Trued & Welded Crank out .005

[02FYRFTR]

Typical flywheel assembly check sheet.   Please read footnotes

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[turboprop]

Please tell us what they say at Rev Perf about their crank.

I hope Rev Perf has does more for you than they did for me with their Nikasil cylinders. They re-plated the cylinders but would not replace the pistons, rings or gaskets, even though they supplied them with their kit. I was told it was not their responsibility. Looking at the build sheet posted above it looks like Rev Perf have not changed their policies.

[Ultrashovel]

Runout can be caused by other than merely slipping and rotating. Since the crank has already been welded, I doubt that it rotated. It may have opened up due to stress, that is widened at the point opposite the crankpin, so that the flywheels are no longer parallel. This would cause increased indicated runout.

The Harley manuals up to the Evolution series show the procedure for truing flywheels on a five-piece or three-piece lower end with tapered crankpins. Not only does the mechanic have to concern himself with the side to side alignment, but also must make sure that the wheels are parallel. They show a large wedge being used to drive the wheels apart opposite the crankpin. If they are too far apart already, a large vise or clamp is used to correct them.

There's really no telling what has caused this runout without checking it. I'd give the company a chance to check it and fix it if possible.

Sad to say, under the so-called "Harley Specification" .005 isn't too bad since I heard they are up to .012 now. That's really pretty loose.

I've never checked my stock 2004 T.C. The only thing I know is that it runs smoothly without any excess vibration. I guess I really don't want to know what the runout is. LOL.

[02FYRFTR]

 

[ross]

Well I took wheels out & checked them today
& the real problem is the sprocket shaft is bent .015 causing all the runout problems
Other than that no other problems I wish they made a sprocket shaft that was
solid with a nut instead of a hollow shaft with an internal thread

[les]

Do you think an SE comp might help to absorbe some of those 3 foot wheel stands?

[02FYRFTR]

Well I took wheels out & checked them today
& the real problem is the sprocket shaft is bent .015 causing all the runout problems
Other than that no other problems I wish they made a sprocket shaft that was
solid with a nut instead of a hollow shaft with an internal thread« Last Edit: Today at 06:26:12 PM by ross »   


Shame that this wasn't the first entry of this thread.  Might have saved a lot of bad comments on an innocent vendor.

[Big Dan]

Shame that this wasn't the first entry of this thread.  Might have saved a lot of bad comments on an innocent vendor.

You cannot begin to know how much I agree with that statement. 

[Sc00ter]

Shame that this wasn't the first entry of this thread.  Might have saved a lot of bad comments on an innocent vendor.

You cannot begin to know how much I agree with that statement. 

x2...   

[tqjunkie]

yeah ,I had my sprocket shaft bend as well on a welded and pluged crank  runout was .016 on sprocket side and about .0005 pinion side,had it fixed under warranty(replaced sprocket side half of crank assembly) ,came back and was .0005 both sides,  but I think it is starting to twist again on sprocket side as I checked it this winter and sprocket side is .006,the first time it twisted I was burning rubber at every given opportunity as I thought it was bullet proof(WRONG),after the warranty fix I installed a SE compensator and I don't burn the tire off near as much but it still seems to want to twist up like a pretzel,SHEESH what are they making these things out of tissue paper for chr!st sake,by the way this is on a 07 rg with a 113 motor stock crank reworked

[WVULTRA]

by the way this is on a 07 rg with a 113 motor stock crank reworked

IMO, "stock crank reworked" is the root of your problem.


 

[WVULTRA]

Shame that this wasn't the first entry of this thread.  Might have saved a lot of bad comments on an innocent vendor. 

[1FSTRK]

Sorry if this is going off topic, do the the aftermarket cranks have better metal?
Do they hold up better after being plugged and welded?

[ross]

Again I never blamed Rev Perf I thought I might get some intelligent feedback like
"that happened to me & my sprocket shaft was bent" not this should have
been my first post, if I would have had it apart it would have been my first post
just wanted to discuss possibilities

[FXDBI]

You could edit the thread title so it doesnt make the appearence its there fault      Bob

[wurk_truk]

Sorry if this is going off topic, do the the aftermarket cranks have better metal?
Do they hold up better after being plugged and welded?

