Dyno tuners...care to share some details of your set up?

[Sporty 48]

The wego III plugs into the data port and has a jumper that allows you to plug in the twinscan.  Just buy the kit for about $500.

Are Herko blocks required?
Don't the widebands bolt in in place of the narrow bands?

Mayor,
Do not think I would put my bike on that dyno as is. It would be cheaper to find a PRO. Those big twins are expensive I hear.

[strokerjlk]

Yes you can use a T/S without herko blocks. The sensors are 18 mm
The blocks work really nice for a dyno operator. BTW mayor will be running that dyno like a pro in a few weeks.
FWIW .....using herko blocks with 4-5 ft. Of 1/4 or 5/16 inch hose and no pump will work 99% of the time. The pump is just insurance   

[hrdtail78]

O2 is just sitting there not threaded in. It's an old junk one I use as a plug. The hole with the big nut is to adjust the flow.

[rbabos]

Yes you can use a T/S without herko blocks. The sensors are 18 mm
The blocks work really nice for a dyno operator. BTW mayor will be running that dyno like a pro in a few weeks.
FWIW .....using herko blocks with 4-5 ft. Of 1/4 or 5/16 inch hose and no pump will work 99% of the time. The pump is just insurance   

Is this from the exhaust gasses blowing past from the back pressure in the pipe?
Ron

[hrdtail78]

How accuate Jim's statement is depends on the biuld. IMO  Lets say you are doing a 2007 with a y-pipe.  You are not going to get the pressure in the pipe that is needed to push exhaust into the herko block and to the O2 sensor at idle.  Then you guys will be back at guessing.  25% throttle on up.  Sure the pump really isn't going to be doing that much.  I am sure we both have came to this by simply forgetting to turn on the pump.

[strokerjlk]

Yes you can use a T/S without herko blocks. The sensors are 18 mm
The blocks work really nice for a dyno operator. BTW mayor will be running that dyno like a pro in a few weeks.
FWIW .....using herko blocks with 4-5 ft. Of 1/4 or 5/16 inch hose and no pump will work 99% of the time. The pump is just insurance   

Is this from the exhaust gasses blowing past from the back pressure in the pipe?
Ron

Same thing as a sniffer setup with a pump.
Once you get a vacume going it works great

[wurk_truk]

Jim, do you use the old or new style DJ pump?

[Admiral Akbar]

Yea...like I just said, anything you want to do to improve your tuning costs you around $500. 

It will be the best 500.00 you spend. Better get two. 

heck, as cheap as they are..... maybe I should buy three.   

You wanna play,, you gotta pay.. 
Max

[johncr]

Well it was worth the wait, picked up the doors Saturday and was able to get them painted, stuffed, covered and installed this weekend.
Here are some photos of the door and how they were put together and mounted. Turned out nice and seal good. All that was tested today was turned the fans on and felt like good amount of air moving through the room.

Hopefully tomorrow run a bike and see how well it keeps the noise controlled.
If I'm still alive I'll report back, and then be looking to talk about fans since this dyno did not come with the Dynojet fan system.

Anyone know of a good (cost effective) way to test if the room would have too much negative pressure?

John

Front of doors unpainted


Back of doors unpainted


Door stuffed with Rockwool insulation


Doors painted and mounted


Doors complete

[rigidthumper]

AFAIK, and I'm FOS at times, you can take a MAP reading from the bike key on/engine off, with doors open and fans off.  Then take another reading with doors closed and fans on. If the system is working the way it's supposed to, the Barometric pressure shouldn't change. If the system has excessive vacuum, the Baro will read lower than actual, elevating your results (system believes you're dynoing in a hurricane). If the system is applying excess pressure, Baro will be higher than actual, reducing results.

[1FSTRK]

If the dyno stack, the bike intake and the bike exhaust are all in the same room I would think the readings would be fine regardless of the pressure in the room with the doors closed and the fans on. 

[hrdtail78]

If the dyno stack, the bike intake and the bike exhaust are all in the same room I would think the readings would be fine regardless of the pressure in the room with the doors closed and the fans on. 

If you are pumping more air in than out.  You can lower the altitude in the room.  This would be like having force induction.  Go the other way and raise the altitude.  Now you running in a less pressure and the bike will show down on power.  Closing the door is a good rule of thumb.  If it sucks shut.  You got more being sucked out.  If the door doesn't want to shut because of the pressure, well?

AFAIK, and I'm FOS at times, you can take a MAP reading from the bike key on/engine off, with doors open and fans off.  Then take another reading with doors closed and fans on. If the system is working the way it's supposed to, the Barometric pressure shouldn't change. If the system has excessive vacuum, the Baro will read lower than actual, elevating your results (system believes you're dynoing in a hurricane). If the system is applying excess pressure, Baro will be higher than actual, reducing results.

Sounds like a winner too me.

[johncr]

Got a little time in tonight.
Did the MAP test door open no fans to doors shut fans on and the MAP was the same, although when I close the doors they do suck shut a little. I think that is ok because other dyno rooms I have been in will do that.

I only ran the bike up to 3000 rpm 75% throttle (fullsac 2.5 cored CVO mufflers) and the reports from in my house standing at the screen door and the neighbor across the street outside was good, they had to listen close to hear what was going on.
I'm sure at WOT runs they will be able to hear but hopefully not much more than a loud lawn tractor.

John

[Durwood]

Is the exhaust ventilation working well?

[johncr]

Is the exhaust ventilation working well?

It seems to be, couldn't really smell any exhaust but I'm not banking on that. Next step is to get a carbon monoxide tester that will read parts per million to see where it's at. I do not have the hoses hooked up to the tail pipe area yet, just drawing straight from the room.

