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Bagger follows cracks....

Started by tireater, December 08, 2008, 03:33:03 PM

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sandrooney

Patience is such a waste of time .

sundog1258

The elite 3's stopped my crack problem.
Now if I could just kick the booze.
Phil

FLTRI

Quote from: smoserx1 on December 09, 2008, 03:58:11 AM
I agree with everyone else about the tires, but on my bike the rear seems to make the most difference when worn out.  As the stock rear Dunlop wears, the profile goes from very rounded to fairly flat, almost like a car tire.  A new rear tire will get rid of the crack following for several thousand miles, but then it starts coming back as the replacement tire wears.  The front tire seems to retain the rounded profile even when very worn.
This is and always has been an issue with all tires for all makes of heavy touring bikes. This is also why some tire mfgs (Dunlop included) now put a harder compound in the middle of some touring tires. HD has that in the 09 rear tire. Time will tell the longevity story though.

FACT: Any bike will gain instability as tires get worn out (front) and/or "square" (rear).

Let's face it folks, if the bike no longer feels stable AND there is nothing broken or loose, new tires will cure the problem 99% of the time. Please do yourself a favor and replace the tires, even if there is tread left, before buying add-ons that claim to "correct" design flaws perceived from instability.
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

FLTRI

Note on Metzlers:
They require more pressure than Dunlops (5-10lbs depending on 16" or 18") because they have softer sidewalls so they will squirm @ below 45lbs, whereas Dunlops work fine @ 40lbs.
If you are using 18" Metzlers they need 50lbs or they will, if ridden for long duration on hot days, overheat and cause failures that include delamination that ends up spitting chunks of rubber off the tire and/or cause bubbling in the interior as SHOstreetglide experienced.
There are bulletins from Metzler addressing this issue.

Suggestion for proper tire pressure: Look at the max pressure (cold) on the sidewall of any tire and use that pressure when the tire is cold and you can't go wrong, regardless of mfg printed recommendations that are highly influenced by liability attorneys.
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Bakon

Mine were 18 by 140 on PM rims on an 01 Ultra. I kept them up at 50 and checked them before I went on the Iron Butt ride. I think that even at 50 they overheated from the long ride. I dont know if I ran over something, but the bubbles were obviously a heat thing. Now I have the SG and hate that ugly rim on the front. 18 look good but I know the hassle of touring and finding that off size tire. Sure there is one waiting in Sturgis, but 1500 miles each way and one flat can throw the trip off one to two days with good shipping to a dealer to put it on. Nobody stocks them.

I also dont know if they were Brazil or German, this was in 2004.
wasting time

FLTRI

Maybe you simply got one of the many defective tires if you always maintained 50 lbs. That does happen from time to time. I do know there were quite a few defective Metzlers when they first started coming from Brazil, but I don't remember when that was.
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

hdpegscraper

So are the newer Metzelers back up in quality, or do they still have issues? Just got some Pirellie Sport Demons for the Dyna, and interestingly enuf, they say made in Brazil also. Kinda got me thinkin bout quality issues.

Deye76

Quote from: hdpegscraper on December 10, 2008, 03:50:11 AM
So are the newer Metzelers back up in quality, or do they still have issues? Just got some Pirellie Sport Demons for the Dyna, and interestingly enuf, they say made in Brazil also. Kinda got me thinkin bout quality issues.

Pirelli owns Metzler. Likely both made in the same plant.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

hdpegscraper

Looks like the dirty bastards tricked me, I was tryin to get away from them. Oh well tread pattern is different so Ill see how that works come spring.

DGlide04

My 2004 had new stock Dunlops put on it before I bought it this summer and they track like a slot car in deep grooves in the pavement.   As soon as they're worn out, they'll be replaced with a set of E3's, no more stockers for me.

mac10-45

Replaced my Dunflops that followed cracks with Michelin's front & rear. Explained the problem with following cracks to service mgr., had tech check neck bearing, it was loose. They tightened it and with new tires it rides better than when new.
mac

04glide

I have been through many tires and when they start wearing out the bike handles like crap. I will tolerate it for a while before I change them out. I always mount new tires before a trip just so I have a nice ride. I hate long trips on crappy tires..