Not necessarily, and a couple may actually be worse in the longevity dept.  Hmmmm.. I WOULD run a new S&S crank out of the box with no welding, and I would NOT run an R&R 5 pc crank to save my life.  And right now... I run a stock crank balanced and welded by R&R.

Crapshoot because of the engine design IMHO.

[ross]

I edited the thread title & again I never meant to bash Rev Perf as I run their
cylinders I bought all my valves seats springs & retainers, cams the nikasil cylinders
everything from them & they have always been on the money to deal with for me

[ross]

FYI John at darkhorse told me that there is no bullet proof crank
R&RCycle told me the same
After all the discussions the press fit & tapered plug to enhance the press fit is the key
if the press is done right you should'nt need welding & the additional stress of welding could be
detrimental to the whole process due to it could be actually trying to pull them out

[ross]

Also I am checking into having S&S do the crank with a solid sprocket shaft With a threaded end for a nut as my sprocket shaft bent right at the point where it is drilled to depth for the compensator bolt
I will also add SE Compensator for added shock dampening they claim 7 times the torque absorbtion

[Sc00ter]

FYI John at darkhorse told me that there is no bullet proof crank
R&RCycle told me the same
After all the discussions the press fit & tapered plug to enhance the press fit is the key
if the press is done right you should'nt need welding & the additional stress of welding could be
detrimental to the whole process due to it could be actually trying to pull them out

That is 100% correct!  Finally someone agrees!!   

I've been saying for years that welding a crank that is pressed straight and has no runout is a bad practice...as it is detremential to the strength of the crank.  Yet almost no one seems to believe it...

There is nothing wrong with a pressed crank as long as the process is done properly.

The problem with the MOCO pressed cranks is the assembly process of the crank is automatic - and the consistency of the process and the end result of the process is suspect at best.  But the cranks that are pressed properly - are fine.  It's the ones that are pressed together resulting in runout that are the problem.  In the beginning, the MOCO tried to straighten those cranks.  But then discovered that the ones they tried to straighten were failing.  Trying to straighten them only weakened the joint.  So they stopped trying to straighten them - and increased the runout specification.

But at the end of the day, the cranks that exit the process without runout, are good cranks - and will last.  Welding a good crank only disturbs the press fit - and results in less overall strength.  Believe it or not...

And as long as I'm on the topic - that's why I think the cranks in the 120r motors will be fine.  The SE cranks are not assembled in an automatic process.  They are assembled in a manual process - without runout.  These cranks will have a stronger pressed fit - and will last...  Just my opinion...  Time will tell...

[02FYRFTR]

Also I am checking into having S&S do the crank with a solid sprocket shaft With a threaded end for a nut as my sprocket shaft bent right at the point where it is drilled to depth for the compensator bolt
I will also add SE Compensator for added shock dampening they claim 7 times the torque absorbtion

I believe that the S&S flywheels for Twin Cams do not have the shaft forged integrally with the flywheel as are the H/D assemblies.  The sprocket shafts are pressed and keyed onto the flywheel for both the sprocket shaft and pinion shaft assemblies.  You can purchase S&S replacement pinion and sprocket shafts.  Seems to me that someone should be machining the H/D assemblies for replaceable shafts.  S&S also plugs all their twin Cam assemblies.

[hrdtail78]

http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/res11gba9/index.html

Another idea for a crank.  He isn't cheap but his own design is holding up to the power he is putting to the ground.

[02FYRFTR]

http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/res11gba9/index.html

Another idea for a crank.  He isn't cheap but his own design is holding up to the power he is putting to the ground.

Went to the website and I saw a neat copy of the RP website crank work options.  Am I missing something ??

[hrdtail78]

You have to call and talk with him about his crank.

[Admiral Akbar]

You have to call and talk with him about his crank.

He loves to talk about it but his crank only stays straight as long as he don't f@@k with it,, 

Does look the RP pictures..

Max