SE Compensator ?

[timtoolman]

I think your maybe right Rbabos  about the formula + vs red line , even though i had very minor fretting 2-3 thin red lines on the hub  I did put in formula  +  in this time .

[ultrat]

Pulled primary s/e comp installed 15k ago run foumula + smoothing/fretting of ramps no rust seen did not dissemble..5 k on fluid.

[BUBBIE]

 Topic: se compensator  (Read 12 times)
hodshire
Member
Posts: 3
 

se compensator
« on: Today at 02:17:59 PM »
Quote
I was told that all 2011 touring bikes come stock with the se compensator. Can anyone confirm this? I am having an issue with my 2011 ultra classic and I suspect the compensator. Its been back to the dealer, at 90 miles and goes back Sunday at 468 miles for making noise in the primary that sounds like a tin can of marbles being shaking.   

**********************
Where Have I see this type of question before?

signed....BUBBIE

[d1hojo07]

Sure. I converted mine to a manual adjuster minus the bias spring, just like the good old days.
Ron

How?

If you do it retain the springs on the block. While I've tested both ways retaining the springs makes it a more user friendly setup.
Adjust ratchet for 5/8" total slack including bottoming the shoe springs, cold and the tightest spot. This somewhat slightly preloads the shoe so the chain is under some tension, even cold. This aids in keeping those  pos 07 and up primarys quieter, most likely due to some echo chamber effect from how these tensioners are mounted. Best done after the chain is broken in. Then adjustment will last a really long time or miles.
Running a 49 tooth evo sprocket requires moving the block a bit higher than stock. This required some materal on the outer cover inside at one of the bolt bosses on my softail. About 1/8" flat spot with a blending disc and hand grinder. Not sure if there's a clearance issue or not with baggers. A quick look over  will let you know if there is conflict between the lug or not.
Ron

rbabos, di you drill and slot that?

[d1hojo07]

Just a little update. About 6K on this one. Formula plus only.

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[rbabos]

Sure. I converted mine to a manual adjuster minus the bias spring, just like the good old days.
Ron

How?

If you do it retain the springs on the block. While I've tested both ways retaining the springs makes it a more user friendly setup.
Adjust ratchet for 5/8" total slack including bottoming the shoe springs, cold and the tightest spot. This somewhat slightly preloads the shoe so the chain is under some tension, even cold. This aids in keeping those  pos 07 and up primarys quieter, most likely due to some echo chamber effect from how these tensioners are mounted. Best done after the chain is broken in. Then adjustment will last a really long time or miles.
Running a 49 tooth evo sprocket requires moving the block a bit higher than stock. This required some materal on the outer cover inside at one of the bolt bosses on my softail. About 1/8" flat spot with a blending disc and hand grinder. Not sure if there's a clearance issue or not with baggers. A quick look over  will let you know if there is conflict between the lug or not.
Ron

rbabos, di you drill and slot that?

Block can be drilled and tapped. The base has to be either plasma or edm. Extremely hard steel.
Ron

[rbabos]

Just a little update. About 6K on this one. Formula plus only.

Damn. Not looking too good. I don't understand why some do this and others won't. Recently had a peek at mine at 4k and other than a couple of red lines looked decent. That was after all the vtuning abuse I gave it. I'm stuck for an answer. Lonewolf posted a pic recently running RoyalPurple ATF and it still looked good. I wonder if the material has changed along the production time or something?
Ron

[shortride]

I kept complaining about the large bang on start up on my '09 Ultra Classic but I could get the compensator replaced under warranty. I did a couple months ago have a new SE compensator installed and what a difference there is.

[pappy42]

OK, this old codger has his flame suit; so light her boys.

On my 05 RK Custom do I need a replacement compensator?  If so, what do I replace it with?

[saddle tramp]

your 05 comp. is completely different, and those old style seem to hold up well. Don't think you have a thing to worry about.

OK, this old codger has his flame suit; so light her boys.

On my 05 RK Custom do I need a replacement compensator?  If so, what do I replace it with?

[pappy42]

your 05 comp. is completely different, and those old style seem to hold up well. Don't think you have a thing to worry about.

PigFixer, I appreciate your reply; thanks.

OK, this old codger has his flame suit; so light her boys.

On my 05 RK Custom do I need a replacement compensator?  If so, what do I replace it with?

[HogBag]

 For geezer glide sport to check the grooves on the comp

[wurk_truk]

I know it may be around here somewhere...  but does anybody have a parts breakdown on the stock 2012 compensator?  Including the rotor?

I'm going to need a new comp shortly, and instead of the SE, I would be willing to try whatever it is they run stock now.

[HD/Wrench]

Funny I shimmed my stock 09 unit up and it is holding up without issue, 556 + pulls on my dyno mule, hole shots, you name it,  no issues with clang or bang on start up either.. I will be keeping my stock set up, wish you guys well on the SE unit or the new stock units. Which by the way look like azz in a short time, not much better than the old SE version.

[HarleyFranco]

wurk_truk,

I believe they are using the newer design screamin eagle comp on the new models.

