These LED fuses really do work

Started by gryphon, May 23, 2011, 10:42:27 AM

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gryphon

After losing confidence in breakers a few years ago sailing off the British Columbia coast I started wiring all my bikes with fuses. I know that most of you are likely using the self setting breakers but for those of you using fuses here's a type you may be interested in. A few years ago I started using fuses that have a little red LED that's supposed to light up if the fuse blows. Never had one blow so I didn't really  know what to expect. Well the other night I went for a ride after messing with one of my spotlights and wouldn't you know it they suddenly went out about half way through my ride (luckily they're on their own fuse so no real big problem). When I got home it only took a second to find the problem (I had caused it while tinkering around) and fix it. Lights still didn't work. I took a look at the fuse panel and sure enough there was a little red light letting me know the fuse was blown. By the way, for testing and repair work I always carry a resettable breaker that plugs into the panel and is used for diagnosing problems only.

Older-twin

That is a cool lookin' setup, and makes it just that much easier to diagnose an electrical problem.   :up:

bluehighwayfx

That is a nice setup. Would you pass along anything that you learned about it like where you found the parts and anything you wish you had done differently. I am rewiring my scooter this winter and would like to change to this setup.
Killing bugs at high speed since 1978, same shovel, different day.

gryphon

that little fuse panel is available at www.centechwire.com and is the model AP-1. It's been on the bike for about 5 years now and is pretty much impervious to vibration. They have a stainless steel cover and were originaly designed for offroad dune buggies and such. The fuses came from Jeggs if I remember correctly. Just google "LED fuses" and "resetable fuses". I was originaly going to mount the panel on a hinge so it could fold out of the way but it is so small it hasn't been a bother. I ONLY use marine grade wire and have for many years. It is super super finely stranded, has much better insulation, and is fully tinned for it's full length so it will never corrode. I have this type of wire in my bilge and after many years of exposure to salt water etc it looks brand new. It is also heavier gauge than standard automotive wire. Marine wire (AWG) in 16g is about the same as 14g automotive (SAE). Marine wire is rated to 600v. I also use Badlands modules for my lighting. Allows me to have self canceling turn signals, emergency flashers, and my rear running/signal lights also function as brake lights. They also have built in equalizers so you can use LED bulbs. I have used them for years and installed them on a few bikes during that time and have never had even a hiccup from them. Best on the market.

76shuvlinoff

you get out of it what you put into it
:up:
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

loudnlow

I have seen those fuses used in automotive and Med/heavy truck applications.  Some like them but you have to be careful as to what circuit they are used in.  I seen them cause all kinds of issues when connected to a module/computer.   The factories dont use em, probably for a reason.  If used i'd only use them in simple circuits like a manually operated light or something.


gryphon

I don't really have a lot of computers on my bike so it hasn't been a problem. The closest I come to a computer is my Ultima ignition. The power wire to it is run from the coil which of course is fed from the ignition switch. That switch is fused with one of the LED fuses and it hasn't been a problem. Perhaps on a Twinkie or something with all their electronics it might be a problem. I've been running 'em for years though with zero difficulty. Not really sure what problems they would cause but I'm not an electrical tech either.