How do I get the best handling and ride from a 2005 FXDL

[Ozbernie]

I'm thinking it's time to get my 05 FXDL to handle and ride smoother.
Currently I have 12 inch 412 Progressive shocks on the rear and progressive fork springs in the narrowglide. I find the progressive shocks very harsh and lacking any feel. Roads here are very rough and potholed.
I need more ground clearance and am thinking of a different front end or longer fork tubes. Im sick of getting smacked about and scraping exhaust, primary, footpegs etc. Possibly Wideglide length? I'm willing to sacrifice the Lowrider look for much better handling.
What are people's experiences and opinions?
Cheers

[speedzter]

Throw those shocks in the bin and get something decent around 13.5".
Your fork length should be fine, but get some cartridge emulators.
I also have Tru Track's fitted.
At least your on the right track with raising the height. Decent suspension travel is a must.
I'm lucky as my FXDX came with most of the good stuff fitted.

[Admiral Akbar]

Done right, you don't need a true track.. If this lowrider has a 32 deg frame, you will need to lengthen the forks and possibly rake the trees to cut the trail.. As speedster says good longer rear shocks are a must.. The first step is to determine the rake on the frame.. and whether you can live with 6 inches of trail.. Max

[dynaglide44]

I set about my '05 FXDCi in several stages. First put Progressive's fork springs in and optimised the "sag" with the supplied plasic tube. I think I aimed for about 2" from fully extended with me on board.
Next I fitted some (Aussie) Ikon adjustable damping units, with triple rate springs. So far so good, but it still dragged the front exhaust with Gertie on the back. So I got a friend with a lathe to turn some top mount bolts with a dog-leg in them to add 1/2" to the rear ride height. Result! Only occasionally touch the rests down now, and that's ok as they fold! (see pic)
Finally the expensive coup de grace - I put mid-glide triple trees with an extended wheel spindle, running an 18" x 130/70 front tyre and can now hustle it through roundabouts with no washout or dragging. Blow me, the Factory is now putting that on the new Switchback. Hey Ho

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[HD/Wrench]

Ohlins rear remote shocks would by my first choice. And inverted up front. Get ready to spend some coin but you will have a bike that will handle like its on rails.

[Ozbernie]

Done right, you don't need a true track.. If this lowrider has a 32 deg frame, you will need to lengthen the forks and possibly rake the trees to cut the trail.. As speedster says good longer rear shocks are a must.. The first step is to determine the rake on the frame.. and whether you can live with 6 inches of trail.. Max

The frame has the 32 deg headstem angle. What is your suggestion for rear shock and fork tube length Max? What will 6 inches of trail do for handling?

[Merc63]

Done right, you don't need a true track.. If this lowrider has a 32 deg frame, you will need to lengthen the forks and possibly rake the trees to cut the trail.. As speedster says good longer rear shocks are a must.. The first step is to determine the rake on the frame.. and whether you can live with 6 inches of trail.. Max

The frame has the 32 deg headstem angle. What is your suggestion for rear shock and fork tube length Max? What will 6 inches of trail do for handling?

6 inches of trail will give you stable high speed, but low speed will be negatively effected, steering will feel heavy.

[chopper]

Longer shocks for better ride.  And if you really like to stuff it in the corners, spring for a fork brace.

[saddle tramp]

I believe the old FXDX frames had a 28* neck, so tree's with a negative offset would help. They also had 3/4" longer front and rear suspension on them the front was adjustable for sag/preload comp. and rebound, the rear was adjustable for sag/preload and rebound dampening only. But set up right they handle great on mountain roads.

[speedzter]

Done right, you don't need a true track.. Max

With the rubber mount engine/swingarm in the Dyna , even with a perfectly set up bike, you will still get rear steer.
I think a True track or similar is the only way to stop this.
My bike went around corners fine, but straight line high speed stability wasn't great.
Maybe that's because of the 28 deg rake, 4.1" trail of the fxdx.

