Minor oil weep from front lifter block

[JC 92FXRS]

I've developed a small oil weep from the lower O-ring area on the front lifter block. I can't tell yet weather its the exhaust or intake pushrod tube. I've cleaned it all up and will run for a bit to have a good look. As I said, it's small enough to coat the lifter block but not run down anywhere. If it is an O-ring problem, can this be fixed by raising the pushrod cover, cleaning the area and reseating the O-ring...or am I just asking for a worse situation? The weep is not bad enough (I don't think) to pull the entire pushrod to replace the O-ring with a new one (or two if both are weeping). I know it sounds like I've asked and answered my own question...just wondering if anyone has done the repair without a full R&R...and been sucessful.
Cheers, Jeff
Oh...'92 FXR, 80" Evo, bone stock, motor has never been opened...35K mi, runs well and internally quiet.

[War Horse]

Sounds like time to get to work.... replace all the PR tube O-rings, good time to go with adjustable PR's. Just take bolt cutters and cut the old ones out. New tubes and PR's, done deal.

[JBarrettB]

Sure bust down the tubes and clean the o-rings in place, top and bottom. Clean out the seating areas too. Lube them up a little going back in. Nothing to loose I figure...
In a pinch I have in the past cut new o-rings not straight across but diagonally(like a long baloney cut) then slipped the cut o-ring around the push rod, super glued the o-ring back together, and slipped in into place.   

JB

[JC 92FXRS]

I will give the repair a try first, thanks for the info, sounds fairly straight-forward...would never have though of that super-glue trick though, wouldn't have thought it would hold. Regarding a R&R...any recommendations on adjustable pushrods? I know "adjustable" does not neccessarily mean "easy-out". And what about lifters?...might as well? are HD "B" lifters still around, if not what then?
Thanks gents for the replies.
Jeff

[War Horse]

Sure bust down the tubes and clean the o-rings in place, top and bottom. Clean out the seating areas too. Lube them up a little going back in. Nothing to loose I figure...
In a pinch I have in the past cut new o-rings not straight across but diagonally(like a long baloney cut) then slipped the cut o-ring around the push rod, super glued the o-ring back together, and slipped in into place.



Look guys , not wanting to sound rude but really now..... and from a man that got  "Just fix it right and be done with it" in his avatar sig. Well nuf said.

[JBarrettB]

...Sometimes creativity is all you've got when the goal is to roll, nuf said?   

JB

[War Horse]

...Sometimes creativity is all you've got when the goal is to roll, nuf said?   

JB

Agreed , in an emerency or short term, but its still not a proper fix. 

[JBarrettB]

I'd say that cleaning the o-rings, tubes, and seats is a proper fix, if it stops the leak.
The slice thing got me home from Kansas City one summer. Option being pay and wait, I rode home and fixed it right myself...

JB
 

[War Horse]

I'd say that cleaning the o-rings, tubes, and seats is a proper fix, if it stops the leak.
The slice thing got me home from Kansas City one summer. Option being pay and wait, I rode home and fixed it right myself...

JB

There ya go 

[Old Crow]

Horse.  I've got a whole entire kit to fab o-rings.  Not sure where Vince bought it, came with the shop inventory.
It came with about 6' each of 3 different sizes of "stock"(looks like long, rubber, spaghetti), a "fixture" to aid in getting clean cuts, a couple of razor blades and a tube of super glue.
I've even actually had it work a time or two.  The key, I believe, is patience with the super glue.

[War Horse]

Horse.  I've got a whole entire kit to fab o-rings.  Not sure where Vince bought it, came with the shop inventory.
It came with about 6' each of 3 different sizes of "stock"(looks like long, rubber, spaghetti), a "fixture" to aid in getting clean cuts, a couple of razor blades and a tube of super glue.
I've even actually had it work a time or two.  The key, I believe, is patience with the super glue.

Kind of reminds me of those glue together CV axle boots that came out 15-18 years ago, they would last a while but always split at the joint..... nothing like a new correct part if you can get it.

But understandably doing a emergency or on the road fix or even a fix to hold ya over till you get the right part, is par for the course. Done it myself many time and a few times had it bite me in the ass too.

[Grayrider]

When you do reinstall, if you go the cleaning way, coat the ring with dishsoap. It cleans, softens and expands the rubber and may be enough to get a seal. Even a small piece of debris can cause a  small oil leak.
Just another option.

[Old Crow]

Horse, I meant to imply that since I've had it work a time or 2 that there were several times it didn't work   
In fact, an emergency repair is all I'd try with it now.

Grayrider, great tip.  I use dish soap a lot when dealing with rubber parts while assembling the cars I work on.  Even radiator hoses and fuel lines.  On  o-rings I tend to use a drop of whatever liquid it holds back, oil, coolant, trans fluid, etc.  Those are usually closer than the bottle of dish soap. 

[ClassicRider2002]

"....'92 FXR, 80" Evo, bone stock, motor has never been opened...35K mi, runs well and internally quiet...."

Jeff~

Now that's a sad note, to have no issues but this small "weep"....

.....and as they say, a weep leads to a seep, and a seep leads to a leak.

I have a set of V~Thunder Adjustable Push Rods if anyone is interested, I purchased them for over $100.00 and would let them go for $60.00 inclusive of shipping anywhere in the 48 states of the continental USA.  They have 6,000 miles on them.  They are collecting dust, in my garage let's get them out of here....lol.

A new set of adjustable push rods would lead you to around $110.00 or more shipped.

The complex issue with an FXR is that any time you decide to go internally into your engine, it's a major pain, as you will have to remove your tank and front motor mount to allow access to the rear cylinder and it's internals, not to mention your carburetor has to be removed.

I like the superglue trick.....that is very clever!!!!  For a short term fix as was offered.

You have the original paper gaskets at the base gaskets Jeff.   Good for you that you have no other "weeps" or "leaks" at this point. 

It's a tough decision for sure.....whether to replace the OEM Push Rods with Adjustables....it's a 20 year old bike with 20 year old gaskets.  All starting with a Push Rod O~Ring.....

Give the MOUSE ANOTHER COOKIE~~~

Where will this story lead.....smiles.

It's like where do you start and end with your decisions about a 20 year old bike, with one small weep coming from a lifter block.

If you were to replace all the gaskets all the way down to the base gasket you would be spending close to $140.00 for all of the gaskets.  But that also means keeping your pistons in the cylinders and not reringing as well.  The labor alone would be probably 20 hours tear down/reinstall if doing yourself a first time, depending on how much you cleaned.  But could you really do this without doing a valve job, or etc....lol.....

A 35,000 mile engine....and a 20 year old bike.....

Where is the superglue!!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"