How do you change tires?

[Sonny S.]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the Dynabeads. Many have tried them and said they noticed a big difference.
Some even installed NEW tires, rode, felt vibration, then installed beads and it was gone.

[superglidesport1]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the Dynabeads. Many have tried them and said they noticed a big difference.
Some even installed NEW tires, rode, felt vibration, then installed beads and it was gone.

Some of the vibration induced harmonics were dampened but the tire & wheel assembly was not balanced using the Dynabeads.

Check out the testimonials on their website. Nothing but undocumented claims from uninformed customers. No scientific white paper or "validation" by tire or vehicle manufacturers. If it did what they say it does; exactly how they say it does it, they'd have loads of worthwhile testimonials from engineers who work for companies who test things. Where are their endorsements and acceptance from tire companies and vehicle manufacturers??

[Sonny S.]

yeah I don't usually look to the manufacturers site for claim. Just surfin the net, and stumbles across forums such as BMW,Goldwing, Sportbikes etc.

[Ken R]

I'm not sure if anyone has put DynaBeads in an out-of-balance tire on a wheel and then put it on a balancing machine to see if it is indeed balanced.  I suspect that it would not be.  I'll continue to use weights. 

Dunlop specifically voids warranty responsibility on tires in which balancing powders have been used. 

From their site:
Tires injected with dry/liquid balancers or sealants, or in which anything other than air has been used as the support medium.

[superglidesport1]

Ray, Don't ever go to 70 PSI.............that's way too much pressure and is dangerous. 60 psi is the maximum safe recommended bead seating pressure. Also, as someone who has seen a tire blow off a wheel, if you have a problem with the bead seating at ~ 30 PSI, put a couple of 3/8" link safety chains (loose ends bolted together) around the tire and wheel. This will prevent the tire from separating from the wheel in case of a blowout or blowoff. Better yet, use a tire safety cage. A blowout can have the same results as a 1/4 to 1/2 stick of dynamite!

There is some danger and liability in doing this kind of work, therefore some service shops are wary of mounting third party sourced tires. Especially if they're not making a profit on the tire purchase. In the service business profit is not a dirty word, it's a necessity.

Work smart!
Frank

[sandrooney]

I have used the beads for about 30,000 miles now with no problems. I had no cuping or pocketing on my front tire when I changed it after using them. I have replaced more front tires from cuping or pocketing than from tread wear,until using the beads. I get no hopping or wobbling what so ever. I am not a tire or balancing expert or claim to know how it all works, all I know is they do work. I don't need any papers or scientific data, just experience from using them.
Just my experience,
SR

[Big Dan]

I'm lucky. Local guy has a fancy tire machine for all kinds of custom rims, and can do mine without marring the powdercoat. Charges me 10 bucks apiece. Can't go wrong there.

[superglidesport1]

I have used the beads for about 30,000 miles now with no problems. I had no cuping or pocketing on my front tire when I changed it after using them. I have replaced more front tires from cuping or pocketing than from tread wear,until using the beads. I get no hopping or wobbling what so ever. I am not a tire or balancing expert or claim to know how it all works, all I know is they do work. I don't need any papers or scientific data, just experience from using them.
Just my experience,
SR

SR,

If you're riding with unbalanced tires you don't know what you're missing. If you've never had it..........you've never missed it.

The Dynabeads will "dampen" some of the harmonics due to imbalance, that's all. They will not balance your tires. There's a huge difference unless of course your initial tire and wheel combination never needed balance correction which is possible, but not probable.

[smoserx1]

I bought the HF tire changer about a year ago with the MC adaptor & I believe it paid for itself the first time I used it.  I coated the rim clamps with plasti-dip & cut up a plastic coffee can, and made protectors for the ends of the mount/dismount bar.  The secret to this (or any other mounting/dismounting method) is to make sure the opposite side of the tire you are working on is pushed down into the "drop zone" or valley of the rim (this gives you slack where you are working).  If you are fighting the tire, chances are this is the problem.  Little pieces of wood between the tire and the rim help here.  I do end up using two small tire irons to install the last 100 degrees or so of the new tire bead.  When I have the new tire mounted and the balance dot aligned I use an air gun with a rubber tip to seat the bead (valve core removed), then let the air out & replace the valve core & re-inflate.  I use two jack stands and the motorcycle axle (or tire changer center post) as a balancer.  Any heavy spot immediately goes to 6:00 & I tape 1/4 ounce weights at 12:00 & try again till the wheel stops at random.  Works like a charm.  I remove the brake disks before I begin also.  I learned this from reading about others misfortunes.  Instead of locktite I use anti seize on the bolts, and next time they come out like they should.  There are lots of good video tutorials on tire changing and u-tube videos out there on the web.  Tire changing was the last service procedure I decided to try myself and it had always intimidated me.  No more.

[FLTRI]

I bought the HF tire changer about a year ago with the MC adaptor & I believe it paid for itself the first time I used it.  I coated the rim clamps with plasti-dip & cut up a plastic coffee can, and made protectors for the ends of the mount/dismount bar.  The secret to this (or any other mounting/dismounting method) is to make sure the opposite side of the tire you are working on is pushed down into the "drop zone" or valley of the rim (this gives you slack where you are working).  If you are fighting the tire, chances are this is the problem.  Little pieces of wood between the tire and the rim help here.  I do end up using two small tire irons to install the last 100 degrees or so of the new tire bead.  When I have the new tire mounted and the balance dot aligned I use an air gun with a rubber tip to seat the bead (valve core removed), then let the air out & replace the valve core & re-inflate.  I use two jack stands and the motorcycle axle (or tire changer center post) as a balancer.  Any heavy spot immediately goes to 6:00 & I tape 1/4 ounce weights at 12:00 & try again till the wheel stops at random.  Works like a charm.  I remove the brake disks before I begin also.  I learned this from reading about others misfortunes.  Instead of locktite I use anti seize on the bolts, and next time they come out like they should.  There are lots of good video tutorials on tire changing and u-tube videos out there on the web.  Tire changing was the last service procedure I decided to try myself and it had always intimidated me.  No more.

Wanna come and change tires at our tire test? Sounds like you prolly could get a set of bagger tires changed in a jiffy? 
My advice with anti seize used to hold brake parts together: Don't let your insurance company know. (even though I do the same thing )

[CraigArizona85248]

I have a dickens of a time getting the new tire back ON.  They fight me.  (and it's the time when I'm most likely to bend a rotor).

Take the rotor off, it's not a big deal.

I use an old 14" steel car wheel to protect the rotor when changing the tires.  I throw a towel over the car wheel and set the motorcycle wheel on it so that the rotor is hanging down into the "dish" of the car wheel.  It provides a solid surface for changing the tire and keeps the rotor from coming in contact with anything.

-Craig

[FLTRI]

Craig,
'Nother tire changer candidate for the tire evaluation test?
Bob

[Sonny S.]

Sign me up Bob,

I just picked up the HF tire changer. Gotta store near me, and scored a sweet deal. Thay had a 20% off internet coupon thing going.
Didn't know it until I hit the register but the cashier hooked me up. The base was $10 off anyway, and got the whole set up for $85 with tax.

Now, I still have'nt decided what I'm doing about balancing. Guess I'll get a static balancing stand and weights, but I'm also going to try the Dynabeads.... just gotta know 
Might get one of those MOJO Bars too...heck it's more than the changer.

ps. please find a track that is near a good ice cream stand 

[superglidesport1]

Sign me up Bob,

I just picked up the HF tire changer. Gotta store near me, and scored a sweet deal. Thay had a 20% off internet coupon thing going.
Didn't know it until I hit the register but the cashier hooked me up. The base was $10 off anyway, and got the whole set up for $85 with tax.

Now, I still have'nt decided what I'm doing about balancing. Guess I'll get a static balancing stand and weights, but I'm also going to try the Dynabeads.... just gotta know 
Might get one of those MOJO Bars too...heck it's more than the changer.

ps. please find a track that is near a good ice cream stand 

Sonny, Now that you've bitten the bullet and are invested in equipment to change your own tires why not take it to the next level and get yourself some balancing equipment? I've been using the Tachyon Static wheel balancer with great results. I've even solved vibration complaints on bikes that were using Dynabeads or where the tires were improperly balanced on a computerized spin balancer. Here's a link for more information: http://www.tachyonmotorsports.com/balancers.html

I've mounted tires and used as little as 1/2 oz. of correction weight. On the other hand I've seen tire & wheel assemblies with over 5 oz. of weight on them. When this happens, I usually loosen the bead and move the tire 180 degrees on the wheel and can rebalance using a reasonable amount of weight. 

Do it right the first time!

Ride safe and ride smooth!

[CrazyRay]

Superglidesport, thanks for the input. Nothing better than learning from other's experience on these boards.

I am sure the best lube is the tire lube used for changing tires. The reason I like dishwashing soap is (besides being cheap and available, like me) that when it dries good it's a little bit sticky. Never had a problem with it.

I wasn't sure of the maximum safe inflation pressure. Rarely have gone as high as 70 lbs. It usually pops in before that. Also, if the bead is slowly but steady moving toward the seat, you don't necessarily need more pressure, just wait for it to seat. The chain idea is good too. I have taken a tie down and wrapped it around the tire, connect the hooks and pull it tight. It helps for sure on the tough ones.

Bob, thanks for your input as well, good stuff.

Sonny that sounds like a deal at HF. I'm looking at it myself now. Thanks for the heads up.

Ray.

Good Thread!

[PoorUB]

Sign me up Bob,

I just picked up the HF tire changer. Gotta store near me, and scored a sweet deal. Thay had a 20% off internet coupon thing going.
Didn't know it until I hit the register but the cashier hooked me up. The base was $10 off anyway, and got the whole set up for $85 with tax.

Now, I still have'nt decided what I'm doing about balancing. Guess I'll get a static balancing stand and weights, but I'm also going to try the Dynabeads.... just gotta know 
Might get one of those MOJO Bars too...heck it's more than the changer.

ps. please find a track that is near a good ice cream stand 

Sonny, turn around and head back, I just found out HF has a static balancer, item#98488, on sale right no for $49.99. Good deal for the price. Trust me, get the Mojo block and bar, well worth the money!

[Ken R]

Sign me up Bob,

I just picked up the HF tire changer. Gotta store near me, and scored a sweet deal. Thay had a 20% off internet coupon thing going.
Didn't know it until I hit the register but the cashier hooked me up. The base was $10 off anyway, and got the whole set up for $85 with tax.

Now, I still have'nt decided what I'm doing about balancing. Guess I'll get a static balancing stand and weights, but I'm also going to try the Dynabeads.... just gotta know 
Might get one of those MOJO Bars too...heck it's more than the changer.

ps. please find a track that is near a good ice cream stand 

It's probably a pretty-deep red . . . .but wait a year.  You'll have a pink tire changer.    The paint job gets chalky.  Wear old clothes when using it or you'll end up with pink on your pants. 

I have one too; but have only used it to remove car tires from car rims.  I do have the "motorcycle attachment".  I might try it on a motorcycle wheel in a few months. 

Anchor the changer to the concrete very well.  Don't just use lead sinks.  They work well for bolts in shear, but not made for holding bolts in tension.  They'll pull out.  Get some really good bolt anchors from Home Depot or somewhere like it.   
Also, the base is made of steel channel.  Put spacers under the channel so you can tighten down really well without deforming the channel.   

It's not good when the tool comes loose from the concrete while you're working on a wheel.   

Ken 

[Ken R]

Sign me up Bob,

I just picked up the HF tire changer. Gotta store near me, and scored a sweet deal. Thay had a 20% off internet coupon thing going.
Didn't know it until I hit the register but the cashier hooked me up. The base was $10 off anyway, and got the whole set up for $85 with tax.

Now, I still have'nt decided what I'm doing about balancing. Guess I'll get a static balancing stand and weights, but I'm also going to try the Dynabeads.... just gotta know 
Might get one of those MOJO Bars too...heck it's more than the changer.

ps. please find a track that is near a good ice cream stand 

Sonny, turn around and head back, I just found out HF has a static balancer, item#98488, on sale right no for $49.99. Good deal for the price. Trust me, get the Mojo block and bar, well worth the money!

WOW!  That's a new item.  They didn't have those when I built mine.  That is a MUST HAVE!   

[gilb]

Looks great but do you need the adapters that they sell for Harley?  Not sure what those would be used for.

[CrazyRay]

Looks great but do you need the adapters that they sell for Harley?  Not sure what those would be used for.

HF sells the axle hole adapters separate from the balancer. That way you can get what fits your brand bike.

[road-dawgs1]

http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tirechange

[CrazyRay]

thanks for that site RoadDawg. here's another one that might be of interest...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html

[PoorUB]

Looks great but do you need the adapters that they sell for Harley?  Not sure what those would be used for.

HF sells the axle hole adapters separate from the balancer. That way you can get what fits your brand bike.

That is how I ran across the balancer. I saw the adaptors first at the local HF store. HF has adaptors for the 3/4" axles, item# 98493, but none for the 1" axles, but I wonder if the cone adaptors the appear to come with it would work fine.

[Sonny S.]

" It's probably a pretty-deep red . . . .but wait a year.  You'll have a pink tire changer.    The paint job gets chalky.  Wear old clothes when using it or you'll end up with pink on your pants.  "


Funny you mentioned that. It is the typical cheap azz chinese tool red but I think I'm gonna scuff it up and give it a blast of some Rustoleum red paint...lol.

I saw the static balancer there but didn't like the looks of it. Didn't have one out of the box but for some reason I did'nt go for it.
I think I'm better off spending a few bucks on a better static balancer.
Was looking at the MOJO Blocks on the site but was thinking I could come up with something as good  but cheaper......prolly not cheaper by the time I'm done...lol.

I am going to do a good bit a research before I buy a balancer. Just wanna try to get the most for my $$$.

[Ken R]

I made mine out of wood.  Oak uprights glued and biscuit-joined to a 1" thick base.  Into the top of the uprights, I cut "V" grooves for bearings.  Got some sealed bearings, removed the seals and washed them out with thinner.  Inner diameter is 1", to matchthe axle. 

With this, I could get within 1/4 ounce.  Then, the wheel/tire would stop rotating at random.   Have done about 6 mounts this way.  Takes about 10 minutes per wheel.

The one at HF actually looks more professional. 

Ken