[04 SE Deuce]

  Need speed sensitive damping to track "rough and potholed."  Emulators are a nice step in that direction without breaking the bank.  Longer rear shocks will help reduce trail.  If you raise both ends close to the same amount you should be OK. You might do a little checking as Harley makes different length tubes per model that are interchangeable,  as example the tubes that came on my SE Deuce are 1.2" shorter than standard Deuce tubes...granted completed different front end.  If Harley doesn't have longer tubes the aftermarket should.
  Depending on how serious you are ($) I would try as has been suggested;  emulators, (Race Tech or similar),  set the fork laden sag around 1-1/4" - 1-3/8",  add longer quality shocks, (Ohlins, Works Performance),  and remove any curb feelers hanging down and out in the breeze... pipes, pegs, etc..so many Harley exhaust are not designed with lean angle in mind.
Fork tubes 1" - 1-1/2" longer that might be worth doing to get a little more ride height/lean angle if you need it.   Rick
 

[Admiral Akbar]

Done right, you don't need a true track.. Max

With the rubber mount engine/swingarm in the Dyna , even with a perfectly set up bike, you will still get rear steer.
I think a True track or similar is the only way to stop this.
My bike went around corners fine, but straight line high speed stability wasn't great.
Maybe that's because of the 28 deg rake, 4.1" trail of the fxdx.

Funny but on my FXDX I don't get rear steer..  I've got the Sputhe stabilizers and it don't make any difference if the links are on or not.. I used to have the exact same problem you write about.. Bike is a 116 so it makes good power.. Sweepers at 90. get on it and it would dance.. The only thing the stabilizers did was change the frequency of the dance..  It still danced.. I've tried steering dampers, fork braces, fall away, tire pressure. Should have tried more tires. Metzlers were OK when new but as soon as they started to wear they danced the sweeper dance.

If you raise both ends close to the same amount you should be OK.

Bet he still feels it.. A bit of a fight tossing the thing into turns.. It's worth a try tho..

Max

[Merc63]

So you never found a fix for this instability?


Design flaw of the dyna? I heard the newer dynas 2009+ handle flawlessly..

Done right, you don't need a true track.. Max

With the rubber mount engine/swingarm in the Dyna , even with a perfectly set up bike, you will still get rear steer.
I think a True track or similar is the only way to stop this.
My bike went around corners fine, but straight line high speed stability wasn't great.
Maybe that's because of the 28 deg rake, 4.1" trail of the fxdx.

Funny but on my FXDX I don't get rear steer..  I've got the Sputhe stabilizers and it don't make any difference if the links are on or not.. I used to have the exact same problem you write about.. Bike is a 116 so it makes good power.. Sweepers at 90. get on it and it would dance.. The only thing the stabilizers did was change the frequency of the dance..  It still danced.. I've tried steering dampers, fork braces, fall away, tire pressure. Should have tried more tires. Metzlers were OK when new but as soon as they started to wear they danced the sweeper dance.

If you raise both ends close to the same amount you should be OK.

Bet he still feels it.. A bit of a fight tossing the thing into turns.. It's worth a try tho..

Max

[speedzter]

Funny but on my FXDX I don't get rear steer..  I've got the Sputhe stabilizers and it don't make any difference if the links are on or not.. I used to have the exact same problem you write about.. Bike is a 116 so it makes good power.. Sweepers at 90. get on it and it would dance.. The only thing the stabilizers did was change the frequency of the dance..  It still danced.. I've tried steering dampers, fork braces, fall away, tire pressure. Should have tried more tires. Metzlers were OK when new but as soon as they started to wear they danced the sweeper dance.
Max

I have to say before the True tracks and with new Metz tyres, mine used to get unstable at around 80 mph, with the True Track, it's stable up to 125 which is about as fast as I've taken it.
And it's pretty stable in corners, even when hitting bumps.

[04 SE Deuce]

  If the bike has 0* rake trees raising front and rear the same amount nets the same trail.  If there is rake in the trees then trail decreases as the bike is raised the same front and rear.  Rick

[HogBag]

How do I get the best handling and ride from a 2005 FXDL ?
Trade it on a 2012 road toad. 

[guzzi4v]

I think the True Track I put on my 08 Fat Bob was some of the best money I ever spent.  I am relatively new to Harley and my first long sweeping on-ramp at speed was genuinely disconcerting.  Really.  However that is where I noticed it; I never had any problems at speed in a straight line or cornering around town, just long fast corners that loaded it up a bit. I tend to concur with speedzter in general.