FLTRI

Quote from: 04glide on December 10, 2008, 07:42:07 PM
I have been through many tires and when they start wearing out the bike handles like crap. I will tolerate it for a while before I change them out. I always mount new tires before a trip just so I have a nice ride. I hate long trips on crappy tires..

IMO that is the best program yet. Worn (square) rears with old fronts is not a nice ride. I find the combo of metzler front (no rut following and feathering) with the dunlop rear makes my bike fell better than any other set.
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Deye76

Quote from: FLTRI on December 10, 2008, 08:39:28 PM
Quote from: 04glide on December 10, 2008, 07:42:07 PM
I have been through many tires and when they start wearing out the bike handles like crap. I will tolerate it for a while before I change them out. I always mount new tires before a trip just so I have a nice ride. I hate long trips on crappy tires..

IMO that is the best program yet. Worn (square) rears with old fronts is not a nice ride. I find the combo of metzler front (no rut following and feathering) with the dunlop rear makes my bike fell better than any other set.

Yea I cringe when guys tell me they change fronts 1 to every 2 rear, because they (front) "still look good".
I use a tread gauge, and usually the front has less tread depth than the rear, even though it looks better. When I change tires it's done in sets.
East Tenn.<br /> 2020 Lowrider S Touring, 2014 CVO RK,  1992 FXRP

Bakon

I always get two rears to one front.
wasting time

FLTRI

Quote from: SHOStreetglide on December 12, 2008, 03:30:51 AM
I always get two rears to one front.
This is one of the two reasons I like the metzler front and dunlop rear combo, they wear at closer rates, not quite 1:1, but I change both at the same time with 1or2 32nds more left on the front. Replacing just the rear always feels better but not as good as replacing both. :smilep:
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Clintster

I usually try to replace both at the same time.  Somebody in the neighborhood can usually put a half worn 16" to use.  Free or near free and I get the peice of mind and handling a fresh set ot skins provide.
Drive fast, take chances

Sonny S.

From the link below :

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tires.html


For example, if the front tire has grooves that go around the very center of the tire for it's entire circumference (center line groove/grooves), then the tire's center-line groove's sea area will have a tendency to track concrete that has ridges running in the same direction as traffic, or the metal grating on open-grated bridges (like some draw bridges) -- and can induce a very severe front end wobble as a result, which is disconcerting to say the least. To avoid this, many manufacturers redesigned the center line to go back and forth across the tire slightly (an oscillating center line design), while others avoid a centerline groove all together.
   It may be noted that outside of North America, I've never run into a piece of road work with concrete ridges running in the same direction as traffic, so it may not be a design concern in much of the rest of the world. On the other hand, centerline grooves provide a benefit when riding in heavy rains, slush and slurry, as they help maintain road contact. It's a trade-off, depending on where you live and what kinds of roads you tend to face. In the USA, I personally avoid tires with a straight centerline groove at all costs because of the tracking issue.

purplepeopleeater

Quote from: Sonny S. on December 09, 2008, 02:34:31 AM
Anyone having this problem with Dunlop E3's  ?
I'm not, but I when I changed from the factory Dunlops to the Dunlop E3's it seemed like I bought a new bike when it comes to handling. Got the best deals for the 3's from Ron Ayers

FLTRI

Quote from: purplepeopleeater on December 23, 2008, 03:53:13 PM
Quote from: Sonny S. on December 09, 2008, 02:34:31 AM
Anyone having this problem with Dunlop E3's  ?
I'm not, but I when I changed from the factory Dunlops to the Dunlop E3's it seemed like I bought a new bike when it comes to handling. Got the best deals for the 3's from Ron Ayers

Just for clarification, did you replace new factory Dunlops with new Dunlop E3s? Or did you replace worn factory Dunlops with new Dunlop E3s?
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

SCREAMN EAGLE

Mine looks for cracks 130 lbs. max

FLTRI

Quote from: SCREAMN EAGLE on December 24, 2008, 03:57:18 PM
Mine looks for cracks 130 lbs. max
I would think it would be looking a ditch with that kinda pressure.  :dgust: :wtf:
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Sonny S.

Quote from: FLTRI on December 24, 2008, 04:22:13 PM
Quote from: SCREAMN EAGLE on December 24, 2008, 03:57:18 PM
Mine looks for cracks 130 lbs. max
I would think it would be looking a ditch with that kinda pressure.  :dgust: :wtf:

Split tail  :wink: