T-MAX question

[GLIDERIDER-06]

Simple question. Can I make timing adjustments on the T-MAX without loading a new map? Is it possible to just make a value change with it linked to a computer and the green link light is lit. To me, it seems that if I make an adjustment on the map, then send a new map to the T-MAX, it erases all of the learned offsets and prior adjustments, thus taking longer for the optimal learned offsets to be learned.
Thanks! GR-06

[x52gnr]

yes you can make live adjustments to timing, afr etc while linked without downloading a new map. Visit the AFR and Tuning section of this forum for lots of good Thundermax advice and tips......

[rbabos]

Simple question. Can I make timing adjustments on the T-MAX without loading a new map? Is it possible to just make a value change with it linked to a computer and the green link light is lit. To me, it seems that if I make an adjustment on the map, then send a new map to the T-MAX, it erases all of the learned offsets and prior adjustments, thus taking longer for the optimal learned offsets to be learned.
Thanks! GR-06

Are you saving the new map prior to sending it, otherwise it will send the canned mpa basically. Failing that, save the changes and send it as an attachment via email.
Ron

[GLIDERIDER-06]

Yes, I have been saving the changes. I thought there was an easier way to do it than what I was doing. Thanks!

[7hogs]

yes you can make live adjustments to timing, afr etc while linked without downloading a new map. Visit the AFR and Tuning section of this forum for lots of good Thundermax advice and tips......

Link it, Make the adjustments, save it then unlink it.

[Admiral Akbar]

The software has some stuff built in to it that wants to sync the map you have loaded into smart link and the one in the ECM.. You can override this if you now for sure the map you have is the same as what is loaded.. I typically read the map and learned offsets and save.. as this will get you back to where you started if you screw up. It's not necessary,, Any way after the link is established.. You can change things,, Heck you don't need to write em back and they can be changed on the fly while the motor is running.. Makes it nice when tuning on the dyno.. You can change timing between pulls and once done just save the file as a reference.. The important thing is to not let the SW let you clear any of the learned offsets..   Once you have the AFR settings where you want you it only take a about 9 to 12 pulls to get the timing optimized..  I've got a dyno guy that lets me mess with the parameters while he does the pulls.. He tells me were I picked up tq and where it got worse.. Takes only less then an hour to tune the bike for WOT.. The rest you can do by riding it..

Max

[Dennis The Menace]

As noted, if the Tmax is connected to the bike live, and you make a change, it WILL change that parameter instantly on the ECM.  I found that out the hard way.  If you want to just play with the map, do it without connection to the bike.  But as long as its connected (green), it makes the change immediately.

menace

[GLIDERIDER-06]

What is the normal range for WOT A/F ratio. mine is about 12.5. should it be closer to 13?

[Admiral Akbar]

This may sound stupid but if running a stock squish, I'd leave it at 12.5.. Tighten it up and or grooves set it to 13..  My tmax sets things about 1/2 point leaner when compared to a dyno sniffer..

Max

[Paniolo]

My tmax sets things about 1/2 point leaner when compared to a dyno sniffer..

Max,

I'm thinking I may need to lean mine out too (although as good as it is running you'd think I'd know better by now). I get a faint whiff of gas at idle and below 2000 rpms. I'm thinking of raising the tuning boxes one point in all the rpm settings in this area to get ride of the smell, however I'm not sure if that is what is needed.

What do you guys think?

[Admiral Akbar]

If you are smelling raw gas, I'd look for a leak..  Max

[Paniolo]

If you are smelling raw gas, I'd look for a leak..  Max

Actually Max I just fixed the leak. The check valve on the tank was leaking so I replaced it and the whole hose that runs inside the tank. This isn't so much raw gas, but smelling rich.

[Admiral Akbar]

Still got the evaporative canister? Max

[Paniolo]

Still got the evaporative canister? Max

If you're talking about that round can thing that's sometimes found between the down tubes or near the bottom of the frame no. In fact in all the years I've had the bike I can't remember one being on it at all. Maybe it was removed when the stage one was done back in 2001, or maybe the 2001 Ultra didn't come with one.