Don't get me wrong though; that bike is a hoot.

[dynaglide44]

Since Ozbernie's LR has the Sportster's 39mm forks, he could try the triple trees off the Superlow, which would pull the fork angle back a few degrees. They fit straight in but you would lose the steering lock as it's at the top of the stem as per Sportster. They are also a bit wider.

[Ozbernie]

How do I get the best handling and ride from a 2005 FXDL ?
Trade it on a 2012 road toad. 

Lol not helping

[HogBag]

Well if you have plenty of money to spend ? Heavy fork springs, Fork brace,  Ohlins shocks, front and rear stabilizer links, magnesium mags, low profile tyres, That will improve the hinge HD fitted to the frame.

[dakota224]

How do I get the best handling and ride from a 2005 FXDL ?
Trade it on a 2012 road toad. 

your kidding right, why, baggers suck,  trade it for a FXR

[Admiral Akbar]

So you never found a fix for this instability?

Design flaw of the dyna? I heard the newer dynas 2009+ handle flawlessly..

Stiffer wheels better profile tires.. I used a 5x18 rear alloy spoked rear wheel  and 2.50 x 19 alloy spoked front..180,x18 rear tire.. In 2007 HD up graded the frame and all swore the bikes got better..  In 2007 they went to a lower profile wider rear tire and the new frame that has one degree more rake..Chassis got the 43 mm forks. But IIRC, if you check the parts manual they used the same motor mounts!  What good is the stiffer frame (not the real issue) if you are using the same rubbers to support the drive train? IMO the main reason for the new frame was to allow for a bigger lower profile tire in the rear.. Adding a degree of rake in the frame may have added trail or helped keep trail the same with the new forks..  Tire profile was the biggest thing..

Max

[HogBag]

How do I get the best handling and ride from a 2005 FXDL ?
Trade it on a 2012 road toad. 

your kidding right, why, baggers suck,  trade it for a FXR

I was kidding and fishing for a bite.

[Ozbernie]

Clearly you have all confused me for a wealthy man! Perhaps I should have added best improvements for smallest financial outlay!

[speedzter]

Well you did say "Best" in your subject title !

But seriously, if you are on a budget , Give the Guys at Ikon in Albury a call, and have a chat about their shocks.
They aren't the best, but good for the money. YSS seem to be OK as well but more $$.
Even the cheaper Ohlins aren't bad $$ wise.
The cartridge emualtors aren't that expensive either. Look at Race Tech or Ricor.
I personally would use True Tracks without question, but depends how you ride.

It's not all that hard. Go to it and tell us how it works out .

[turboprop]

Having good bushings in the swing arm, correct motor mounts, tight stabilizer links and proper alignment is a given.

The fork emulators are a good low dollar upgrade, but the fork is still an antique design, heavy, and has adequete brakes at best. For a little bit more money, some work and some smart shopping, you can easily adapt a modern inverted fork to your bike.

Here is a pic of my FXR with an inverted Showa fork from a a tube frame Buell. I have some money in this with custom rotors, caliper adapters, Brembo calipers and a hub, but I didn't need to do all this. If one kept to all oem stuff from whatever donor bike you use, it could be done really inexpensively. In my case the only thing I really needed to have made were the trees. The oem trees from the Buell and most sport bikes would have excessively shortened the trail. The are several companies that will make custom trees for maybe $500. A set of proper trees and a fork from a newer crotch rocket and you will have better front suspension (and brakes) than most any other Harley you will ever encounter on the road.

For the rear suspension, you could have a set made for the rear axle weight of your bike with you on it. Having shocks made does not cost much more than buying good off-the-rack shocks, you just have to wait a little while longer for them.

Max and others are very right about lower profile tires. I think all things being equal, 18" tires will handle better than 17" tires, but there are more tire choices in 17" as thats what most crotch rockets run. I also am a big fan of radial tires. Metz makes some good radials in in sizes appropriate for an un modified Harley frame with 18" wheels.

