Sealed batteries -- only HD or other brands ?

[Topend]

I ordered a ETX30L for my Road King a couple days ago for $100 and some change to replace my battery with a melted post (non HD). I was going to order an OEM battery online so not to have to deal with the spacers but each HD dealer website I was on did not offer the battery online. No local HD dealer offers any discount on parts unless I drive 40 to 60 miles. I seemed to have a hard time with my last battery with the cables getting loose and I think that is why my post melted. Any ideas from anyone on keeping the cables tight other than checking them regular ?

[Ed Y]

Underneath the head of the screw/bolt on the HD and Deka batteries, there is notches or teeth designed to keep the screw from backing out. Definitely does help but it's in your best interest to check them regularly. A toothed washer under the screw will also help.

[Rags722]

Rags the only problem I have with the "non oem" is the spacers
those suckers have the same magnetic attraction to the most
remote part of you bike as the brass ferrules in the throttle do,
Meaning you will drop one, and it will always be the one
you are doing to finish the job, and have to undo everything else...

I hear you, and if the price between the dealer and Deka was only $5 or $10 I'd probably just pop for the few extra bucks.  When we start talking $50 or so difference, well I can take the time to be careful for that money.

[truck]

You could also make studs for the terminals like I did, and just let the stud hold the spacer.

[hotroadking]

I agree, I have on in my heritage, works great, and when the RG needs one it will be a Deka/East Penn

Dang it Truck there you go bringing in common sense and logic to a tech question...! 

[Topend]

You could also make studs for the terminals like I did, and just let the stud hold the spacer.
[/quote
Truck, got any pictures of the studs I could see?

[L-]

Truck,

I did that after you mentioned it and it works good.

L-

[mark61]

Those "studs" would be nothing more than couple pieces of all-thread or even long bolts sawed off. Run threaded rod into battery. Run nut(s) against post to space out for cable fit clearance. Cable end and then 1 more locking nut to keep cable tight.

mark61

[truck]

I don't have a picture but like Mark said, I sawed the heads off of some metric bolts.
You can't get a nut up against the terminal, you need the spacer against the terminal. The spacer is 1/8" thick x 1/2" diameter and the flat removes 3/32" from the diameter and leaves a 1/32" wall. No clearance to spin a nut.

[Topend]

Thanks