So I leaned it out one increment in the 2000 and below rpm range and went for a ride,....on one of the hottest days of the year. It was 110 and I got stuck on the freeway in traffic. I was crawling along thinking traffic would clear up soon, but it didn't. When I finally saw the LA County Coroners van sneaking it's way through traffic with it's flashing lights on I knew there was a fatal accident up ahead. By the time I got off the freeway the engine oil temp gauge was pegged at 300, the bike was running funny and smoking from the right side.

I pulled into a shopping center to see what was smoking. The intense heat caused the rubber hose for the head breather bolt fitting to soften up and slip off. The bike was venting hot oil mist right out of the heads. So I slipped the hose back on and secured it with a zip tie.

I hit the starter button and the bike cranks but won't start. I let it cool for a few more mins and still it won't start. I reinitialize the Zippers ECM with the off/on switch and still it won't start. I pull the rear plug wire and hook it up to a spare plug. There is spark. I change the plug out. I do the same to the front plug wire and there is spark. In fact, while cranking the bike starts and runs rough on one cylinder. I change out the front plug. I crank and crank and the bike finally comes to life. It's running and idling rough but I take off for home. On the way home I get some detonation with throttle roll on in the heat. When I get home to the cooler beach climate the bike is running great.

My question is,....was the hard starting from the overheated engine, my little MAP adjustment, changing out the plugs (I put in used ones) or something else?

Mark

[Admiral Akbar]

Not sure what your issue is but I drove through Valley Center and I bet it was over about 114. I can tell cuz fingers felt like on fire.. Buds ultra said a little over 110.. Didn't get stuck in traffic though.. Motor didn't skip a beat..or ping for that matter.. I took it pretty easy though and we were able to keep moving.. . 10.8 to 1 CR, Tmax, did not use compression releases once all day..

Do a compression check first..  Fuel next.. You can connect to the tmax and look for errors in the diagnostic page..

Max

[Paniolo]

Not sure what your issue is but I drove through Valley Center and I bet it was over about 114. I can tell cuz fingers felt like on fire.. Buds ultra said a little over 110.. Didn't get stuck in traffic though.. Motor didn't skip a beat..or ping for that matter.. I took it pretty easy though and we were able to keep moving.. . 10.8 to 1 CR, Tmax, did not use compression releases once all day..

Do a compression check first..  Fuel next.. You can connect to the tmax and look for errors in the diagnostic page..

Max

Okay I checked the diagnostic page and I found Historic Faults for:

Bettery Low
Sensor Power Low
Sensor Power High
Crank Sensor
Vehicle Speed.

I can agree with battery low as I have run it down a couple of times. I am not sure what Sensor Power Low/High is. I can agree with vehicle speed as the whole system when out of whack when there was a break in the VSS wiring. Not sure about Crank Sensor.

I cleared the codes and will ride it some more. The bike starts and runs fine now.

Could any of those have caused my problem?

Mark

[Admiral Akbar]

Maybe your battery is going bad??

Max

[Paniolo]

Maybe your battery is going bad??

Max

I don't think so. Last August I took it to an independant battery shop where I bought the last two batteries for my police training bikes. I brought along an older battery as well and had both tested. The guy said the one in the bike was at over 100% and exceeded the cold cranking amp rating. The older one was at 90%.  I told him I had a trip through the AZ desert coming up and didn't want to end up pushing the bike. He said the one I had in it was as good as anything (GelMat) that he could sell me, and since it's his job to sell me batteries, I'm guessing the one in it is okay.

What do the codes mean? Are any of my sensors going bad or are the historic faults the result of those moments when I ran the battery down working on the bike?

Mark

[Eleft36]

[/quote]



    are the historic faults the result of those moments when I ran the battery down working on the bike?

Mark
[/quote]

That's as logical assumption, as it runs well now.

Al

[Admiral Akbar]

I don't think so. Last August I took it to an independant battery shop where I bought the last two batteries for my police training bikes.

Well was it as hot in that shop when you had the battery tested as it was on the LA freeway? 

Max

[Paniolo]

I don't think so. Last August I took it to an independant battery shop where I bought the last two batteries for my police training bikes.

Well was it as hot in that shop when you had the battery tested as it was on the LA freeway? 

Max

No, at least 25 degrees cooler.