fuel injection to carb?

[guesscrazy]

I have a 01 RKC with M&M fuel injection.I want to convert this to a carbed bike.I need to know what has to be changed.Maybe a parts list.Any tips?Can I use the stock cables.What carb to use on a 95" with andrews 21 cams?

[Topend]

Someone more in the know will chime in but off the top of my head you will need; carb ignition wiring harness for that year, carb Screamin Eagle ignition or other aftermarket one, fuel petcock, carb with choke cable, (stock or 42mm Mikuni would work with your setup), stock carb intake manifold, Pingel FI to carb gas tank adaptor for your FI tank, carb top motor mount (has mount for the choke cable pull). I had to change one of my throttle cables when using a 42mm Mikuni but can't recall if it was the push or pull. You will have to cut out or remove the inside fuel lines or tubing. Early models had the hard tubing and later had rubber lines. Some people have drilled from the bottom to remove the hard lines. I do not have the part #'s at this time but someone will post them for ya. It is not hard just take your time. Harness is plug and play and the rest is just unbolt & install the new parts. New ignition will plug right in.

[Rags722]

Check with Truck for first hand info as he just did this last year.  Here is a copy of the "stuff" needed, but I think Truck found an error or two in this list:



[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[jaw65]

I have a 01 RKC with M&M fuel injection.I want to convert this to a carbed bike.I need to know what has to be changed.Maybe a parts list.Any tips?Can I use the stock cables.What carb to use on a 95" with andrews 21 cams?

Why?
I have a 99 roadking with the mm injection i just installed a Accel SLM unit , the bike runs great, big improvement.

[Topend]

Jaw65,
It is better to have the carb IMHO because it is much easier when you make engine mods and less cost in tuning. Also is a bottleneck with the restrictive intake. Many seem to cause problems later on down the line.

[05FLHTC]

Not to mention no body knows chit from chinola about em when something goes wrong. Many part changers out there, in the end if trouble develops a carb conversion is cheaper & way more user friendly & reliable for the long run...like was already mentioned, just ask Truck   

I wouldn't swap just for chits & giggles but the very first time it had en issue that I could not correct with a can of cleaner or by pulling the fuse after making adjustments OFF it would come.

[guesscrazy]

Do you remove the fuel pump or leave it in.

[Nebraskarider1]

Did my '97 3 years ago and have never been happier. I used an HSR42 Mikuni and an Ultima nosecone innition (same as Dyna2000i). If you have cruise control the drawback is the $100 lever to hook it up to the Mikuni. I went with the Mikuni Total Kit for $349 just because I didn't want to go used and didn't realize at the time a new CV wasn't all that expensive. Pingel petcock, did my own wiring, plugging into the factory plug from the main harness. Wired the ignition for single fire according to the instructions. The worst part is drilling out the fuel line so the petcock will go in the tank. I used a tiny cutoff wheel after letting the tank air out for 5 days. Be careful not to damage the threads in the tank when drilling out the fuel lines, I used a bushing around the drill bit when I got up to around a 7/16". I drilled in steps. If you don't go in there with a cutoff wheel after you get to the largest drill bit that goes thru the threads you will still have part of the fuel line sticking up in the tank and will not have as much usable fuel. I know some people won't believe this but I have put over 5gal. in on more than one occasion and not ran out, but was on reserve. I had a part list but it was for my 97 and was all Evo related, can't find it anyway. I bought a Deutsh connector that plugged right into the main harness from J&P Cycles. White with black stripe is for ignition power black for ground and pink for tach. I also got a horn/choke bracket and a voes switch, can't remember if it took  a seperate bracket or if it went on the choke bracket. Yes remove the fuel pump.

[Topend]

I think most people leave the fuel pump inside because the fuel gauge might be connected but strip out everything Else. I used a separate FI tank I got cheap because it did not have the round removeable plate under the gas gauge that my 99 tank had and also just one hole at the bottom. My old tank I had a hard time with the seal between the tank & plate. So the newer tank got rid of the screws with the vinyl sealing thingies and the gasket between the plate and tank because it was one solid unit under the gas gauge. The tank already was stripped of all internals, pump, lines etc. I used a HD adaptor for the petcock and do not have a gas gauge. I use the trip meter to know when to fuel up.

[Ancient]

I believe your 01' is like my 00'. No drilling needed on the tank fittings. Take the top cover off the tank, disconnect or cut the plastic pressure and return lines inside the tank, your fittings will then turn easily so you can remove them. Remove the pump and filter. Leave the float and it's wiring. Zip tie the pump wiring to the under canopy support. Reinstall top cover. Unhook pump power lead at the rear of the tank and leave it unhooked. Your gauge will still work fine.

Getcha' the fuel fitting conversion kit from Pingel or somebody else. (maybe cheaper ones available?)
It will give you a plug for 1 hole and an adapter for the other hole that accepts a 22mm petcock.

I used the Mik 42 HSR. Stock cables worked fine for me.

Had everything laid out and ready and had studied the service manual. Did the swap in 4 hrs or about 5 beers.

Anyone with some mechanical ability can do it, no problem.

[guesscrazy]

Will the SE ignition module and coil # 32749-99a work?

[jaw65]

Jaw65,
It is better to have the carb IMHO because it is much easier when you make engine mods and less cost in tuning. Also is a bottleneck with the restrictive intake. Many seem to cause problems later on down the line.

Yes i understand that but for the cost of the conversion you could do a lot of turning and repairs.

[rking1550]

I've got a Screaming eagle version of the mikuni HSR 42mm up for sale in the swap meet section if your interested. 

[Nebraskarider1]

Jaw65,
It is better to have the carb IMHO because it is much easier when you make engine mods and less cost in tuning. Also is a bottleneck with the restrictive intake. Many seem to cause problems later on down the line.

Yes i understand that but for the cost of the conversion you could do a lot of turning and repairs.

I had mine tuned ran ok. I wasn't happy with ok. I ended up with $800 in all my new parts including the $100 cruise lever for the HSR42. Sold all the old stuff and powercommander on the swap meet section over the period of about 18 months and got about 70% of that 800 back and have a bike that runs great and is consistent on mileage and fun to ride again.

[Ancient]

Will the SE ignition module and coil # 32749-99a work?

SE module will work. Stock will work too. I believe the SE had a stock curve and a higher rev limit There were recalls on them so you might make sure you get the latest revision. There are aftermarket adjustables like DTT and Dynatek also.

Why change the coil? It doesn't know what module is telling it to fire. If you get the correct ignition harness it will plug right into your coil just like the MM harness did.

[Topend]

Guesscrazy,
Go to amm.haan.de and look at the FI to Carb conversion. It is an old article about HD FI to carb conversion and will give you an idea of what is involved. He did not use the carb ignition wiring harness which I think would make it much easier as everything is plug and play. All the connectors are fool proof meaning you can only plug in each conector to it's correct location or they will not hook up.

[Ancient]

Oh, ran across my list from when I did my 2000 RK.

Engine mount w/choke slot 16315-99 $7.40
Choke cable 29229-88D $10.00
Choke elbow 27580-88 $3.30
Choke boot 27582-88 $2.86
Manifold to Head seals 26995-86B $2.70
MAP sensor 32316-99 $28.03
MAP sensor seal 11291 $1.93
MAP sensor retaining clip 38723-99 $0.22
MAP sensor retaining clip screw 68042-99 $1.65
Ignition Harness (carb type/no cam sensor) 32435-01 $116.35
Ignition module (HD stock new) 32478-99B $148.50
Pingel tank conversion kit $41.70
Pingel fuel petcock $75.00
Mikuni HSR42-19 total kit - includes manifold, boot, brackets, air cleaner, etc. $409.99

I ended up buying an adjustable module.

Also, the MAP sensor p/n has rolled and I don't have the new one. Bear in mind this is the same part as the barometric pressure sensor mounted with your MM module. You could just move it to the manifold, but for a few bucks, you could use a new one.

Have a good time with it!

[Topend]

If you want a Mikuni carb I would suggest calling Fox Distributing (630) 513-9700. I purchased my 42mm Mikuni from them last year for $300.00 to my door (carb only). They will have the complete kit etc... Tell them what your build is and they will hook you up. I would suggest using a TC stock intake manifold with a SE air cleaner backing plate. Seems like you can get them cheap and work well.

[rking1550]

guesscrazy
if your interested in my carb , I think I may have a stock intake I would through in for the same price. I just have to take a look and see if I do still have it, pretty sure I do. 

[Topend]

RKing1550,
I was not trying to steer guesscrazy around the sale of your 42mm SE carb, I did not read all the posts and just did not see the offer of your carb for sale..

[rking1550]

Topend97
No harm no foul, all good info. Your post also reminded me
I still have the intake too ( I switched to the SE intake)
If it's something guesscrazy or anybody else could use it's all
good,   

[guesscrazy]

pm sent

[Rags722]

Guess,
Just remembered Truck is supposed to be away this week on vacation, so he may not see this thread for a while.  I think if you do some searches you will find his thread from about a year ago about his conversion.  If my memory is right, he ran into at least 2 problems using the parts on the list I provided.  I think he had trouble with the Pingle adaptor clearing the rocker box cover when in the rear hole, so he moved it to the front hole.  Also was some issue with either the choke cable or choke cable bracket not routing correctly.  Other than that, I think everything was pretty much plug and play.

[Topend]

If you go to the Pingel website and search for the MM to carb tank adaptor, you will see a picture of the two adaptors installed in the tank. The plug is in the rearward hole and the adaptor for the petcock is in the forward hole. I would think this is because of clearance issues.

[rking1550]

guesscrazy
just noticed your question on the cables. I did this conversion on my 01 RKC about 1 1/2 years ago. Well the dealer did it for me seeing as it was in their shop for MM issues, but they did put on new cables. I'm not sure what the difference is tho.
the parts list posted looks pretty complete. I think some of the prices are old , the last map sensor I bought was closer to $50 I think.
   Also you'll need new screws for the access hole on the fuel tank, those are a 1 time use screws.
I went with the DTT adjustable ignition, more expensive up front, but worth it if you think you might do more engine mods down the road.