[1FSTRK]

If the dyno stack, the bike intake and the bike exhaust are all in the same room I would think the readings would be fine regardless of the pressure in the room with the doors closed and the fans on. 

If you are pumping more air in than out.  You can lower the altitude in the room.  This would be like having force induction.  Go the other way and raise the altitude.  Now you running in a less pressure and the bike will show down on power.  Closing the door is a good rule of thumb.  If it sucks shut.  You got more being sucked out.  If the door doesn't want to shut because of the pressure, well?

If you hook hoses to the ends of the exhaust pipes and vent the other end of the hoses to a different space outside the room then you can create a pressure difference between the two and therefore a difference between the engine intake and exhaust. Hoses hooked to the exhaust will also alter the tuned length as well as the exhaust pressure so they are generally a bad idea in the dyno room. As I said if the dyno sensor, the engine intake and exhaust, are all in the same room exposed to the same pressure all is fine.  A small difference in pressure between the inside and outside of the room is no different than having the weather change from a high to a low barometer. A well designed dyno cell will have the fresh air enter the front of the room, flowing the same direction it does when riding the bike and have the opening for the air to exit behind the bike taking the exhaust out with it.

[Admiral Akbar]

Something to think about..   When the motor is running full throttle.   The exhaust gases are about 5 - 10 time more exirting the motor then entering.. If the system / room  maintains the same inlet flow and outlet flow. Won't the room pressurize? Kind of a low efficiency turbo charger.    Almost need a 3rd vent to measure a flow difference between the outside and inside..

Max

[Geezer_Glider]

CO monitor is a very good idea that many overlook. Simple U tube manometer on the wall will give water pressure difference to the outside. One end in one out and about half full of water. Shouldn't want more than a few inches difference. Can easily figure pressure difference and/or altitude equivalence.
Just a thought,
R Meyer

[1FSTRK]

Something to think about..   When the motor is running full throttle.   The exhaust gases are about 5 - 10 time more exirting the motor then entering.. If the system / room  maintains the same inlet flow and outlet flow. Won't the room pressurize? Kind of a low efficiency turbo charger.    Almost need a 3rd vent to measure a flow difference between the outside and inside..

Max

If the room pressure rises it will be equal on the intake, exhaust pipe and the the dyno stack so it will record and correct the test at whatever the room pressure.

[wurk_truk]

Yep.  If the intake air is matched to the exhaust fans... and you do NOT enclose the exhaust pipes in the exhaust fan set up, it should all keep itself equalized.  Doc has an enclosed dyno room.  He uses 6-8" corrugated pipes (like from a duct cleaning truck) to pull exhaust out.  These sit close to the exhaust but in no way enclose the exhaust.  If the fans are balanced, so will be the room.  One can surely make a dyno room TOO air tight.  Let that intake air come in!  I don't feel having ANY suction on the doors is correct.  The doors should always operate in the same fashion as any door any where.  Another thing to do is make the intake opening rather large, the swap fans around to match things up.  The 'extra' volume in the duct will help balance it.

On problem I see in that Dyno in the basement is the intake air has to move quite a bit.  Shortest run as possible would be the best bet, IMHO.  AND... the largest intake piping I could install, too.

[Sporty 48]

Anyone know of a good (cost effective) way to test if the room would have too much negative pressure?

John

The one dyno I have been in was a trip. One minute it was full of mosquitoes, the next you could feel the air flowing by, like in a storm. No smell of exhaust, there was some heat from the motor but not much. The noise from fans, motorcycle and air flow was oppressive/impressive.
There was a second space like a big enclosed porch or entry way where the primary exhaust fans blew into that had large roof vents.
Dedicated fan on pipes.
Outside the chambers, it was unbelievably quiet.
Beans, Augusta, ME, I think he has cameras on all the time. Bigboyscycles.com or something like that.

[Admiral Akbar]

If the room pressure rises it will be equal on the intake, exhaust pipe and the the dyno stack so it will record and correct the test at whatever the room pressure.

You are assuming that the SW reads the barometric pressure during the run?? Do you know this for a fact??

Max

[1FSTRK]

If the room pressure rises it will be equal on the intake, exhaust pipe and the the dyno stack so it will record and correct the test at whatever the room pressure.

You are assuming that the SW reads the barometric pressure during the run?? Do you know this for a fact??

Max

I know for a fact that the dyno tuner I use has digital gauges on the screen that display temp, baro, and humidity and I have watched the numbers changing while we are talking and the dyno is just sitting there waiting. You could call dynojet and ask them if it samples during the run and how often.
I understand you are concerned about a pressure difference between the engine intake and exhaust.  But if they are open to the same space and that space has enough fresh air exchange to remove the exhaust fumes so that the motor does not run on exhaust then the motor will perform normally. Any baro pressure in the space has to be taken for the dyno to make its hp correction but it does not need to know how that pressure got there. The baro can go from 28.7 to 30.1 from day to day with a weather change so how is that different?

[Admiral Akbar]

I have watched the numbers changing while we are talking and the dyno is just sitting there waiting.

Well it would be interesting to see what those numbers do when the operator presses the run botton and the PC starts recording the run data..  Guys here with dynos should be able say easy.. I can check the next time I run a bike..

The baro can go from 28.7 to 30.1 from day to day with a weather change so how is that different?

The pressure in a closed system could change faster based on running motor?

Max

[johncr]

Any other dyno operators that have closed rooms, when you close the doors with the fans on does it pull the doors closed from some vacuum?

Got me thinking there could be more air pulled through the room if I open the inlet a little more.