
Some 6 speed sets require grinding the tranny case, but I think the Baker set is a drop in.

I`m currently running a 5 speed in my `89 Heritage, the gearset is from a `99 bagger. Changed the clutch to a `90-`93 unit so that it would mate up to the splined mainshaft. I don`t think I would want to pull a taller gear with my bike, 80 inch ev27 Mikuni 40.

eagles 350:
I think too many guys think our engines should be running at idle RPM at cruise speed. Low RPM beats the hell out of the bottom end of the engine. I hear guys ride by all the time at about 40 MPH, engine running so slow you could count the revs...They must carry a spare crank in their saddlebags. :soda:
US Navy Veteran 1974-1979 (AD2) A&P Mechanic
1989 FLSTC, 2019 FLHT, 2022 FLHTCUTG

tinkerman

Thanks again for the reply,

I understand the idea of not running any machine in a "lugging" state as being better for the machine....I would just like to knock 3 -400 revs off the top end when I am on a highway running at speed. The old 88 Heritage gets better everytime I mess with something but running her hard all day is a tiring experience and running her hard for two weeks straight is a tough run. You toughen up to it after 3 -4 days in the saddle but I am approaching the point in life where I am more interested in the bike accomodating me than me accomodating the bike.

Been gonna get a new long distance bike for the past couple of years but there is always some excuse to put it off....working to much....or worried about not working cause the economy took a dump. Guess I'll have to do some more pondering on the situation.

Thanks agian for the info,


tink
Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

Buddy WMC

Quote from: tinkerman on February 08, 2010, 02:12:03 PM
Thanks again for the reply,

I understand the idea of not running any machine in a "lugging" state as being better for the machine....I would just like to knock 3 -400 revs off the top end when I am on a highway running at speed. The old 88 Heritage gets better everytime I mess with something but running her hard all day is a tiring experience and running her hard for two weeks straight is a tough run. You toughen up to it after 3 -4 days in the saddle but I am approaching the point in life where I am more interested in the bike accomodating me than me accomodating the bike.

Been gonna get a new long distance bike for the past couple of years but there is always some excuse to put it off....working to much....or worried about not working cause the economy took a dump. Guess I'll have to do some more pondering on the situation.

Thanks agian for the info,


tink

About 2900rpm or so, at 85 mph with my DD6. 32T trans pulley and a 70T rear pulley, with the 26T engine sprocket and two pin longer primary chain Baker supplies, Using my stock clutch basket that I think is a 37T, if that helps or gives you some ideas. My engine is not stock (85") and has plenty of power to get the job done. Did 120 in third once before hitting the rev limiter that is set at 6K.

tinkerman

Thanks for the input Buddy.....what is the basic year model of your bike.

tink
Living on a rock out in the North Atlantic, HTT member since 8/1/2003

Buddy WMC

Quote from: tinkerman on February 09, 2010, 12:49:13 PM
Thanks for the input Buddy.....what is the basic year model of your bike.

tink

Tink, It's a 1993 FXLR and was totally rebuilt from December thru April of last year. The frame, engine lower end, wiring harness and headlight bucket were the only parts not replaced or refinished.

PosseRider

I installed the Baker DD6 in my TC 60,000 miles ago & have never looked back. They did advise me against the overdrive,but I forget why. Call them ,they are very helpful & won't steer ya wrong.
PosseRider
Vandalia,Ohio

eagles350

Thanks for all the input. I decided to go ahead & order it. I should have it in by next weekend & I'll let you know how I make out.

Buddy WMC

 :up:, Did you order the whole trans, or the builders kit? Get rid of that mainshaft bearing race while you are at it and install the Baker bearing in the inner primary.

eagles350

I bought the builders kit. They wanted another grand for the assembled one. I already had the baker bearing from when I resealed the primary last year. I didn't install it then because I didn't have the tool to remove the race.

eagles350

I'm all done with the tranny install & I'm pretty happy with the results. i went on a 100 mile trip to the swap meet in Charlotte yesterday & It performed great on the interstate & the back roads. The vibration is greatly reduced at 80 mph & I can still beat a stock Twinky in an impromptu speed trial due to the near stock lower gear ratios.

On the negative side of the install I was a little disappointed with Baker on a couple of things. The large mainshaft seal provided in the kit was the wrong size for the pulley spacer. unfortunately I found this out after I had the primary back together & filled the tranny with very expensive oil. The spreading red puddle under the bike told me something was amiss. after dumping 30 bucks in oils, taking apart the primary, finding the right seal on a Sunday, & waiting another day for the right tranny oil, I called Baker & got nothing but a sorry from them & not a very sincere one at that. Also had no directions for converting the 1 post neutral switch on my bike to the 2 post provided with the kit. I just needed to ground one side of the switch but how hard would that have been to put in the directions. Small stuff for sure, but pretty lame for a $2500 kit.

Buddy WMC

Maybe whomever you talked to at Baker was having a bad day. Thought I had a main drive gear or quad seal oil leak after 432 miles on a new DD6 complete transmission. I also use the Hi-Torque bearing and seal in my inner. Spoke with JT at Baker and they immediately shipped all the new parts at no charge.

Pulled off the inner and discovered that the oil was really coming from the countershaft bearing. Baker sent a call tag to have the transmission returned to them at no charge for inspection. Turned out to be an out of round bearing hole in the case. Baker replaced the case, installed new bearings and shipped the transmission back at no charge.

I agree that having to do the labor twice and deal with the downtime sucked. I'm also curious as to how the original case made it through QC. I offered to send the  seals shipped prior to the teardown back to Baker, they told me just to keep them.
Sorry that you had a bad experience, but they do have a great warranty and stand behind the products they sell. I also agree about the neutral switch wiring, I called a tech when doing the initial installation to find out about that. I ordered the two plugs with wiring from HD, Installed one through the harness while removing the old single pin and grounded the other to the trans case. Looks just like factory and no splices.