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tappet adjustment

Started by oldskool, July 23, 2011, 08:55:15 AM

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oldskool

Man I will tell you I've never had this problem!This 79 shovel is kicking my ass! If I go by the book it's just not rite!just put in new Tappets cause sounded like 1 of the old ones calapsed  on us Saturday! so dry it say's  at lowest position and the other like is at highest position turn adjusting screw downward until until hydraulic unit piston bottoms in it's bore then turn adjusting screw UPWARD exactly 1 3/4 turns lock lock nut!if wet lowest position then 4 turns down then lock lock nut! any one have any advice it would be appreciated! never had this happen usually 20 minute job and there done!???

billbuilds

     oldschool,
     Are you talking stock style hydraulic units and stock pushrods? The starting point of  pushrod adjustment should be to lengthen it until there is no more descernable up and down movement. From there the second step is to further lengthen the pushrod a full four turns which is 24 flats. This should be done when the roller portions of the lifters on the lowest point or "heal" of the cam. Do the front cylinder first. Leave the pushrod tubes off. Go get something cool to drink whie you wait for the hydraulic unit to bleed down: pushrods will turn when rolled between fingers an thumb. Only now can you safely roll the motor over and do the rear cylinder. Really should wait for those two to bleed down before firing motor. Don't forget to lengten and clip the pushrod tubes. HTH, Bill
Anybody who tries to tell you that the press is the enemy of the people is just that.

moosemush

You didn't really say where your problem lies. What exactly isn't right? Did you adjust them by the dry method or the wet method? Did you start the bike afterward? Did they make noise or do they just not feel right during adjustment? Either way I would use the 24 flats (4 turns) into the lifter from no slack method. The other way sounds like they'll end up deeper into the lifter. Also be sure you have stock 32 tpi pushrods. If they're not then the number of flats used to adjust them changes. If they're dry you won't have to wait for a bleed down. The pushrod will probably spin right away. If they're pumped then just wait till you can spin it and move on to the next.

oldskool

well went through them again for the idk 6th time at 4 turns it took out the noise,sounds like rattle
like loose push rods but doesn't want to idle!!?then loosened them all a 1/2 turn which should be about 3 1/2 it does idle but making a little rattle .???? uugh were doing 2 at a time a 79 and a 80 both are acting pretty much the same!????

easyricer

I've had some before where I'd have to play with it to get them quiet (got one in mine right now like that) The front exhaust is set at 26 flats and the other 3 at 24 flats. One a Twinkie I had for a while, I could only get them quiet at 20 flats (all 4) If you can't get the noise out, you probably have other issues going on, like worn lifter bores or maybe the rocker bushings and shafts.
Did you replace only the hydrolic units or the entire lifter? Is the cam in good shape? Shimmed right?
When does the noise come on? Is it right at start up or after it gets warm/hot?
EASY
Just ride the damned thing!