Finally, there is a good rake and trail calculator on the RB racing website. If you have a digital protractor, a plum bob, and a measuring tape you could take some measurements of your bike and plug them into the calculator and them play around with different shock and fork lengths.  Do some poking around on the crotch rocket websites for insight as to where rake and trail should be for quick steering.

Ed

[HogBag]

Ikon fork springs and shocks with a gearbox stabilizer brace. Maybe a fork brace to help with the high speed WA open speed limits. I found when my dyna's tyres got to 40% tread the rear started to wonder around on high speed sweepers.

[OZNOG]

In 2007 they went to a lower profile wider rear tire and the new frame that has one degree more rake. Chassis got the 43 mm forks.

Max


In 2006 didn't the FXD go to 49mm forks and 29* rake?

[Admiral Akbar]

I'm off a year and a few mm ..    Max

[sharkoilfield]

On a budget? Assuming mounts are good and chassis is all straight, you have the same fork tubes as a standard FXD, so no changing up there but how much do you weigh??? There are plenty of optional springs and a few different internal valves for your forks, as well as a few hundred fork braces. In back, I think you want about a 13" shock with rebound dampening; Progressive 418's are too stiff unless you're about 250 lbs...I've got radials on my FXDXT in addition to a few other items and the weave in a bumpy corner is all but gone; I don't think it could be gotten rid of completely when the whole rear wheel/swingarm/transmission/engine assembly floats around inside the frame on rubber biscuts...my Sputhe stuff helps but it's not gonna be a FXR in the handling department.

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[speedzter]

...I've got radials on my FXDXT in addition to a few other items and the weave in a bumpy corner is all but gone;

What size and brand of radials are you using ?

[dynaglide44]

re speedzter,
I tried ikon489 springs first, but they were much too hard, topping out everywhere. Then put on the triple rate 235mm  26/34/43 kg/cm then adjusted the damping to suit. Just about perfect on the centre preload solo, and the max preload two up. I can still get a weave at 90-odd on a sweeper, but the suspension it aint! Pity nobody does the mounts in a harder compound or with tighter lateral location....

[Admiral Akbar]

Clearly you have all confused me for a wealthy man! Perhaps I should have added best improvements for smallest financial outlay!

Not sure what rear shocks to use.. but find some 12.5 - 13 inchers... I'd probably go with Works as you can occasionally find them cheaper from Works..  Race tech emulators and springs.. Stay away from progressive springs..   Set the spring for the riders weight and  about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch sag.. You'll have the work the bike in the corners because of the rake but you'll have the ground clearance..

Here are the emulator kits.. Find a discount web guy that will get you one of these based on your weight..

Racetech kit with springs..
FLEKS3590 W/ .90 kg/mm spring 259.95
0416-0045 W/ .95 kg/mm spring 259.95

Works
FOR 94-05 FXD-CONV.
1310-0577 13” L (stock length) dual-rate 519.95

You'll need fork oil and seals.. Depending on mileage you may want bushings..

The only thing I'm not certain of is that you may want to try shorter rear shocks as the increased rake of the frame will make the front end lower..

re speedzter,
Then put on the triple rate 235mm  26/34/43 kg/cm then adjusted the damping to suit.

Are you sure those aren't pounds / inch?   They should be in the 8 to 9 kg/cm.. What you list are pretty stiff.. 

Max

[sharkoilfield]

...I've got radials on my FXDXT in addition to a few other items and the weave in a bumpy corner is all but gone;

What size and brand of radials are you using ?

The front is a 110/80 19inch and the rear a 160/60 18 Metzler Roadtec's...I was using Bridgestones but they no longer make a matching pair and the fronts cupped real quick if you didn't watch the pressure closely...

[sharkoilfield]

Turbobprop...that FXR is F'n wicked! Friend here has an aftermarket framed TC FXR I've gotta go have a close look at; I origionally wanted an FXR but ended up with an FXDXT...

[turboprop]

Turbobprop...that FXR is F'n wicked! Friend here has an aftermarket framed TC FXR I've gotta go have a close look at; I origionally wanted an FXR but ended up with an FXDXT...

Thanks for the kind words, what's funny is I wanted an FXDXT real bad and couldn't find one in good shape, ended up buying a used bagger last summer.