Frank

[lonerider2]

The new SE comp# is 40274-08A

[rbabos]

The new SE comp# is 40274-08A

This is the latest version both truc and I are using but the actual 2012 is built a bit differently. Part numbers seem to be non existant at this point. Dealer couldn't even track one down, but eventually it will be listed. Still a piece of crap from the exploded view I saw once.
Ron
83935-09A, is the replacement parts for the -08A version we have now.

[rbabos]

Funny I shimmed my stock 09 unit up and it is holding up without issue, 556 + pulls on my dyno mule, hole shots, you name it,  no issues with clang or bang on start up either.. I will be keeping my stock set up, wish you guys well on the SE unit or the new stock units. Which by the way look like azz in a short time, not much better than the old SE version.

Back when I got my softail 07FXSTC it chattered like a bastard in fifth gear when hot. Eventually I clued into a comp issue as part of the cause. Shimmy the pack at the expense of losing rotation in the unit took most of the clacking out but not all of it. I'm sorta stuck with these SE versions for no other reason than to quiet the trans, which it does well. Necessary crap, if you will.
Ron

[rob71458]

Steve, Is your 09 comp. the same as the stock one I took out of my 07 110? If so, how did you shim it?  Ron, Are you running the IDS?

[rbabos]

Steve, Is your 09 comp. the same as the stock one I took out of my 07 110? If so, how did you shim it?  Ron, Are you running the IDS?

No ids available for softails and dynas that's why sole reliance on the right cushioning effect plays such a role on how the shafts rebound in the crunch drive 6 speed to eliminate noise. I'm sure this was more "Potty mouth" luck on MoCos part since the ids was developed for trans clatter and the SE comp came out to reduce crank shifting problems.
Ron

[HD/Wrench]

Ron is correct it does limit travel and mine has the cush drive. I ran a .028 shim if I recall...been over a year since I did that mod. If I thought I could get a SE comp to last I would but I am putting 20K plus a year on my bike I do not need issues on my trips.

Ron just needs to design a new unit all together and put it out to market.. maybe HD will pick up it from you.. LOL that would be cool 

After trying the grooves we thought that was a fix but it just does the same thing the next time you check it, we have tried the  formula plus, Red line torco bely ray golden spectro Royal purple etc... I have several customers with them and I have been checking them on the 5 k service. Nothing seems to really make them live. I had hopes the new set up was going to be the ticket but seeing the same thing on the 2011 bikes. I have a customer that is getting a 2012 so I think I will take a peek at it once he gets his 1000 miles on it and it comes in for service.  As the 12 unit is to be fixed from the 11 unit?? I guess time will tell

[wurk_truk]

The new SE comp# is 40274-08A

I already threw one of those in the trash.  It was a POS!  And now I'm POed, because I threw the rotor in the trash along with the comp.

So...  I'm going to give the 2012 comp a try and see what happens.

Steve, if you get some time, could you explain shimming a stock comp in more detail?

I'm thinking the 11s had the SE unit and the 12s have the new unit.  Next time at the dealer...  I will look up this stuff.  The newest parts manual I have is for a 2010.

If I thought I could get a SE comp to last I would but I am putting 20K plus a year on my bike I do not need issues on my trips.   EXACTLY!!!

[HogBag]

My 07 comp has never had a problem even after 100/100 for the last 2 years, I don't flog this bike to hard because of the plastic crank. I do ride it hard bouncing it of the limiter when ever I get the chance. The only time I ever hear the comp working is on hot soak starts or when on loaded hill starts when it go's to stall ? My 07 has no clunks, no 5 gear wine and never missed a beat. I must have got a good one

[Admiral Akbar]

Ron is correct it does limit travel and mine has the cush drive. I ran a .028 shim if I recall...been over a year since I did that mod. If I thought I could get a SE comp to last I would but I am putting 20K plus a year on my bike I do not need issues on my trips.

Kool,

Another 3 dollar fix.. Of course if there is someone who want to spend 200, there is someone that will to take the money.. Kind of like bagger wobble stuff.. 

You need to figure out the shim size and add it to your "kits"..

Max

[HD/Wrench]

The new SE comp# is 40274-08A

I already threw one of those in the trash.  It was a POS!  And now I'm POed, because I threw the rotor in the trash along with the comp.

So...  I'm going to give the 2012 comp a try and see what happens.

Steve, if you get some time, could you explain shimming a stock comp in more detail?

I'm thinking the 11s had the SE unit and the 12s have the new unit.  Next time at the dealer...  I will look up this stuff.  The newest parts manual I have is for a 2010.

If I thought I could get a SE comp to last I would but I am putting 20K plus a year on my bike I do not need issues on my trips.   EXACTLY!!!

Well one thing that Ron and I spoke about was the amount of travel they have. So if you take a tq wrench you can bottom them out very easy. SO if they get to the limit of travel the idea is nothing more than stopping them from banging back and forth so easy. Add a shim to the stock shim pack. It will increase preload, but since there is very little room you are going to limit the travel. But again if you look at how far it is moving you can see they go from one  side of the stop to the other side.

So if you have a cush drive no reason you cannot go back to the old style and add a shim . The dyna guys and softail well not much for that unless you where to maybe get a after market wheel and convert it to a cush drive. That would be some fab work not going tobe a bolt on deal there.