low cold cranking

[FSG]

another => http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/CompressRel.html

[Deye76]

I think S&S came out with Easy Start cams a/c better to give up on those problematic electric releases and find another discrete solution. 
BTW there's room for manual releases in S&S heads, the Evo ones anyway. Not sure why the TC wouldn't accomodate them.

[-JC-1]

FSG-
You are correct sir, there is a shoulder at the bottom of the hole.
I did not consider that until you mentioned it, so there must be a passage from the release hole to the exhaust port- I will investigate further!
I have a pair of S&S release plugs on order, I considered today threading a bolt of the proper size into the hole in order to check leakdown independent of the releases, but I'm glad I didn't now, not knowing how thick the material is at the bottom of the hole, with my luck, I would have pushed it into the cylinder!
many thanks to all 

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

[ReddHogg]

i was just reading back thorough this and thought maby check valve lash

[R.Bingham]

I was just reading the link FSG provided for RSR Racing and something caught my eye.

S&S Cycle developed an Electric Compression Release Kit that solves all of these problems. Oh, you still have to have your battery well maintained and it's a good idea to have the headlight "off" during the cranking phase as well as leaving the throttle plate closed to stack things in your favor. The electric releases are tied to your starter and won't close until you release the starter button i.e. when the engine starts. They also do not invade the combustion chamber with a large tapped hole, nor do they vent externally...they vent through a cross-drilled passage into your exhaust port.

So if I'm reading this correctly,since the releases are tied to the starter and won't close until the starter button is released, wouldn't this cause a low/ false reading for a cranking compression test?
it also says that they vent through the exhaust port.

[FSG]

So if I'm reading this correctly,since the releases are tied to the starter and won't close until the starter button is released, wouldn't this cause a false reading for a cranking compression test?

Yes.  So back to the OP yesterday I put the compression gauge on my 124, and got 120 both holes, with the electric compression releases unplugged, and 90 with them plugged in..  I guess that is normal, the CR's are doing their job.

[rbabos]

Just looking at the pics and seeing two places need to seal at the same time. Good luck with that. Piss poor setup if you ask me. Appears to be leakage at both sealing points in the head from what I can see.
Ron

[-JC-1]

Just looking at the pics and seeing two places need to seal at the same time. Good luck with that. Piss poor setup if you ask me. Appears to be leakage at both sealing points in the head from what I can see.
Ron

That's what I think too, the hole and the release have to match perfectly.

I do know that the compression releases are opening and closing, but to be working properly they must maintain a seal, which is an entirely different matter.

I think I'm going to redo the leakdown and try to pinpoint the air loss with a mechanics stethoscope.

[R.Bingham]

So if I'm reading this correctly,since the releases are tied to the starter and won't close until the starter button is released, wouldn't this cause a false reading for a cranking compression test?

Yes.  So back to the OP yesterday I put the compression gauge on my 124, and got 120 both holes, with the electric compression releases unplugged, and 90 with them plugged in..  I guess that is normal, the CR's are doing their job.

Oops, I overlooked that.

[86fxwg]

try to pinpoint the air loss with a mechanics stethoscope.

  Use the rubber hose from the mechanics stethoscope or Spray the suspected area with tire leakfinder or soapy water from a spray bottle. If you have any buddys in the auto repair buissness borrow a smoke machine.
Dave